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Ligaya, REALLY?

New York Times Ligaya Mishan

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#181 Suzanne F

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Posted 15 December 2017 - 05:10 PM

Uncle Boon's Sister.

 

 

Moo ping, pork skewers, are more straightforward, the meat sculpted around flat sticks like chubby Popsicles and tasting of candied smoke. For the street snack called mataba, ground lamb warmed by yellow curry hides inside a fold of flaky roti ready to start shedding its buttery skins.


I don't actually know what a handbasket is -- but whatever they are, singer-songwriters are in the first ones going to hell. -- Sneakeater, 29 March 2018 - 12:06 AM

 

notorious stickler -- NY Times
deeply annoying and nitpicking -- Molly O'Neill, One Big Table


#182 Lex

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Posted 15 December 2017 - 06:09 PM

God, that's awful.


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"But this is blatant ultracrepidarianism on my part." - Taion

I have a dream of a multiplicity of pastramis.

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#183 Suzanne F

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Posted 15 December 2017 - 07:03 PM

And there's more where that came from.

 

I have had to stop reading the comments on her columns, as too many of them praise her, um, lyricism. Exorcism would be more like it, as far as I'm concerned.


I don't actually know what a handbasket is -- but whatever they are, singer-songwriters are in the first ones going to hell. -- Sneakeater, 29 March 2018 - 12:06 AM

 

notorious stickler -- NY Times
deeply annoying and nitpicking -- Molly O'Neill, One Big Table


#184 Sneakeater

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Posted 15 December 2017 - 08:09 PM

As David St. Hubbins would have said, it's such a fine line between idiotic and lyrical.
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#185 Suzanne F

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Posted 19 January 2018 - 04:18 PM

Aren't we lucky? Two "reviews" within two days: Cafe Boqoo ("The Versai, layered with fried catfish, carrots and pickled cabbage and slaked with a sauce of satsumas (mandarin oranges) and chile, calls to mind the sweet-sour tang of banh mi.") and Amdo Kitchen ("At the Amdo Kitchen food truck, momos come huddled unceremoniously.")/Potala (brick-and-mortar restaurant).


I don't actually know what a handbasket is -- but whatever they are, singer-songwriters are in the first ones going to hell. -- Sneakeater, 29 March 2018 - 12:06 AM

 

notorious stickler -- NY Times
deeply annoying and nitpicking -- Molly O'Neill, One Big Table


#186 Behemoth

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Posted 23 January 2018 - 02:59 PM

Is it meant to be lyrical? I read it more as intentionally silly.
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#187 Suzanne F

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Posted 23 January 2018 - 03:37 PM

She's putting her poetry MFA to use. If you can stand to read the comments, you'll see that many some people LOVE her writing. Whether it's an accurate description of the restaurant and its food is not their concern.


I don't actually know what a handbasket is -- but whatever they are, singer-songwriters are in the first ones going to hell. -- Sneakeater, 29 March 2018 - 12:06 AM

 

notorious stickler -- NY Times
deeply annoying and nitpicking -- Molly O'Neill, One Big Table


#188 prasantrin

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Posted 23 January 2018 - 11:28 PM

She should write soft porn a la those grey books (gray?). She could probably make a lot of money.



#189 Suzanne F

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Posted 23 January 2018 - 11:42 PM

She should write soft porn a la those grey books (gray?). She could probably make a lot of money.

:gold:


I don't actually know what a handbasket is -- but whatever they are, singer-songwriters are in the first ones going to hell. -- Sneakeater, 29 March 2018 - 12:06 AM

 

notorious stickler -- NY Times
deeply annoying and nitpicking -- Molly O'Neill, One Big Table


#190 Suzanne F

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Posted 04 February 2018 - 06:00 PM

Posting my comment here, because I do not expect it to be accepted and posted with this week's review. Another commenter complained that his meal took way to long to come out, and the food was badly cooked.

Lee P.: I have not eaten at this place, but I had a similar negative experience at another "Hungry City" restaurant, in that the food--of an ethnicity with which I'm well familiar--was mediocre at best. That experience led me to a much closer reading of these write-ups. What I discovered in parsing them is that the romance of the backstory appears to play a huge role, enough to cause Ms. Mishan to gloss over what would be considered major flaws in a more mainstream place. You expected a modicum of expediency in service and quality in cooking, neither an unreasonable hope for a place that takes money to feed customers, and were disappointed on both; this review says: "Time bends here; a meal might take four hours, even when the dining room is empty. The kitchen is still finding its footing — or, perhaps, you are being asked to pause and learn a different pace of life."

I do not fault the restaurateurs promoted in the column. They surely must be doing the best they can. And they probably fuss over the dishes to be photographed in ways they may not over regular plates. My own experience elsewhere was at odds with the slide show, too. (I've been at photo shoots for other, "mainstream" restaurants, and everyone wants to make the food look especially enticing.) But I no longer make the special trip to eat at Hungry City restaurants.

Caveat lector.


ETA: they did post it.

 

GerryOlds (below): Of course it's not acceptable. Some would say not even for a fancy-schmancy tasting menu. And certainly not for bad food.

 

I figured it wouldn't be worth it to refer to Mishan as "the Jim Leff of the print world" since I suspect very few NYT readers would get the reference. But really, she is. She seems never to have let food knowledge (which I question her having) get in the way of a sob story. Remember the Dominican place in the Bronx she wrote up last November, where everything is from a steam table? The slide show may make the food look nice, even as served in aluminum foil takeout containers with plastic forks, but I doubt it is any better than the many places in that or other Dominican enclaves around the city. But aw gosh, it's a memorial to the cook's mother who died in 2001 when that plane on its way to the DR crashed, with whom she had worked a food truck. How can you not admire her pluck and love such a place? And oh look at the "salt-of-the-earth" folks who eat there (including a toddler sitting on the counter, yuck)? Such a diverse (= probably different from your average NYT reader) crowd! Let's go slumming there!

 

There are very few people in this world that I could say I hate. But Mishan is one, for the sins of leading people astray through horrible writing. And pandering.


I don't actually know what a handbasket is -- but whatever they are, singer-songwriters are in the first ones going to hell. -- Sneakeater, 29 March 2018 - 12:06 AM

 

notorious stickler -- NY Times
deeply annoying and nitpicking -- Molly O'Neill, One Big Table


#191 GerryOlds

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Posted 04 February 2018 - 07:24 PM

Suzanne, I almost posted that exact snippet about the 4-hour long (!) meal. How would that ever be acceptable even for a place that's remote or getting its bearings?



#192 Suzanne F

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Posted 12 February 2018 - 01:16 AM

According to comments on this week's piece about Kebab Empire, a Uighur* place on 8th Avenue in Midtown, the restaurant has been DOH'd. The DOH site confirms that the place has been closed since their inspection on 2/7/18.

 

Schadenfreude never felt so good.

 

Admin note: edited to remove political content


I don't actually know what a handbasket is -- but whatever they are, singer-songwriters are in the first ones going to hell. -- Sneakeater, 29 March 2018 - 12:06 AM

 

notorious stickler -- NY Times
deeply annoying and nitpicking -- Molly O'Neill, One Big Table


#193 Neocon maudit

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Posted 12 February 2018 - 08:13 PM

Heh, I'd thought about visiting Kebab Empire: Sutton liked it too, and there's a H connexion.  Didn't it open just this year?  How quickly are places inspected?

 

Where should I try Uighur food in New York?  I'm too lazy to go to Flushing...

 

I favour rather purplish prose [Lawrence Durrell and Alan Hollinghurst are two of my favourite modern novelists], so I suspect if I'd become a professional reviewer, Suzanne and the rest of you would be taking the piss out of me weekly.  :cool:



#194 Suzanne F

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Posted 19 April 2018 - 07:20 PM

She's back at it:

 

 

In another pot, beef shank relaxes in rice wine, soy sauce and the same heady mix of aromatics. Once combined, the two stocks are given a few hours to sort out their differences and become one. The panels of beef emerge beautifully tender, the connecting stitches of fat visible to the eye but dissembling immediately on the tongue. Knottier tendon is available for those who want more of a fight.

 

The soup is notably holistic, as if refusing to take sides, neither frankly carnal nor purely herbaceous but somewhere more intriguingly in between.

 

And she used "incarnadine" again, which gave a commenter fits some time ago.


I don't actually know what a handbasket is -- but whatever they are, singer-songwriters are in the first ones going to hell. -- Sneakeater, 29 March 2018 - 12:06 AM

 

notorious stickler -- NY Times
deeply annoying and nitpicking -- Molly O'Neill, One Big Table


#195 Sneakeater

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Posted 19 April 2018 - 07:59 PM

It's good the beef shank is relaxing, considering what's about to happen to it.


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