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Passing through Paris


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#16 Robert Brown

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Posted 24 May 2016 - 06:59 PM

Okay, time to get serious. I only dine in fancy restaurants whose name or whose chef's name easily lends itself to word play. Sometimes it's perilous, as with L'Astrance, one of whose owners is out to exploit every way he can the high percentage of know-nothing clients. But I've been to nearly all the others in the fairly-recent past, seeing them becoming increasingly diminished and increasingly expensive at the same time. Nonetheless I have had some excellent dishes, the best being the Pitiviers at Le Cinq that was almost as enjoyable as the Oreillier de la Belle Aurore at Gerard Besson, who, by the time I had the dish there, had lost all his stars.

 

We’re making something of a whirlwind trip because my wife and I have been invited to a wedding in Villie-Morgon. We arrive in Geneva, spend three nights at the Lake of Annecy, one night at La Bouitte (anyone been?), three nights in Beaujolais, and the last day getting from Macon to Paris Gare de Lyon at 12:15 and heading out to CDG around 4:00. Unless we decide to get to Paris the night before, we would have to have lunch either around the Gare de Lyon or Montmartre because my wife wants to buy pepper at a spice shop she saw on L’Escapade de Petitrenaud”. Also double trouble because that day is Monday, August 1.

 

What do you think? I will appreciate any suggestions for dinner on July 31 or lunch August 1.



#17 Chambolle

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Posted 24 May 2016 - 07:35 PM

Dinner Sunday night before the August month of vacation starts ... or ... lunch Monday Aug 1. 

 

Is this some attempt at humor ?

 

If not, good luck ! I'm not touching this. I'd tweak your plans if they are not set in stone.

 

Or use your brain and fly to Spain. Lyon - Barca costs diddly.

 

I know that greater Macon area pretty well fyi ... where are you eating ?

 

Okay, dinner time in Paris. Gotta run !



#18 hollywood

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Posted 24 May 2016 - 07:39 PM

I'd suggest some seafood at Taira in the 16th.


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#19 Robert Brown

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Posted 24 May 2016 - 07:46 PM

Champ-O, I can't tell you how much I appreciate your taking the time to spend on me when you are frantically trying to complete the next great American ex-pat novel. 

 

I will appreciate hearing about places in and around the Beaujolais area. Lyon, too, although I have a favorite (Daniel et Denise) even though the last visit I got into a tiff with the manager over my being given the abridged menu they give to touristas. 



#20 voyager

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Posted 24 May 2016 - 07:47 PM

Dinner Sunday night before the August month of vacation starts ... or ... lunch Monday Aug 1. 

 

 

Indeed!    And best check that your wife's shop will be open before building plans around it.  


It's not my circus,

not my monkeys.


#21 Robert Brown

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Posted 24 May 2016 - 08:10 PM

Thanks!! I wrote the shop last week, and in typical French fashion they haven't answered. Thanks again for the tip about taking the TGV to Paris that leaves from Macon. You know your stuff.



#22 voyager

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Posted 24 May 2016 - 08:57 PM

Chambo and I live to serve.


It's not my circus,

not my monkeys.


#23 Robert Brown

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Posted 30 May 2016 - 01:30 AM

Champo, in hommage to your incredible joie de vivre and zest for living, not to mention the suppleness of that amazing brain of yours, we just finished a bottle of 2009 Chambolle-Musigny "Les Grenchiers" of David Duband in your honor. All that was missing was your reommendations for the Beaujolais region as well as for Lyon.

#24 Sneakeater

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Posted 30 May 2016 - 03:32 AM

Chambo doesn't approve of David Duband.


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#25 Robert Brown

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Posted 31 May 2016 - 06:11 PM

I had his 2009 village Gevrey-Chambertin and it had already begun its decline. But Champ-O's namesake was very approachable and delicious, even if it lacked any surprises. I guess I got under his skin--kind of like Elizabeth Warren does to Donald Trump.



#26 Robert Brown

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Posted 31 May 2016 - 06:18 PM

I figure not really though. Chambo is a busy lad. I can wait, I'm not leaving for another seven weeks.



#27 voyager

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Posted 04 August 2016 - 07:56 PM

Robert, where did you finally choose to lunch on Monday?


It's not my circus,

not my monkeys.


#28 Suzanne F

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Posted 06 August 2016 - 06:25 PM

Okay, time to get serious. I only dine in fancy restaurants whose name or whose chef's name easily lends itself to word play. Sometimes it's perilous, as with L'Astrance, one of whose owners is out to exploit every way he can the high percentage of know-nothing clients. <snip>

So are we to take it that you look Astrance at that sort of behavior?


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#29 mongo_jones

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Posted 09 April 2017 - 10:15 AM

jay rayner lowers the boom on le cinq.

 

 

There is only one thing worse than being served a terrible meal: being served a terrible meal by earnest waiters who have no idea just how awful the things they are doing to you are. And so, to the flagship Michelin three-star restaurant of the George V Hotel in Paris, or the scene of the crime as I now like to call it. In terms of value for money and expectation Le Cinq supplied by far the worst restaurant experience I have endured in my 18 years in this job. This, it must be said, is an achievement of sorts.

 

It wasn’t meant to be so. Irritated by reader complaints about the cost of eating out I decided to visit a classic Parisian gastro-palace, as a reality check. I imagined it less as review, and more as an observational piece, full of moments of joy and bliss, of the sort only stupid amounts of cash can buy. We’d all have a good laugh at rich people and then return to business as usual, a little wiser. I chose Le Cinq, restaurant of Christian Le Squer, named chef of the year by his peers in 2016. I assumed it would be whimsical, and perhaps outrageous. Never did I think the shamefully terrible cooking would slacken my jaw from the rest of my head.


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#30 Adrian

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Posted 09 April 2017 - 01:36 PM

Anglo critic takes down Parisian haute cuisine temple is a genre piece. It is odd how one of Rainer's major critiques is the use of dated technique, which seems a touch silly.

That said, a bit odd to hear this written about LeSquer as the cooking at Le Cinq has been uniformly positive in these parts and others.

I think you need to interpret what I'm saying in a reasonable way.