Josh Ozersky has a delicious take-down
of Platt and his dumb review. This cannot have been easy for Ozersky, because his job is about relationships, and he seldom rats on the people who give him access. Here he had to choose between his friend Michael White and his friend Adam Platt, and he decided to throw Platt under the bus.
Everything Ozersky says about Platt is entirely correct, although it is long overdue. Platt has been an embarrassment from the day he arrived:
A critic is in a difficult position; take it from me, I used to be one. You can’t just write about how peas taste every week. You need to come up with a story, a moral, an overarching narrative. Frank Bruni comes up with a different one each week, creating sociological sketches out of the dining scene. Platt has the same one every week, blowing taps for the great restaurant tradition of the past.
Ozersky is giving Bruni a tad more credit than he deserves. Some of his review memes are awfully contrived, and he too is no fan of traditional luxury dining. But Bruni at least is able to recognize these places when they are done right (e.g.
, Corton), a talent Platt has not mastered.
I have to admit that I don't think Marea is the second coming of Le Bernardin (my blog review here
), so in some ways I am sympathetic to Platt's conclusion, if not the way in which he reaches it.