In one of his crankier pieces, Cuozzo rants on about various things he dislikes about the restaurants he appears to be forced to go to. Actually, most of us agree with much of what he's whining about; actually, most of us probably whined about it here on MFF before he stole our ideas. But what's funny is his rant yesterday about natural wines:
Natural wine lovers are cultish in their enthusiasm for funky vinos made without additives or filtration, but they’re not for everyone.
At the new Frenchette in Tribeca, wine director Jorge Riera is proud that the hundreds of bottles on offer are all natural, but such a classically modeled bistro needs more options. Those who prefer what “natural” proponents deplore as “industrial wine” — i.e., the kind most of us have loved all our lives — are left thirsty.
Compare that with Eric Asimov's piece in today's Times:
Instead, Frenchette has gone off the rails, charting a completely different course. The wine director, Jorge Riera, has put together a list that is entirely, uncompromisingly, focused on natural wines, a controversial genre in which the grapes are farmed organically at the least, and the wine produced with minimal artifice or manipulation.
In short, it’s a challenging list that may annoy some people who want recognizable names, yet is also brilliant. Mr. Riera, the wine director who came to Frenchette from Contra and Wildair, has built a list full of wonderful discoveries, great values and the sort of direct, unmediated experiences that characterize natural wines at their best. Almost all the wines are low in alcohol as well, 13 percent or less, and they go very well with the cuisine.
To each his or her own, I guess.