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Perpignan, with a little Collioure

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#16 Tubbs


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Posted 04 February 2018 - 07:33 PM

If you make it to the countryside around there, the cathar castles are really fun to visit and climb.

#17 Ptipois


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Posted 06 February 2018 - 10:33 AM



Me too!    I love your salt cod pie.   An idea with legs.    Thanks.   


And of course, thanks for the ride.    You're traveling well. 

wait- I have a question I hadn't thought about, even though salt cod is everywhere.  Do you think it's salt cod rather than fresh?  I'm not great at this discernment.



Well, now that you mention it, it could be fresh cod.   I am used to fresh being called cabillaud and morue's being connected with brandade.  .    Where is Pti when we need her?


Either way, I like it.   


eta, here's one.   http://www.uneplumed...rue-antillaise/



Thanks dear Voyager, but I come here infrequently.
Looked at the pics attentively. This looks like solid, yummy "cuisine populaire" as one used to find plenty all over France, and which has been regrettably receding.

They show an evident mastery of gratiné cooking and indeed a good skill for risotto (Southern French style, i.e. more like a solid mass); plus a visible neglect of contemporary plating trends which is good news to me.


Properly speaking, "morue" should always refer to salt cod and "cabillaud" to fresh cod. But the rule is seldom followed and there's been a trend for the last ten years or so to label cabillaud as morue as well, or morue fraîche.


In this case, it is rather difficult to figure out whether this is salt cod tart or fresh cod tart. But the choice of "morue" in the title, especially in this part of France, where salt cod is rather skilfully dealt with, makes me think it's rehydrated salt cod in this case.


Salt cod can be a treat when properly rehydrated and cooked. Just look at what the Portuguese can make of it. Also, there is a tradition of salt cod in Provence, Languedoc and Roussillon. Secondly, fresh cod (cabillaud) is not a common fish on the South coast. If you have an opportunity, you may ask the lady chef (la chef, as the chalkboard puts it).

Edited to add: if you have the time, and like the sea, you should see the sandy beaches, especially around Salses and the coastal part of Rivesaltes, and the beautifully preserved sand strip of Lapalme, between the Mediterranean and a salt marsh, with vines spreading almost to the sea. The sandy coast from Argelès to Leucate (and above) is studded with seafood shacks (oysters, mussels, local fish) which are worth trying. A wonderful ecosystem which was partly spared from urbanization after the damage was visibly done on the Provence coast, on the other side of the Rhône.

Lieu jaune lobbyist

À la petite cuillère

#18 CheeseMonger


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Posted 19 February 2018 - 10:49 PM

I've been on the road quite a bit lately, and haven't had the time or ability to pull out the ol' chromebook and type up the final Collioure post. 


I took the train from Perpignan which only costs 6 euro, and is smooth and efficient.  There is also a 1 euro bus, that's based in Perpignan. For that heady price, you can go to all of these places on the map below- it's quite the steal.  You can see Collioure over on the coast there, and that was 45 minutes to Perpignan, with many stops and a maniac driver.  I took the bus back to Perpignan to catch the TGV to Paris. 




FYI, the bus stop in Collioure for this bus is not in the "center" but tucked into a fortress wall on the Ave. Gen. de Gaulle, just across from Can Pla restaurant.


So I arrive on the train with map set for my airbnb, and time to spare.  It's late January, but the weather is perfect (for me). Cool and slightly overcast. 


If you are a fan of the Master and Commander books by Patrick O'Brian, this is where he lived, and wrote these books, and a Picasso bio- they were friends.  Many artists ended up here as well, and I can see why- it's lovely. 


Unfortunately, most of the area restaurants and businesses are closed for the season, which left pickings slim. I walked down from the train station and since I was early for check-in, wandered into Cafe Sola, right in the the center.  The owner is very affable, and spoke English back to my French. I asked for a menu, and he says he'll tell me what he has- a chicken dish and a fish. Alrightly, the fish it is. 



It's a fennel and fish stew- looks a mess, but was very tasty and wholesome.  I thought the little green things sprinkled on the rice and salad would be capers, but they were lentils. 


Here's my excellent beer- 



This had the feel of a very "locals" place, but it's hard to tell since it's not exactly tourist season.  I ate here again for lunch the next day- steak frites which was just okay. I would have tried another restaurant, but the few that were open were pretty expensive, so I came back here for the atmosphere. Good Wifi is also a bonus. Apparently the owner is mad for football, and the place is adorned with TVs in each direction to catch the action.


A couple of photos around town:







I contemplated knocking around this area longer, but with so little choice in food, I decided to hightail it to Paris. 

#19 prasantrin


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Posted 20 February 2018 - 12:01 AM

Funny. When I saw the fish dish I thought, "Those are a lot of capers!" but when I looked again I realized they were lentils.