So I went to see the great revival of A Walk Worth Taking -- a 60s pop opera originally put on at the famous alternative theater the Semafor -- at the National Theater. (It's such a huge hit it's still playing more than a year after it's debut in the stagione here. They should tour it.) This presented an opportunity to revisit Cerny Kohout, and to try to rectify my previous ordering mistake.
I opened this time with a salmon pate with crabmeat, served alongside a cod liver emulsion (yes: they are making food out of the most famously distateful item in world gastronomy!). This seemed as far away from traditional Czech cuisine as possible, since only William Shakespeare and possibly OTB would think a fish like salmon would be native to the Czech Republic. It was a good dish (don't tell my mother, but I loved that cod liver emulsion!). But still in the rather amateurish, unslick, "New Brooklyn" style I had noted in my first visit.
Then, on to something described as larded carp. (Carp, unlike salmon, is WAY native here.) As far as I can tell, larded meant rolled with slices of Prague Ham. Since you can barely get a piece of fish that isn't served with a pork product in New York these days, I felt right at home. Another good dish, also in the unslick, slightly amateurish style.
I guess I think this is a good place -- I'd be happy to return yet again -- but not great. Again like the "New Brooklyn" restaurants, if it were somewhere else, with a lot of better restaurants, people wouldn't get as excited about it.
Are you home yet?