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#31 macrosan

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Posted 30 June 2005 - 02:10 PM

And an update on Fiaschetteria Toscana, my favourite from last year. Shock horror, they have either sold or otherwise lost their small garden opposite the restaurant

Their what? :( :D :( :)

They had an enclosed area outside the front door, across the pavement, with a railing around it and foliage growing up and over the railings, and an old well head in the middle. There were about ten tables there. Well it is no more.

#32 Kikujiro

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Posted 30 June 2005 - 03:04 PM

You know, I've been to FT almost yearly for, oh, 10+ years, and never saw that. Of course, that doesn't mean it wasn't there.
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#33 Paul Bell

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Posted 01 July 2005 - 07:22 AM

It was definitely there, there was always one of those paper/magazine/lotto huts in front of it and I can only recall seeing tables laid up once or twice. Never bothered eating out there, felt too much like eating in the street.

Paul

#34 macrosan

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Posted 01 July 2005 - 09:38 PM

You know, I've been to FT almost yearly for, oh, 10+ years, and never saw that. Of course, that doesn't mean it wasn't there.

:( :(

Actually, Paul, it didn't feel like eating in the street, it was like being in a small garden. When we had lunch there, they had the full complement of staff working out there, and I asumed it was the preferred area on a nice day.

#35 CenoErgoSum

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Posted 30 November 2005 - 02:42 PM

Just back from 10 days in Italy (Venice, Florence, Rome).

I posted a more thorough review on my blog, but here is the quick and dirty version of Venice - I will post the other cities under the appropriate threads:

Alle Testiere - Head and shoulders above the rest. This place is on a different level - not just for Venice, but also for much of what we saw in Florence and Rome as well. We shared Raw scampi, razor clams, pumpkin gnocchi, seared tuna and a cheese course.

Fiaschetteria Toscana - Very good as well. Extraordinarily fresh fish and truly gifted with the fryers. We shared Taglioloni al Tartufo, Monkfish, Serenisima and an apple tart.

Trattoria alla Madonna - A little bit of a letdown, but very good "locals" feeling place close to the Rialto. We shared gnocchi and a spaghetti with black squid, which were excellent, but let the waiter talk us into an egg battered John Dory that was fair at best.

Other highlights:

VizioVirtu - Amazing chocolate shop in the Dorsoduro. Their "hot chocolate" is to die for.

Enoteca Mascareta - Very lively wine bar (watch out for flying corks and champagne sabres). This is an excellent spot to grab a drink before dinner at Alle Testiere.

#36 Lost Virtue

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Posted 04 December 2005 - 02:02 AM

I did not eat at Testiere on my recent trip to Venice, but I did have a terrific meal at Toscana. The gnocchi with radicchio was excellent. The Chianina filet steak had as good a flavor as any steak I've ever eaten. While the sides and garnishes lacked a bit of finesse, the overall meal was very fine. We washed it all down with 01 Dal Forno Valpolicella, which rocked.

Other excellent meals were at Al Paradiso (amazing, impeccable crudo), Al Covo, and a lunch at Diavolo in Torcello.

#37 ngatti

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Posted 28 December 2005 - 10:15 PM

MF is great. Certainly as it now seems that Venice is beginning to edge out Paris.
yer 'avin' a larf, mate

#38 ngatti

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Posted 30 December 2005 - 05:27 AM

Official.

We're off on the road to Venice.
yer 'avin' a larf, mate

#39 ngatti

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Posted 30 December 2005 - 07:18 PM

Do any members have experience with the "Venice Card", pro or con.

Thanks
yer 'avin' a larf, mate

#40 ngatti

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Posted 19 January 2006 - 03:24 PM

We arrived at Marco Polo and took the 3e AVTO express bus to Piazzale Roma. from there we took the #1 vaporetto which traverses the Grand Canal as a local (81/82 is the express) and which afforded my first time visitor daughter with a good visual soak up of Venice. This a long ride (about 40 minutes) so if time is dear, take the 41/42

It is very possible to have a wonderful time and eat well on forty-fifty euros a day. Combo museum tickets(11e and 8e) a junior three day rolling Venice card for my daughter(18e) and a three day ACTV pass (22e) for me and we were set. All of this purchased at the "I" local tourist office. Good advice, maps, and suggestions can be found here. Very welcoming and polite staff.

Our hotel, the twenty room Ca' Formenta (currently the fourth most popular Venetian hotel on Tripadvisor.com) was neat and clean (if small) and at 86 euros a night was a gobsmackingly good value and an incredible find. A bounteous and very fresh continental breakfast put out everyday was included in the rate! About 50 yards from the Arsenale vaporetti stop at the head of the Via Garibaldi.

Testiere is closed this time of year, but we found it.

La Zucca was a find for us. We stumbled upon it and stayed for lunch. Pumpkin soup, Taglietelle with gorgonzola and pignoli, Fegato veneziana with polenta, a ltr of water, a coke light and a quartino of red wine--39e

Alla Rivetta was a fun restaurant that is given to waiting lines. The bar is filled with loud locals and the restaurant is given to a mix of tourists and locals. Crowded and fun, we ate here twice. A not greasy fritto misto wth anchovy, shrimp and calamari, a gnocchi pomodoro, a sarde in soar (delicious) a coke and a quartino of tap soave (41e). On another night we had the fritto again with a tortellini en brodo and a contorni of fritto verdurine. Lightly fried zukes, eggplant, carrot and peppers. Delicious! Add a coke and a quartino of cab franc from the tap and this came to 39e.

Da Pinto, across from the fish market was another rest we visited twice. One meal was fried calamari, a salad of arugula and canned tuna, and a plate of grilled sardines along with wine, water, and coke came to 38e.
Another meal of mixed cold fish (sarde in soar, octopus, baccalau manteca, shrimp, and some type of large white crustaceon that I didn't recognize and the waiter couldn't translate. All very good. I had another side of sarde in soar (I love this dish) and some squid in it's ink with grilled polenta. My daughter had a reference point pizza. I thought it was going to be shit, but it was as close to a 'Rockaway' pizza as I can remember. Surprisingly good. With wine, water, bread and coke, about 44e.

One of the best meals of the trip was at Dalla Mura on the island of Murano. My daughter had a Mozzarella di Buffala which was heaven. Even the tomatoes weren't that bad. I had a Spaghetti marinara. this octopus, shrimp, mussels, squid, and whole baby cuttlefish. Some wine, water, bread and a coke and it was less than 35e. Macrosan is right. There is something about the quality and cooking of the pasta here that I can't find in the states.

On Burano we stopped in a working mans bar for coffee and pannino (8e). What a pretty island. Every one talking exicetdly whilst tating the days wine proffer from the proprietor. Most workman in for a mid-day spritz (white wine, soda and campari).

The restaurants on Torcello are closed from Jan 12th till february. Such was our luck. Worth the trip though. The mosaics in the 12th century cathedral arewell worth the hour it takes to get here.

I had an outstanding penne with gorgonzola and pumpkin at La Columbina wine bar. My daughter had four cichetti that I had picked out (a coupla crostini, a coupla pannini--mortadella and pancetta). A spritz and a coke came to 19e.

We ate pizza on the street at about 2,30e or so as well as a couple of good cones of gelato. These run from 80c to 1e for a piccolo. I warn you that he so-called 'piccolo' are very generously portioned.

The Museo Correr was nice, L'Accadamme a treat, but the decorated rooms of the Doge's Palace were jaw-droppingly, arrestingly beautiful. A tour of the prisons as we crossed the Bridge of Sighs was thought-provoking. The mosaics in St Marks Cathedral awe inspiring.

Be sure to walk to the ghetto. It's a short walk from the Calle Nova in Cannareggio. The word itself (ghetto) comes from this area. A couple of good looking restaurants here that we didn't try. Gam Gam being one serving kosher Israeli food.

The fish and vegetable markets nearby the Rialto are pretty much setup and good to go by 8AM. I arrived at 6AM to watch them set up. A worthwhile thing to do. The fish guys are amazing. BTW, Yes. Most fish looks like it comes from elsewhere. It all seems to be packed in styrofoam shipping containers.

Notes:
The public bus (#5) from Marco Polo Airport to Piazzale Roma costs 1,30e and contain luggage racks. It's quick, comfortable and runs often.

We found the 72 hour ACTV passes an indispensibly great bargain.

Walk, walk and keep walking. We walked through all of the sestieri.
Around every turn was something interesting. It is such a remarkable city. Of course my daughter announced her intention to live here for a time during her academic career. :wub:

I hope this post is helpful.

thanks for listening.
yer 'avin' a larf, mate

#41 Lippy

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Posted 19 January 2006 - 04:12 PM

I hope you can post some pictures, Nick.

What was the weather like?

#42 Robert Schonfeld

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Posted 19 January 2006 - 04:22 PM

Nick, it sounds as if you put one over on a normally very expensive town. It also sounds as if you ate well without crossing the threshhold of any of the "name" places.

What did you do on Murano? Did you get to see San Donato?

Smart daughter. A better choice than Florence, imho.
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#43 ngatti

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Posted 19 January 2006 - 04:50 PM

Nick, it sounds as if you put one over on a normally very expensive town. It also sounds as if you ate well without crossing the threshhold of any of the "name" places.

What did you do on Murano? Did you get to see San Donato?

Smart daughter. A better choice than Florence, imho.

re Murano: we arrived late at the Faro stop next to the lighthouse. We strolled the shops and ate lunch and returned.

The day started out as a trip to Torcello. We wound up strolling around Burano (along with a glut of off season tourists) and getting off at Murano was a last minute, "well, we're here, so we might as well..." type of decision.

I will spend more time here on my next trip. I was under the mistaken impression that Murano was an overarchingly tourist destination. Not true. It is interesting and some very accomplished artisans make beautiful works on display at the shops. Sure, there are some junk souvenier shops, but there are also some beautiful galleries.

I'm also going to make sure that I explore the churches on the next trip. We did very little of it, this time 'round. It needs to be remedied. :wub:

It was my mistake and I'll fix it on the next trip. May has still never been, so I'm sure to be back.
yer 'avin' a larf, mate

#44 Rail Paul

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Posted 19 January 2006 - 04:57 PM

This sounds like a great trip, Nick.

Thanks for sharing the details.
Dreams come in all sizes, shapes, and colors.

#45 ngatti

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Posted 19 January 2006 - 07:31 PM

I hope you can post some pictures, Nick.

What was the weather like?

Arriving at 11AM we were met with a balmy and sunny 50F. It was like that on Friday also, though cold in the morning. It cooled a bit on Saturday, maybe no higher than 42F. Sunday it stayed cold, not getting much above freezing. Though it stayed sunny with a bit of a breeze.

I have pics on the camera. I'll try and get them up.

Hmmm. My old 'puter is USB 1. The camera is USB 2. Wonder if the camera is backwards compatible?
yer 'avin' a larf, mate