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#16 yvonne johnson

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Posted 09 December 2004 - 03:21 AM

Been to Venice twice and it's one of my favorite places on earth (what's new?). It'll be under soon--not in our lifetimes, I believe. I'd love to go there when it's snowing and there's snow underfoot. Snow does fall now and then.
It was not a new dish, as I recognised my tooth marks. Wilfrid

#17 Wilfrid1

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Posted 10 December 2004 - 02:29 PM

I haven't been since I was a child, but I still have vivid memories of St Mark's, the Doge's Palace, the Bridge of Sighs, and those little islands where they make wacky souvenirs out of glass.
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#18 Robert Schonfeld

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Posted 10 December 2004 - 02:32 PM

Been to Venice twice and it's one of my favorite places on earth (what's new?). It'll be under soon--not in our lifetimes, I believe. I'd love to go there when it's snowing and there's snow underfoot. Snow does fall now and then.

We've visited Venice many times in every season but winter, so this year we are going in February. Much looking forward to it.
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#19 Miguel Gierbolini

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Posted 14 January 2005 - 12:34 AM

It'll be under soon

Check This:Venice water at record lows.

I wonder what this looks like . . .
"I mispoke."

#20 macrosan

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Posted 14 January 2005 - 03:28 PM

Venice water at record lows

Ah, the syzygy, the syzygy. I always said that a word spelled like that would get us into trouble one day :rolleyes:

After several false starts in the last few months, we've finally booked a return to the City of Mud Flats in June. I plan to walk from the airport into town ;) Now I have a few new eating recommendations, we're going for six days to make sure we get to all of them ;)

#21 Guest_Adam_*

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Posted 19 February 2005 - 08:41 AM

A text message from some friends in Venice.

"Alle testeiere is fab. your internet buddies deserve a big slap on the back. Why can't we eat like this in endinburgh?"

So consider yourselves slapped. :blush:

#22 Ore

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Posted 19 February 2005 - 09:14 AM

I have been to Venice a few timnes already - I can't get over how touristy the place is. It is the only place I have seen in Italy where the restaurant will serve a sauceless spaghetti with a huge scoop of tomato sauce on top - just what tourists unknowingly think real pasta is like.

When I am in Venice, I eat burger king - only after an over priced drink at Harry's Bar, and some carpaccio!

I am sure it isn't so bad if you are there with a loved one, I have been with friends - so the romantic side was not there for me, and I am sure there are a few decent places to eat - just my .02 Euro cents!

Ore

#23 Kikujiro

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Posted 19 February 2005 - 09:56 AM

Well, it is a city that lives entirely on tourism, so no surprise so much of the food is rubbish. But you can eat very well if you make an effort.
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#24 Miguel Gierbolini

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Posted 19 February 2005 - 03:38 PM

Without going to any of the usual suspects, Alla Testiere and others, I ate fine here and there. You know we walked so much and were so famished that the cardboard with sauce pizza tasted exquisite. But seriously, paninis and other sandwiches at bars were really fine. Some where even pretty good, the thing is that once you stumble into one of these places you need to mark your map ---else you are never going to find it again.
"I mispoke."

#25 Robert Schonfeld

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Posted 07 March 2005 - 04:01 PM

The best meal we had in Venice on this trip was at Alle Testiere. In addition to the elsewhere-mentioned razor clams, there was a warm salad of baby octopus, and maybe the single best fish I have ever eaten, a small branzino. The waiter pointed out the spot from which it had been taken on a map of local waters that hangs on one wall of the restaurant. It was roasted and served plain, not even any oil or pepper. It tasted of pure, clean, subtle, delectable fish. The texture was perfect. It yielded gently in the mouth, unlike a less carefully cooked example we had elsewhere, the flesh of which had seized up some, which made for a very different experience in the eating. We drank an exceptional house soave.

Alla Furatola changed hands about ten years ago. It was good, but not what it once was. One of the original owners has opened a very modest, intriguing place about 50 steps away. I wrote the name down, but my hands were so cold that now I can't read it. It's on the other side of the street easy enough to find, dinner only.

Da Fiore, once believed by some to be among the best restaurants in Italy, seems to be enjoying its fame, and somewhat resting on its laurels. Most disappointing was the signature fritto misto, which was mostly rings of calamari, with a few other things thrown in, resting in an inedible basket of fried angels' hair pasta. Not very interesting, let alone compelling. I don't remember the price, but it was expensive. This was in very stark contrast to the fried spaghetti used by Masimillio Alaimo to cage a perfect shrimp on a skewer (and resting in a pool of brilliant green lettuce puree) at Le Calandre the next night (post to come).

Best coffee, and a fun atmosphere, was at the Bar Ducale, between the Campo del Giglio and the Campo St. Moise.

At several places, we had a variety of grilled crustaceans, most of them with unpronounceable Venetian names, almost all of them sweet and delicious. Our Venetian friends counseled us that much fish and shellfish in Venice is imported and/or farmed, in order to service the massive demand from tourists. We saw Manilla clams in a number of places. Unless you go to a place like Testiere, which is rigorous about its sourcing, be forewarned.
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#26 macrosan

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Posted 29 June 2005 - 10:51 PM

Second trip to Venice, this time for a longer six days, and I'm even more in love with the place :( Somehow, despite all the best culinary intentions, when we're there the meals seem to wane in their importance, and so we never got to the two places at the top of my list --- Alle Testiere and da Fiore. Both of these are closed on Sunday and Monday, which was very inconvenient in our programme. Or maybe I'm stochastically missing them out so as to ensure I need to return another time :( Anyway, here's some information on a few meals, and a few misses.

Find of the week was Locanda Montin in Fondamenta di Borgo, Dorsaduro. It's on the east side of the canal, distinguishable by the old-fashioned wall lantern outside. You walk through a dim and dreary looking restaurant into an amazing garden covered by arched trellises with entwined foliage. On a bright, warm evening the garden was shaded and cool, and the atmosphere was wonderful. There must be seating for over 100 people, and the tables are well spaced.

Service was friendly, formal, almost casual but efficient. The food was excellent. I had spaghetti al pomodoro to start (perfect al dente pasta with a light and pleasantly herbed tomato sauce) and a wonderful dish of fried baby sole to follow. Finished with crepes with ice cream, which was ordinary but fine. A half carafe of house white wine was what they euphemistically call "lively", or frizzante, in other words just about the right side of drinkable :) Mrs Macro had excellent warm asparagus, then a superb grilled bream. The whole bill including tip was 88 euros.

The garden is a huge asset at this place, and I suspect our experience would have been less enjoyable inside.

On another evening, after spending time shopping near Rialto, I tried to find Sole sulla Vecia Cavana which has been recommended. I was working off a map printed off their website, and still couldn't find it. One local had never heard of it, and another gave me wrong directions. After fifteen minutes , Mrs Macro was getting rather cross with me :D I really can't think of any other set of circumstances which would persuade me to sit at a street table of a restaurant by the name of da Bepi but that's exactly what we did, because we were there, and Mrs Macro wanted to eat.

Service was casual to the point of farce, but the food was terrific. Vegetable soup for me, grissini for Mrs M (excellent grissini, by the way). Then we shared a roasted sea bass with potatoes which was sublime. It was brought to the table in an aluminium roasting tray covered with aluminium foil, and "carved" and distributed at the table, in a manner I can only describe as "brusque". The waiter kept asking the couple at the next table to move their wine, and even their table, to give him room to serve :( But what flavour the fish had !! Half a bottle of very good chianti, and wonderful espresso, and the whole thing came to 70 euros.

A good, competent place was Ristorante San Stefano in the far north east corner of the Campo of the same name, on the east side of Accademia Bridge. Consistent and competent food, pleasant service, reasonably priced. It's very handy if you're going to one of the almost daily concerts in the Chiesa di San Vidal nearby. More important, it is directly opposite Gelateria Paolin S Stefano which now has my nomination for definitely the best ice cream in Venice by a margin. Crisp, bright flavours, and perfect texture for both ice creams and sorbets. I tried it three times, and did a direct comparison with two tries at Nico's. No contest.

One restaurant to avoid is Ristorante San Trovaso in Dorsoduro, which looked great from the outside, but provided the worst service and the worst food I have experienced for many years. Dismally bad.

And an update on Fiaschetteria Toscana, my favourite from last year. Shock horror, they have either sold or otherwise lost their small garden opposite the restaurant, which has been replaced by two tacky souvenir kiosks. What a shame ! We went there for lunch, but decided we didn't want to sit inside on such a beautiful day.

As before, I generally found the food in Venice to be reliably good, and not over-priced. The fish is wonderfully fresh and varied. But most of all, the restaurants seem to be happy, relalxd places to spend some time eating good food.

#27 Robert Schonfeld

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Posted 29 June 2005 - 11:13 PM

Thanks for the report, Macro. Venice updates are always useful.

Montin is one of the oldest restaurants in Venice. It's often referred to as an artists' hangout, but since I don't know what artists look like, I'm not sure I've ever seen any there. The garden is wonderful. People always seem surprised to have eaten well there.
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#28 macrosan

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Posted 29 June 2005 - 11:19 PM

Montin is one of the oldest restaurants in Venice. It's often referred to as an artists' hangout, but since I don't know what artists look like, I'm not sure I've ever seen any there. The garden is wonderful. People always seem surprised to have eaten well there.

Strange you should say that, Robert :D The place was recommended by our concierge. When we looked into the restaurant, it looked so dreary we nearly decided to turn round and look elsewhere. But Marco had said it was good, so we went in. As we walked into the garden, I said to Mrs M "Looks great, doesn't it ? Don't expect too much from the food" :) Actually she replied "That'sOK, we can just sit and enjoy the garden".

I suppose one assumes that with that garden, they'll get customers anyway, so they don't have to worry about the food. Happily not so in this case.

Incidentally, I discovered later that Montin is mentioned in my Links guide book.Links.

#29 Lost Virtue

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Posted 30 June 2005 - 06:40 AM

You'll have to give me some more insight into Venice when we meet in London. Mrs. LV and I will be going to Venice in October after 10 days in Paris. It's been 23 years since my last stop in Venice.

#30 Kikujiro

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Posted 30 June 2005 - 09:33 AM

And an update on Fiaschetteria Toscana, my favourite from last year. Shock horror, they have either sold or otherwise lost their small garden opposite the restaurant

Their what? :( :D :( :)
Same shit, different login. [-- Omni]