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#4846 Sneakeater

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Posted 10 December 2018 - 05:13 AM

I decided to roast the remaining piece of this wild boar striploin whole rather than cut it into steaks and pan-sear it.  If nothing else, I thought, that would counteract my culturally ingrained urge to overcook it.

 

What that disregarded was the initial browning.  Which I did too much of.  So I STILL overcooked it.  A little, anyway.

 

I made a mustard/shallot/cream/blood sauce for it.  This was good.  No, this was VERY good.  On the side, the rest of the escarole-and-Marcella-beans.  Beans only get better with age (even if escarole doesn't).

 

I went with the easy, reflexive pairing.

 

2012 Poderi Sanguineto I e II Rosso de Montepulciano

 

My last bottle of this favorite wine (don't worry:  I got a bunch of the current vintage).

 

Tuscan Sangioveses are the universal first choice for boar, for all kinds of good reasons, based on both flavor and culture.  Poderi Sanguineto is a particular apt choice, as winemaker Dora Forsini is an avid hunter.  You just know SHE drinks her wine with wild boar.  All the time.  (If I'm not mistaken, the wine documentary in which she appears shows her skinning a boar -- in some detail at some length.)

 

The last bottle I drank of this vintage was slightly flawed, seeming as if it had gotten over it.  Those problems did not infect this bottle, so my 2012 stash is going out with a bang.

 

This wine does in fact what natural wines are all supposed to do in theory.  Incredibly focused fruit, coupled with with the funky directness that non-interventionist winemaking effectuates.  That last bottle, the fruit seemed faded.  But this bottle, the fruit just pops out in your face (which happened the first time I drank this wine, at a wine dinner at Franny's soon after release [accompanying a screening of that documentary], when I fell for this wine hard).  But (I'm repeating myself here) it's not thick jammy fruit; it's not even fruity fruit.  It's just fruit.  With the layers of muck that follow, it's not profound or anything -- it's just not frivolous.  And amazingly, lip-smackingly delicious.


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#4847 Sneakeater

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Posted 10 December 2018 - 05:16 AM

I mean, I already knew I loved this wine.  But I have to say, I REALLY love it.


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#4848 Sneakeater

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Posted 12 December 2018 - 06:48 AM

Rocchetti with swordfish, ceci, raisins, pine nuts, anchovies, chili, and garlic.  And ricotta salata (they don't put cheese on fish in the North -- but they sure do in the South, whose cuisine this dish evokes).  Sautéed escarole on the side.

 

2016 Brunori Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore "San Nicoló"

 

Hmmmmm.  This wine comes from where they wouldn't put cheese on fish:  the Marche.  But it sure goes nicely with swordfish.

 

I'm tasting mainly pineapple, of all things.  Lots of minerals backing it up, and really sharp acid.

 

Not dull, not simplistic.  And not bad with the pasta.

 

(The "Superiore" designation, unfortunately, only means that this wine has more alcohol than the normal run.)


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#4849 Sneakeater

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Posted 13 December 2018 - 03:46 AM

More freezer diving!  (Making room for some stuff coming in.)  This is fun!

 

I wasn't sure what this item was.  It looked like some sort of stew, with lima beans.  I decided to try the old treat-leftover-stew-as-ragu gambit.  So I had it over gigli.  It turned out to be something like brisket.  On the side, sautéed, some highly touted (by the purveyor) Asian greens (which actually sort of deserved the praise).

 

Meals like this are so easy to make I almost feel guilty.  In any event, if any dinner called for the old elevate-leftovers-by-wildly-overmatching-them-with-wine trick, it was this one.

 

2001 Beronia Rioja Gran Reserva

 

My estimation was that no matter what this stew turned out to be, Rioja would go with it.

 

OK, a Modern Rioja:  let's all jeer.  Boo Modern Rioja!  And, being Modern, it wasn't made to age this long.

 

But really, it was fine.   Quite good, even.  Fading cherry fruit at the front, then Old Wine Muck following it down.  No energy, no sparkle.  But no real depth, either.  Still, a pleasurable experience (maybe even more pleasurable than when this Modern wine was more prepossessing).  That fading cherry fruit is really pretty nice.


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#4850 Sneakeater

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Posted 13 December 2018 - 03:54 AM

Lots of acid, I should note.


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#4851 Sneakeater

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Posted 13 December 2018 - 04:13 AM

You know what my problem was?  This dinner took so little time to prepare that I didn't give the wine an adequate decant.

 

Now that it's opening, it's actually really really good.  (If Modern.)  (But age takes care of a lot of that.)


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