I decided to roast the remaining piece of this wild boar striploin whole rather than cut it into steaks and pan-sear it. If nothing else, I thought, that would counteract my culturally ingrained urge to overcook it.
What that disregarded was the initial browning. Which I did too much of. So I STILL overcooked it. A little, anyway.
I made a mustard/shallot/cream/blood sauce for it. This was good. No, this was VERY good. On the side, the rest of the escarole-and-Marcella-beans. Beans only get better with age (even if escarole doesn't).
I went with the easy, reflexive pairing.
2012 Poderi Sanguineto I e II Rosso de Montepulciano
My last bottle of this favorite wine (don't worry: I got a bunch of the current vintage).
Tuscan Sangioveses are the universal first choice for boar, for all kinds of good reasons, based on both flavor and culture. Poderi Sanguineto is a particular apt choice, as winemaker Dora Forsini is an avid hunter. You just know SHE drinks her wine with wild boar. All the time. (If I'm not mistaken, the wine documentary in which she appears shows her skinning a boar -- in some detail at some length.)
The last bottle I drank of this vintage was slightly flawed, seeming as if it had gotten over it. Those problems did not infect this bottle, so my 2012 stash is going out with a bang.
This wine does in fact what natural wines are all supposed to do in theory. Incredibly focused fruit, coupled with with the funky directness that non-interventionist winemaking effectuates. That last bottle, the fruit seemed faded. But this bottle, the fruit just pops out in your face (which happened the first time I drank this wine, at a wine dinner at Franny's soon after release [accompanying a screening of that documentary], when I fell for this wine hard). But (I'm repeating myself here) it's not thick jammy fruit; it's not even fruity fruit. It's just fruit. With the layers of muck that follow, it's not profound or anything -- it's just not frivolous. And amazingly, lip-smackingly delicious.