Dit Le Philosophe
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Posted 05 December 2012 - 12:25 AM
Posted 17 January 2013 - 05:16 PM
You know, I think I figured out now why Lobster Thermidor isn't very popular (except maybe as an over the top exercise in grotesque Quebecois cuisine), especially when the gruyere component is the most prominent one.
The good thing about this place is they can cook meat and seafood well. Both the duck breast and lobster were perfect.
The not so good thing is that everything else on the plate is not very appealing even though the ingredients are good (and relatively expensive, lots of stuff from Lani) with a lot of overly sweet and acidic components and conversely letting green beans and tokyo turnips "speak for themselves". An exception being the frog legs dish where they could have dropped the frog legs entirely.
There's a wine list now, and it looks relatively inexpensive, but it's of the most annoying variety (everything is either the wrong year, or the wrong appellation, or just randomly marked up to kill, like an $11 bottle selling for $58)
The decor looks like they're planning to turn this into a franchise, or else the designer only has the most vague idea of what a French place is supposed to look like and usually designs frozen yogurt or noodle places.
p.s. does Simone Weil qualify as a philosopher?
Posted 17 January 2013 - 05:33 PM
Yes, she scrapes in, I think. ETA: I see she taught philosophy at a secondary school. They do that in France.
Agree about the frog's legs, although I liked the dish: "The legs are served off the bone, tiny nuggets of thigh meat, and might almost be overlooked among the accompaniments: tender slices of sunchoke, hen of the woods."
Posted 21 February 2013 - 07:18 PM
It's gotten the Ligaya Mishan treatment.
ETA: Find the error in this statement:
It is one in a trove of French culinary war horses that constitutes the menu of Le Philosophe, which opened in November in NoHo and occupies a kind of spiritual midpoint between Balthazar and La Grenouille.
I don't actually know what a handbasket is -- but whatever they are, singer-songwriters are in the first ones going to hell. -- Sneakeater, 29 March 2018 - 12:06 AM
notorious stickler -- NY Times
deeply annoying and nitpicking -- Molly O'Neill, One Big Table
Posted 22 February 2013 - 03:21 PM
Mixed metaphors for a start. A trove of war horses?
A very positive piece. Anyone know if these "Hungry City" reviews are written under the same constraints as "Dining" reviews? Multiple visits, anonymity?
Posted 22 February 2013 - 03:29 PM
Anyone know if these "Hungry City" reviews are written under the same constraints as "Dining" reviews?
Well, they let Ligaya Mishan write them. I suspect she breaks into the office late at night and sneaks them into the paper.
Posted 22 February 2013 - 04:24 PM
I commented on the treasure trove abomination yesterday. She's got a rap sheet a mile long.
Oakie in 2009.
Me last July.
Me again last September. I'm really proud of that one. "Reading her reviews was like watching a drunk juggle knives. There was a sense that something bad and exciting could happen at any second." I even added a soundtrack to be played while you read the review.
Suzanne in December.
Posted 22 February 2013 - 04:47 PM
Oh, I hadn't really been following her excesses. Most amusing.
You need to get your head out of that Pop Music thread from time to time.
Posted 22 February 2013 - 04:58 PM
Lex needs to take over Jules's Bruni Blog.
Daisy and I used to take turns ripping apart Restaurantgirl's reviews. We should have gotten a Pulitzer.
Posted 22 February 2013 - 05:01 PM
My greatest concern with starting a blog is that Lex will spend lazy summer afternoons mocking it.
That Mishan person is really something though. Couldn't make it in writing real estate listing blurbs?
Posted 22 February 2013 - 05:08 PM
The problem with Mishan is that she's not consistently awful. RG could be relied on to deliver a truckload of howlers every week. Mishan dribbles them out in fits and starts although there are some weeks where she enters a fugue state and channels Restaurantgirl.
Mostly though we have to content ourselves with the occasional "treasure trove of war horses."