if not, here's a start - a whirlwind 22 hours in the city from the moment we got dropped off at the hotel until we headed for the airport again... we did well, i think, considering the seer size of the city - we walked around Centro Historico, Coyoacan and Condesa, managing 3 meals, post-prandial drinks and a marriage proposal
Frida Kahlo's house and Templo Mayor as well. the Majestic, a nice hotel with great location right on the Zocalo, alas with a caveat - you either get a view or sleep, can't get both. guess which one we got
the view of the entire Zocalo was amazing but there was an all-night construction going on on top of the hotel, garbage trucks, etc. you hear every noise and sound. and then, from 7:30 to 8am, there was some military music and marching practice with drums and trumpets right outside our windows. but., at least it got us out of bed pronto.since we weren't sure what time we'd be able to get to a restaurant for comida, we figured it would be easiest to go somewhere in the area. a chef friend recommended El Cardenal across from Alameda and it was great. traditional food in modern surroundings (it's in the Sheraton Centro Historico), extremely fast and efficient service. first inkling that what's considered "small" in Mexico is really a rather sizeable portion. We were all over the escamoles (ant eggs) with epazote they're known for and they were DELICIOUS. came in a ceramic dish (photos will follow when i get to them) - everyhting that came in that hot ceramic dish was fantastic. we also had flor de maguey with escamoles, albondigas (meatballs with eggs) with chipotle sauce, some terrific sizzling shrimp in garlic with nopales and cheese topped with squash blossoms. very good Mexican wine - Casa Madero chardonnay, mercifully little oak, and also the same producer's cab.
seriously stuffed, we headed to Frida Kahlo's house in Coyoacan - gorgeous courtyard, interesting pieces in the house and a great studio. we walked around and later took the metrobus to Condesa, where we hoped we'd have some tacos and walk around some more. no room for tacos, but lots of walking around, it's a great area.
we planned on having drinks at Prima, which was recommended for their cocktails but it was turned into another restaurnat with no cocktails to speak of and a little crazy decor (silver xmas trees). Instead, we walked some more and then headed to Izote for dinner. The restaurant's moder bistro feel was relaxing, again, very efficient and fast service. The food was pretty good but i was terribly disappointed that their signature chile with foie gras is no longer on the menu. we tried some less exciting Mexican wines and tried to work up some appetite. the shredded venison with achiote was very good, squash blossom and epazote quesadillas nice and of the trio of seviches, the deliciously light and citrusy red snapper was a favorite. the scallop with soy was also very good but the Acapulco-style one was too dense and too sweet for us. Huitlacoche lasagna was creamy, cheesy rich. oh, and there was a welcome from the kitchen - lovely little gorditas with cheese.
after dinner drink at La Opera (old school and very atmospheric) - an ok margarita and good vampiro - and more walking
after our morning wakeup call, we got some wonderful fresh juices and explored the neighborhood some more (there is a gorgeous tile building, an outdoor exhibit of Juan Soriano's sculptures), also visiting Templo Mayor.
a quick snack before leaving at Cafe Tacuba, a Mexico City's Angelina of sorts (less dainty though and chocolate not as thick or strong). very good eggs with beans and more and excellent churros. also tried a plate of 4 little things - a very good chicken tamal, taco, enchilada and rice.
back to the hotel to pick up bags (a taxi driver rally in the zocalo - filled with cars), and off to Oaxaca.
