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Otway

Brooklyn Clinton Hill

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#1 Sneakeater

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Posted 30 January 2017 - 06:27 PM

Otway is the successor to Tilda All Day, a brunchy cafe at the corner of Fulton and St. James in Clinton Hill that was highly regarded.  Tilda was co-owned by Chef Claire Welle and backers Samantha Safer and Daniel Nusbaum.  The two women got into a dispute with Nusbaum, the place closed, reopened in a different form without him or Welle, closed again, and now has become this new venture with Welle back in the kitchen backed by Safer.  FWIW, the kitchen is staffed entirely by women.  But the big news is Chef Welle, who had her highest previous kitchen position at Mas(Farmhouse) but had also worked at Gwynnett St., Picholine, and Tartine Bakery in San Francisco.  She is, on the basis of one dinner, an excellent chef, producing straightforward but imaginative New American food with clear, forthright flavors, very compelling.

 

The menu is small but appealing.  I started with the fried tripe, and that's just what it is:  a bowl of cleanly fried tripe sticks, with a nice tart dipping sauce.  Then the squab with mincemeat and a root vegetable tart:  also just what it says it is, and delicious.  Burnt nut pudding for dessert.

 

This is a neighborhood place.  Not necessarily worth a journey.  But you'd be nuts not to consider trying it if you're in the neighborhood.


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#2 Daniel

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Posted 30 January 2017 - 07:17 PM

excited for her.. i liked she and Danny.. Safer has a really interesting background with Valley Shepard and helping at Peck's and a few other places.. She is also very sweet and it's in my neighborhood.. We were supposed to go last night but, Jax got sick.. I will be heading there this week at some point. 

 

Excited for them.  What did you eat?  Also, i think it went Tilda and this place.. I didn't realize there was something in between are you sure about that? 


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#3 Sneakeater

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Posted 30 January 2017 - 07:24 PM

After Tilda All Day, it was the very different Tilda All Night (which I think was mainly about drinks and oysters).


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#4 Sneakeater

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Posted 07 March 2017 - 08:59 PM

A second dinner here gives me the impression that this place is even better than I initially thought.  I really love this style of cooking, which manages to be simultaneously forthright and refined.  The menu is short, sure.  But what's there is cherce.


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#5 Wilfrid

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Posted 08 March 2017 - 01:58 AM

Irrelevantly, the name has two connotations for me. John Otway, of course, of "Really Free" fame, and George Otway, who I think was the first schoolmaster at my alma mater, circa 1558.

ETA: I did forget Thomas Otway, the playwright.

#6 Wilfrid

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Posted 29 April 2017 - 05:01 PM

Well, well, this place is first rate.

Funnily it looks a lot like Petit Crenn in some ways. Shape of room, big windows, white walls.

#7 Wilfrid

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Posted 02 May 2017 - 09:04 PM

As I said, really good, and here's my write-up.



#8 Sneakeater

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Posted 02 May 2017 - 09:15 PM

Just so you know, Otway is in Clinton Hill.  Cobble Hill is next-door to Brooklyn Heights, some distance away.


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#9 Sneakeater

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Posted 02 May 2017 - 11:25 PM

La Vara is in Cobble Hill. Who knows, maybe you'll go someday.
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#10 Wilfrid

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Posted 03 May 2017 - 12:38 AM

Synapses. I checked the map just before writing that. Will amend.

#11 Wilfrid

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Posted 03 May 2017 - 12:39 AM

But as long as copy edits and photography are the main complaints...

ETA: I very much like La Vara's food, which I've enjoyed at a couple of events.

#12 Sneakeater

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Posted 03 May 2017 - 02:47 AM

How could anyone have any problems with the substantive content of such an on-target write-up?


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#13 Wilfrid

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Posted 03 May 2017 - 01:15 PM

There you go!

#14 Sneakeater

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Posted 18 May 2017 - 03:17 AM

The smoked tongue is really good (and really smoked).

 

So, for that matter, was the pork in "blood" sauce last week (good, I mean -- not smoked).

 

COMP DISCLOSURE:  A beta test of a crisped kale with raw beef dish.


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#15 Wilfrid

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Posted 02 August 2017 - 09:03 PM

Pig's head. Lamb's breast. Morels. Determined to go back.







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