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The Loyal

John Fraser Village

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#1 Sneakeater

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Posted 19 October 2017 - 03:25 PM

The Loyal is a new upper-midlevel restaurant from John Fraser of Dovetail, Narcissa, and Nix.  It's located on the corner of Bleecker, 7th, and Barrow.

 

Everything about this place screams out "boring".  The decor is generic "comfortable nice"; it's very brown.  The food is mainly Italian-inflected American with Asian accents -- really, generic "restaurant food".  Nothing is bad.  Nothing is great.  This is the kind of place I can't see paying to eat in (although I did:  I'm trying to save you).

 

We had:  hamachi crudo; chayote toast; ox tail ravioli; rib-eye steak; duck-fat tator tots; braised mushrooms.  By far the best was the steak:  what does that tell you?  Any competent cook could have made that steak well.  The rest was fine.  It was ordinary.

 

The wine list is pretty good:  some interesting stuff.

 

The cocktails seemed to be aimed at people who don't like cocktails.  But then, this restaurant seems to be aimed at people who don't care much for food.

 

COMP DISCLOSURE:  Some wine.


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#2 Sneakeater

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Posted 19 October 2017 - 04:59 PM

In keeping with my new current obsession, I would like to note that almost none of the interesting dishes listed in this pre-opening puff piece remain on the menu.

 

Regressions to the mean are now coming in record time.


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#3 Wilfrid

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Posted 25 October 2017 - 12:26 AM

Sigh. Whatever it is I want, it's not this. Kind of a limbo between formal and funky.

#4 Sneakeater

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Posted 25 October 2017 - 05:00 AM

To be honest, I was sort of pissed off that I was dragged there.  (Hell is other people.)  Definitely not what I want.


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