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LaRina Pastaficio & Vino

Italian Pasta Fort Greene

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#1 Sneakeater

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Posted 29 June 2018 - 07:19 PM

LaRina is nice little pasta-and-wine spot that opened on Myrtle Avenue in Fort Greene.  It's a neighborhood place -- but a quite good one.

 

What I like about it is that the cooking is fresh, imaginative, and light.  You don't see the same too-heavy rustic Italian dishes they serve at every trattoria in every neighborhood in the City.  These are all freshly conceived -- and very deftly so.  The cooking is deft, too.  (Surprisingly so for a place like this.)

 

I started with a pea and farro salad, which was nice.  Then the rye fazzoletti with ramp pesto and burrata, which was more than nice, the sheets of pasta bathed in a flavorful pesto that nevertheless wasn't overly rich.  Then, perhaps the biggest surprise:  the octopus in basil pesto (I guess it was pesto night for me), a dish I was sure would be boring but was beautifully composed (nice complementary flavors and textures) and beautifully cooked.

 

The place this seems most like to me is Lilia -- but I like this place better; I think Missy Robbins's cooking at Lilia is too heavy-handed.

 

On the other, there's nothing that this place does that Faro doesn't do better.  But (remember: "neighborhood" spot) I can't walk to and from Farro (I mean, I can -- but it's a schlep).

 

If you happen to live or otherwise find yourself in the neighborhood, though, this is a solid recommendation.

 

COMP DISCLOSURE:  An amaro.


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