138 replies to this topic

[Suzanne F]

Two stars from Eric Asimov. Who spends far more time on the food and wine than on any supposedly inherent colonial boot heels evidenced in the decor, which he merely (and rightly) sums up as "Ah well, high concept meets low budget."

And who confirms my high opinion of several of the dishes (not that I needed the confirmation ). A very positive and informative review.

[irnscrabblechf52]

Two stars from Eric Asimov. Who spends far more time on the food and wine than on any supposedly inherent colonial boot heels evidenced in the decor, which he merely (and rightly) sums up as "Ah well, high concept meets low budget."

And who confirms my high opinion of several of the dishes (not that I needed the confirmation ). A very positive and informative review.

[Sneakeater]

I walked into R&B last night in all innocence after a show at LPR. Tom Cregan came over and asked me how I was, but he seemed preoccupied during that conversation. Finally, he poured me a flute of champagne (well, maybe it was sparkling vouvray) and told me about the Times review. (He said they were hoping for three stars -- which, if true, shows that Tom has as little understanding of what the stars mean as most people.)

It's very dangerous to be in a wine-oriented restaurant when they're celebrating.

[Wilfrid]

I admit, I thought a strong one star review and the attention it generates was a reasonable hope. I am pleased for them.

[Sneakeater]

I should add that Tom Cregan told me was trying to decide whether or not to post the Times review outside the restaurant.

I told him that he should -- but only if he posts the Spectator review next to it.

[irnscrabblechf52]

I should add that Tom Cregan told me was trying to decide whether or not to post the Times review outside the restaurant.

I told him that he should -- but only if he posts the Spectator review next to it.

eh he could just blurb them. no shame in that.

i actually want to go back soon and try "Sizzling Pork Fat Grated Daikon, Soy Jus"

[nuxvomica]

"Sizzling Pork Fat Grated Daikon, Soy Jus" is, apparently, a block of fat that's fried, the dikon and soy can be combined into a sauce, iirc the description. Wilf - they serve it with chopsticks

we had a meeting round the corner yesterday so it was going to be this or the dutch but with the latest reports on the latter's decline figured we'd finally check out Rouge et Blanc, esp. with so many fans here and the review being so enthusiastic. the room is lovely, i like the wine list and they plate beautifully but we must have ordered wrong.

they were out of rouget and razor clams so we ended up with a somewhat heavier meal then intended (figured it would make for a good padding for drinking with winemakers later ): bone marrow with baby octopus, sausage on licorice stick, short rib stuffed squid with beans, lamb ribs and duck confit. most of the plates had good to very good elements when tasted separately but the combinations together just didn't do much for me.

take the bone marrow topped with those cute little baby octopi lined up on top - lovely visually but the charred bits didn't really add to the marrow, which was ok. the accompanying shaved fennel was terrific though and i ended up eating more of it than anything else on the plate, which also came with a tasteless, slightly gummy "scallion bun". good thing we ordered "monkey bread" aka a parker roll, i found the bun almost inedible.

or the sausage on a licorice stick - again, cute idea, nice presentation but why a tangle of cold naked vermicelli with the warm sausage? there was a little salad with pistachios and a smear of something - the sausage was good, the flavors of the salad too but together they just didn't come together and i could have done without the cold pasta.

i found the flavor of the short rib stuffed squid unpleasant, the beans were fine. the lamb ribs were very fatty and the accompanying charred peppers, although tasty on their own, didn't really add much, ditto the eggplant. best thing on the plate was a little pickle covered with seeds. the roti it came with was fine, a little too greasy perhaps.

the duck confit was a favorite - wonderfully crispy and meaty, sitting atop a bean medley and escarole. there was a soft yolk duck egg - cold - didn't do anything for the rest the plate, except perhaps visually.

almost all of the dishes were beautifully presented (the squid wasn't much to look at), and i enjoyed some elements of the plates, but most of them just didn't come together as complete dishes. the service was friendly but slow, even though the room was about a third full at its busiest. we stared at a lot of dirty plates for quite some time. seemed understaffed. although i liked the space and wine list, and the staff was very nice and knowledgeable about the food, overall, didn't live up to expectations.

[Sneakeater]

You forgot to mention that you were offended by its fetishization of imperialism.

[Lex]

[nuxvomica]

You forgot to mention that you were offended by its fetishization of imperialism.

not at all. and i liked that abbreviated French maid's outfit on the server/bartender

[Sneakeater]

The night I was there, it just didn't fit him properly.

[nuxvomica]

should have gone back the next night - fit her very well. plus she had the legs for it.

[Sneakeater]

Some new stuff on the menu. Including among others:

1. A sort of octopus terrine that is confusingly referred to on the menu as "shaved octopus." This is nicely done in itself, but its accompaniment makes it special. The menu calls it "pennywort vinagrette". It's a bit thick and mushy for a vinagrette, but I'm not complaining. The acid tang, playing against the indescribable earthy flavor of the pennywort, was a hit -- especially when you mushed the octopus around in it. Good job.

2. A more ordinary appetizer of "five-spice oxtail" under a big fat disc of braised daikon with some turnips. This was fine, but I thought the spicing would be more distinctive.

3. Another hit! Whole roast squab, sitting on top of a duck confit bread pudding, with an entourage of buttered walnuts and huckleberries. Whole means whole: head and feet and all -- but pre-carved. What can you say about this? The squab is its yummy self, rich and tasty, with lacquered skin and a nice layer of fat. The bread pudding is also rich -- as are the buttered walnuts. Good thing for those tart huckleberries! If you like this sort of thing, you're going to like this. A lot.

Happily, this restaurant -- strong on opening -- is getting better. If you ever enjoyed it, you owe it a revisit.

COMP DISCLOSURE: The octopus. And a glass of a knockout sparkling rose Loire(?) full of odd but delicious grapes.

[Suzanne F]

Is the squab for two? or just for one? Doesn't say on the menu.

And, love the honesty of the item: "Sizzling Pork Fat" (at least, I'm assuming it's an honest description)

[Sneakeater]

Just for one.