4 Charles Prime Rib is the first New York effort of Brendan Sodikoff, the Chicago chef-restaurateur behind Au Cheval. Au Cheval is a sort of elevated diner (where everything, true to its name, has an egg on top -- and everything is incredibly rich). This, however, is quite the "real" restaurant. The lower floor of a brownstone on Charles Street (natch) done up in full Gilded Age style.
So intent are they on making this a "real" restaurant that there's only a service bar, which is a real pity. Anyway, the food -- if you like this kind of thing -- is excellent.
We started with cacio e pepe, which, the way they make it there, is richer than a carbonara. In other words, in true Au Cheval style. I would call this a don't-miss.
I then had (duh) the Prime Rib. They serve three cuts: an English cut, which is smaller; a Chicago cut, which is larger; and some other premium cut, which is on the bone (and probably requires sharing). I had the Chicago cut, and it was superlative. What can you say about roast beef? It was rich, meaty, cooked to a perfect pink, nice horseradish sauce on the side. I think next time I go I'll stick with the English cut, though. My dining companion had the burger, which looks like Au Cheval's famous burger but without the egg. Which is a good thing, as I thought the egg spoiled the burger by dominating the meat and making the whole thing too rich, even for me.
Cocktails are excellent, as you'd expect. The wine list isn't, as you'd also expect.
It's interesting that this opened so soon after the new Beatrice Inn, another meat-centric place. I think the Beatrice Inn has more interesting food that also provides more of a showcase for the kitchen's abilities. But you can't discount the immense immense appeal of this place. Pig that I am, I'm happy to have them both.