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Argentine Fire Cooking Fort Greene

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#1 Sneakeater

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Posted 10 April 2017 - 08:32 PM

Mettā is the new restaurant from Brooklyn restaurateur Henry Rich. It's on the corner of Adelphi and Willoughby in Fort Greene. The chef is Noberto Piattoni, an Argentine acolyte of the famous fire chef Francis Mallmann. Rich handles the wine.

I've read tons about Mallmann -- but I've never eaten his food. This is as close as I've gotten. I have to say, I thought it would be more . . . elemental. I liked most of it.

Attractive, très Brooklyn room (on an attractive, très Brooklyn corner).

Cocktails are Argentine-derived. I enjoyed whatever it was I started with. But I'm a bit ashamed to say I closed out the night drinking Fernet & Coke after Fernet & Coke. When you're pretending to be in Buenos Aires, pretend to do as the porteños do.

I started, as the now-obligatory snack with my cocktail, with "smashed" roast potatoes slathered with flounder tarmosalata. I liked the potatoes, but the spread did nothing to change my opinion that flounder roe is too bland and chalky to seek out.

I then had the beef-heart carpaccio because, well, I would. It's served shaved (I guess you'd call it) with peppers and leeks. No surprises here: deeply meaty meat, tasting as good as you'd expect it to.

For my main dish, I selected what the bartender commented, when he took my order, was the "most Argentine dish on the menu": beef short rib "steak", with collard greens (just like eating at home) and chimmichurri (ditto) (theirs is better). The same problem comes up whenever meats that call for slow cooking are instead prepared as "steaks": they end up not being nearly tender enough, instead unpleasantly chewy. That was the problem here. You might be known for your cooking over fire -- but some things need a braise.

 

Dessert was good.  I wish I could remember what it was.

 

I give Henry Rich credit for realizing, on his by-the-glass list, that the best Malbec doesn't come from Argentina.

 

I liked the vibe of this place a lot, and I liked most of the food.  I'm sure I will return, as it's in the 'hood next to my 'hood.  I'm not sure I'd recommend an excursion.

 

COMP DISCLOSURE:  An amaro (before my self-inflicted onslaught of Fernet & Cokes)


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#2 AaronS

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Posted 10 April 2017 - 08:35 PM

I'm surprised a 60 seat restaurant fits in that space.

#3 Sneakeater

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Posted 10 April 2017 - 08:39 PM

Don't know!  Sorry!


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#4 Sneakeater

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Posted 10 April 2017 - 08:41 PM

The pet store might still be there?  This might be across the street.  (I'm confused.)


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#5 Sneakeater

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Posted 10 April 2017 - 08:42 PM

Oh, I forgot to mention:  their meat knifes are fabulous!!!!!!!!!!


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#6 AaronS

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Posted 10 April 2017 - 08:44 PM

I'll report on the space when we go, which will probably be soon.

eta: I edited some of my posts in a way that makes sneakeaters look disjointed, I assure anyone reading that I'm the one responsible.

#7 Sneakeater

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Posted 10 April 2017 - 08:46 PM

Look forward to hearing.  Not just about the location.


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#8 Daniel

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Posted 10 April 2017 - 08:49 PM

Arcane??
Ason, I keep planets in orbit.

#9 AaronS

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Posted 10 April 2017 - 08:50 PM

?

#10 Daniel

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Posted 10 April 2017 - 08:52 PM

Space use to be whose your doggy
Ason, I keep planets in orbit.

#11 paryzer

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Posted 10 April 2017 - 09:04 PM

Oh, I forgot to mention:  their meat knifes are fabulous!!!!!!!!!!

I guess they need fabulous knives to cut through the tough meat.


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#12 Daniel

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Posted 19 April 2017 - 05:34 PM

I've been hearing some very mixed reports lately about this place so, I am happy sneak liked it.. I am looking forward to going soon.


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#13 Sneakeater

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Posted 19 April 2017 - 05:49 PM

Note that I myself was mixed. Absolutely worth going to (for us locals): interesting, good vibe. But don't expect anything great. (Except the knives.)
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#14 The Flon

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Posted 19 April 2017 - 06:03 PM

Cocktails are Argentine-derived. I enjoyed whatever it was I started with. But I'm a bit ashamed to say I closed out the night drinking Fernet & Coke after Fernet & Coke. When you're pretending to be in Buenos Aires, pretend to do as the porteños do.

 

The cocktail scene in Buenos Aires was not strong when we went in 2016. Standard offerings for the most part but definitely years behind some of trends happening in the U.S or Japan. One thing it took me a few days to realize is that Argentinians don't really drink too much. Certainly not to the excess you'd see here or in parts of Europe. One or two glasses of wine or cocktails can last them an entire session so there doesn't seem to be a thirst for too much creativity when it comes to cocktail development.



#15 joethefoodie

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Posted 19 April 2017 - 06:22 PM

That's interesting, because there have been 2 Tales of the Cocktail held in Buenos Aires (2013, 2014).







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