Or perhaps stars don't figure in their thinking; I could believe that.
Why should they? Filling sixty covers a week couldn't possibly depend on a review. They know what the restaurant does. Four stars aren't needed to validate that.
Maybe there should be a special unstarred category of pieces for "places most people will never be able to get into but want to read about because they're masochists and like to read about places they'll never get into."* That way, no important limited editorial time/effort/space lost from the weekly reviews of real restaurants.
*Kind of like the way I want to read Orik et al discussing restaurants in Paris or Tokyo or Stockholm or wherever.
I don't actually know what a handbasket is -- but whatever they are, singer-songwriters are in the first ones going to hell. -- Sneakeater, 29 March 2018 - 12:06 AM
notorious stickler -- NY Times
deeply annoying and nitpicking -- Molly O'Neill, One Big Table