Jump to content


Photo

Ligaya, REALLY?

New York Times Ligaya Mishan

  • Please log in to reply
174 replies to this topic

#1 Sneakeater

Sneakeater

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 58,779 posts

Posted 19 December 2014 - 08:21 PM

I think Ligaya deserves her own thread.


Bar Loser

MF Old

#2 Sneakeater

Sneakeater

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 58,779 posts

Posted 19 December 2014 - 08:22 PM

OK, OK, I have the mind of a twelve-year-old. But, really, Ligaya? (On the Hallal Guys' brick-and-mortar shop):
 

But it’s the white sauce, always the white sauce, that draws everybody in, from uniformed cops to dainty girls whose palates otherwise incline to macarons. . . .

Get ready to taste it, America. It is tangy yet mellow, creamy yet deceptively light, with vague and probably spurious allusions to ranch dressing and tzatziki, a strong implication of garlic and lemon, and maybe even (wild card) tahini. But we will never know the truth, and that is half the thrill.


My eighth grade homeroom would have been on the floor over that. The boys, anyway.
Bar Loser

MF Old

#3 splinky

splinky

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 23,566 posts

Posted 19 December 2014 - 08:31 PM

OK, OK, I have the mind of a twelve-year-old. But, really, Ligaya? (On the Hallal Guys' brick-and-mortar shop):
 

But it’s the white sauce, always the white sauce, that draws everybody in, from uniformed cops to dainty girls whose palates otherwise incline to macarons. . . .

Get ready to taste it, America. It is tangy yet mellow, creamy yet deceptively light, with vague and probably spurious allusions to ranch dressing and tzatziki, a strong implication of garlic and lemon, and maybe even (wild card) tahini. But we will never know the truth, and that is half the thrill.


My eighth grade homeroom would have been on the floor over that. The boys, anyway.

that's what she said

“One thing kids like is to be tricked. For instance, I was going to take my little nephew to Disneyland, but instead I drove him to an old burned-out warehouse. 'Oh, no!', I said, 'Disneyland burned down.' He cried and cried, but I think that deep down he thought it was a pretty good joke. I started to drive over to the real Disneyland, but it was getting pretty late.”
~Jack Handey

*proud descendant of cheese eating surrender monkeys*

 


#4 Suzanne F

Suzanne F

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 21,161 posts

Posted 19 December 2014 - 08:49 PM

Thank you. You know that she's just a stringer, right? Not NYT staff.

 

You can probably find other posts for this thread by searching on "latter-day Restaurant Girl" or some such. Or just look for posts I've made, because lord knows I've bitched about her writing plenty. (Maybe when I'm not busy I'll search.)


I'm not wrong about these things. -- Adrian, 15 September 2017 - 7:35 AM

 

notorious stickler -- NY Times
deeply annoying and nitpicking -- Molly O'Neill, One Big Table


#5 Sneakeater

Sneakeater

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 58,779 posts

Posted 19 December 2014 - 08:52 PM

I'm sure there will be many many new opportunities for posts.
Bar Loser

MF Old

#6 SobaAddict70

SobaAddict70

    Advanced Member

  • Validating
  • PipPipPip
  • 748 posts

Posted 22 December 2014 - 04:20 AM

I don't think she's that bad.  At the very least, she makes me want to go to those places.

 

That's a plus in my book.



#7 Sneakeater

Sneakeater

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 58,779 posts

Posted 22 December 2014 - 04:23 AM

I have to agree with you about that.
Bar Loser

MF Old

#8 Suzanne F

Suzanne F

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 21,161 posts

Posted 22 December 2014 - 01:56 PM

She's calmed down lately. Not so much verbing nouns and adjectives, nouning verbs, and thesaurusing everything. Once my workload lessens, I'll search for the other posts.

 

But I do agree she's doing a public service. Better than the reviews in The New Yorker, which tend to be a lot of hipster places.


I'm not wrong about these things. -- Adrian, 15 September 2017 - 7:35 AM

 

notorious stickler -- NY Times
deeply annoying and nitpicking -- Molly O'Neill, One Big Table


#9 Sneakeater

Sneakeater

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 58,779 posts

Posted 22 December 2014 - 02:52 PM

That's the whole purpose of the reviews in the New Yorker. It would be odd if the "Goings on about Town" section devoted itself to uncovering obscure ethnic restaurants.
Bar Loser

MF Old

#10 Suzanne F

Suzanne F

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 21,161 posts

Posted 19 February 2015 - 07:17 PM

Back to her old ways, and then some:
 

The mission here may be comfort food, but there is a reverence to its making, even in the minor dishes, like a potent, if miniature, salad of burdock, clingy with miso mayonnaise, and banbanji, poached chicken slugged with a thick, unhurried sauce of nerigoma (toasted sesame paste), whose flavor suggests a more worldly peanut butter.
 
Cold tofu is so firm that it must be cut rather than scooped. Sluiced with dashi and soy, with feral curls of shiso and scallions, it earned from my dining companions the kind of adoration usually reserved for deliquescing meat. Another slab of tofu, marinated in miso for a week, turned flavor into assault, evoking Edam cheese.


Okay, maybe the "clingy with" is not so bad.


I'm not wrong about these things. -- Adrian, 15 September 2017 - 7:35 AM

 

notorious stickler -- NY Times
deeply annoying and nitpicking -- Molly O'Neill, One Big Table


#11 LiquidNY

LiquidNY

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 6,153 posts

Posted 19 February 2015 - 07:23 PM

I love getting assaulted by food... especially when it's feral.

Man about town.


#12 prasantrin

prasantrin

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 6,878 posts

Posted 19 February 2015 - 08:13 PM

My sister once dumped a spoonful of spaghetti sauce on my head. I was maybe 10 or 12? Haven't been assaulted by food since.

#13 Suzanne F

Suzanne F

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 21,161 posts

Posted 19 February 2015 - 11:13 PM

And I assaulted Paul with a glass of orange juice, years ago. Before I learned anger management.

 

But come on, don't you just adore deliquescing meat? Now that's feral.


I'm not wrong about these things. -- Adrian, 15 September 2017 - 7:35 AM

 

notorious stickler -- NY Times
deeply annoying and nitpicking -- Molly O'Neill, One Big Table


#14 prasantrin

prasantrin

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 6,878 posts

Posted 19 February 2015 - 11:29 PM

Is that like when Jeff goldblum turned into the fly and he sucked his meat up through a straw? Or was that his new mouth?

#15 oakapple

oakapple

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 9,326 posts

Posted 20 February 2015 - 02:48 PM

Thank you. You know that she's just a stringer, right? Not NYT staff.

 

I'm not sure how relevant that is anymore, assuming it ever was. Florence Fabricant is a stringer, too. So was Peter Meehan (her predecessor in that job), and I think he was generally well-liked.


Marc Shepherd
Editor, New York Journal