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Taions New Brooklyn Cuisine

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#1 GerryOlds

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Posted 04 June 2016 - 08:45 PM

This is to encourage Sneak to share his thoughts.

 

To start, I'll share some of mine:

 

Prices are right. Most of the food is spot-on (hello trout with fussy, crispy skin chips), but the mess of battered and fried fiddlehead ferns could've been anything -- waste of a seasonal vegetable IMO.

 

Didn't love the steak itself (cooked well but maybe could've used a touch more salt?), but thought the saucing (tarragon and lemon) was absolutely brilliant. 

 

Only other letdown was the strawberry dessert, which was one-note. Strawberry sorbet with sliced strawberries and a strawberry juice or syrup. In fact. all of the desserts (chocolate mousse, frozen yogurt) are kind of copouts compared to the savory menu.



#2 Sneakeater

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Posted 04 June 2016 - 08:54 PM

Here's the short version: what I think is so great about this place is that they aren't presenting imaginative and highly technical cooking informed by experience with the very highest of haute cuisine, but done within the constraint of reduced food costs, as a replacement for haute cuisine.  Rather, they present it as what it is (and what NBC originally represented as, before at least its spokesperson positions got taken over by the ignorant, inexperienced, and tendentious):  better food than you could ever reasonably expect at popular prices, at popular prices.

 

They admit that they use cheap cuts and off-versions of high quality ingredients (such as, for example, slightly damaged diver scallops) not because they think they're better than luxe ingredients, but because it permits them to keep prices down.*

 

Sure, not everything they try works.  They just opened -- and maybe it's inherent in the concept that some of their flights of fancy won't pan out.  But to me, the thought that I can get food this good and this interesting, at prices that don't make me feel guilty about eating it, within rolling distance of my apartment is sort of stunning.

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* Note that these are all top-quality ingredients in terms of sourcing and such.  It's just what they can get from top purveyors at a lower cost.


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#3 Orik

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Posted 05 June 2016 - 07:05 AM

Is there a market where these products are sold? Do restaurant distributors offer torn scallops, misshapen steaks etc. at a lower price?

sandwiches that are large and filling and do not contain tuna or prawns


#4 voyager

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Posted 05 June 2016 - 02:59 PM

I have no doubt there is.   Certainly this distressed product isn't jettisoned.    FWIW, and as parallel, Bryan Flannery sells off-sized, ugly meat at substantial discount from his perfectly matched steaks.

 

https://www.flannerybeef.com/

http://www.flanneryb...lluva-deal.html


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#5 Sneakeater

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Posted 05 June 2016 - 04:44 PM

On a strictly selfish level, I have to observe that, until something opens in the now-empty space once occupied by that Weird Marchese Restaurant, the closest two restaurants to my apartment are now this and Franny's.

 

That's pretty sweet.


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#6 Lex

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Posted 05 June 2016 - 06:13 PM

...until something opens in the now-empty space once occupied by that Weird Marchese Restaurant ...

 

Aliseo.  I remember getting a mini lecture from the owner about how he was removing a certain wine from the list because it wasn't "native."  It had only been grown in the region for 400 years.

 

He had lots of quirks.  One was his love of a hat that looked exactly like the one that Elijah Muhammad used to wear.  He would wait until about 9:00 PM to put it on.  Like clockwork.

 

elijah.jpg

 

It was an odd choice of haberdashery for a middle aged Italian male.

 

Or maybe it was a flying monkey cap.

 

mdp9rkkKc6Kx23D3HNYaodA.jpg

 

 

Alas.  We'll never know the answer.


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#7 Jesikka

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Posted 05 June 2016 - 09:02 PM

I found my food here last night a bit overseasoned, especially the steak and guinea hen.  Dishes were clever with lots of delicious elements.  The gaspacho was particularly excellent.  The chawanmushi was somehow a bit lackluster given how much black truffle was on top of it.  I think it needed edamame or ginko nuts or something in there.  Overall it was very ALMOST great, but also not quite there.  Definitely one to watch.  



#8 Steve R.

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Posted 05 June 2016 - 09:02 PM

Re: Lex's post

Neither type of hat. I was with you (we took you there... we'd been before and had met the owner/chef & thought him charming and sincere). I made the mistake of asking him for the Planeta Chardonnay, which was on the list & I liked. He said that he was out of it & was taking it off the list. Stupidly, I asked why & the very long lecture about indigenous grapes ensued. You looked like you wanted to bolt right there and then.

Aliseo lasted quite awhile, as did his pizza place across the street (Amorina?)

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#9 Steve R.

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Posted 05 June 2016 - 09:14 PM

Albano Ballerini. Even though Aliseo closed about 3 years ago, you can still get the reviews, etc on Yelp. And there's even a picture of the owner/chef with his hat on.

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#10 Wilfrid

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Posted 05 June 2016 - 11:38 PM

The way I'm reading this so far is, don't walk two miles or take a long subway ride to get there. If you're there, it's worthwhile. Fair?

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#11 Sneakeater

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Posted 06 June 2016 - 01:27 AM

his pizza place across the street (Amorina?)


Still there.
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#12 Sneakeater

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Posted 06 June 2016 - 01:27 AM

The way I'm reading this so far is, don't walk two miles or take a long subway ride to get there. If you're there, it's worthwhile. Fair?


Absolutely not. I think this is an extremely important restaurant.

More of a destination than, say, Lowlife was.
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#13 joethefoodie

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Posted 06 June 2016 - 03:26 AM

So, you're giving it 9 months then?



#14 Sneakeater

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Posted 06 June 2016 - 02:00 PM

Or, perhaps clearer, much more of a destination than Willow.
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#15 Steve R.

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Posted 06 June 2016 - 02:08 PM

"It’s clear from the moment you finally get a table (no reservations, entirely worth the wait) that Amorina has a clear point of view on its food. “We want it to be seasonal,” says Fishman. “I mean it. Really seasonal. Every day we make a special pizza, called the ‘Will to Live.’ Every day it’s different.” Recent examples include chargrilled asparagus and crimini mushrooms, topped with sweetly caramelized onions and sticky balsamic glaze, and, just this week, grilled ramps on a bed of vibrant ramp pesto, topped with cherry tomatoes and fresh, local mozzarella.  “We get inspired by our CSA box, or by what’s at the market,” says Fishman. “We have farmers at Grand Army Plaza that we’ve been working with since the market was started. We have a friend who brings us wild ramps — lucky for us — and a mushroom guy, who is fantastic because mushrooms can be more year-round. Just the other night I was chatting with my husband about these great portobellos we had, and how they would go well with celery root and gremolata, maybe topped with a fresh salad. We talk about this all the time. My daughter threatens to move out because we’re always talking about ingredients. Apparently it’s quite boring in our house unless you really, really love pizza.”  In addition to the Will to Live pizza, Amorina boasts a changing menu of pastas and salads, and thick-crust, focaccia-style slices to go. “We give the chefs free rein and let them go to town,” says Fishman. “They can be a little off-the-hook improvised, and people come in specially to see what’s on.  “We want to be expressive and creative but not too weird. Honestly, it’s about being true to our ingredients and serving our neighborhood. That’s what we set out to do, and, ten years on, that’s what I think we’re doing.”

 

Okay… the above from Amorina's website.  Apparently it is still owned by the same couple as owned Aliseo back when & they are apparently just as sincere.  I only continue this thread digression to alert Lex that he can probably even see the hat if he goes there for a pizza.  Just don't ask how long the wild ramps have been grown in Brooklyn.  Seriously, thanks to Lex and Sneak I now know that a place I really liked (Aliseo) still sorta exists and may be worth a visit.  I'm more ready for a lecture nowadays.


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