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Le Clarence: Chateau Haut-Brion’s luxury Paris Restaurant


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#1 Robert Brown

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Posted 13 November 2018 - 04:12 AM

Several of the more sophisticated gastronomic travelers and writers I know consider Le Clarence, the restaurant off the Champs-elysee, to be the best recent addition to the Paris haute-cuisine scene in years. They all love it. The highly-regarded wine and restaurant writer and founder of Gastromondiale Vedat Milor has written a compelling review you will find here:

https://www.gastromo...nch-fine-dining

#2 Orik

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Posted 13 November 2018 - 03:42 PM

The chefs handled the fish perfectly, i.e. they did not compromise the firm flesh, yet the fish retained its juiciness.

 

 

Gee, I wonder what is such a cooking technique where the fish is firm and juicy, still very pink but obviously cooked.  :D

 

That John Dory too, is cooked "unilateral".


sandwiches that are large and filling and do not contain tuna or prawns

#3 Adrian

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Posted 13 November 2018 - 04:19 PM

you say sous vide, i say cvap. 


I think you need to interpret what I'm saying in a reasonable way.


#4 Adrian

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Posted 13 November 2018 - 04:20 PM

i do say that the cooking here, along with recent instagram posts on ledoyen, looks very compelling and the kind of cooking one would wear a tie for. 


I think you need to interpret what I'm saying in a reasonable way.


#5 Orik

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Posted 13 November 2018 - 05:17 PM

If I had to have a business meeting there I wouldn't mind (and then I'd be wearing a tie anyway!), but otherwise it'd be hard to convince me it's worth going back. 


sandwiches that are large and filling and do not contain tuna or prawns

#6 Adrian

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Posted 13 November 2018 - 06:16 PM

oddly, i did not read your review that way I took:

 

"Delicious overall but now what you expect from a two star place in 2018. "

 

and most of the rest of your review to be pretty strong praise on the Orik scale. 

 

I did not take you as someone to wear a tie to a business meeting. 


I think you need to interpret what I'm saying in a reasonable way.


#7 Orik

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Posted 13 November 2018 - 07:40 PM

First, maybe that typo is misleading - now -> not.

 

Second, I wrote what I intended - if there was a meal booked there and I had to go, I wouldn't mind, but there just isn't something about the food that compels me to return.


sandwiches that are large and filling and do not contain tuna or prawns

#8 Adrian

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Posted 13 November 2018 - 07:58 PM

no, typo wasn't misleading, definitely doesn't look like what you would expect from a 2 star in 2018. just the review seemed more enthusiastic than what you describe now. 


I think you need to interpret what I'm saying in a reasonable way.


#9 Adrian

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Posted 13 November 2018 - 11:33 PM

Maybe to build on the thought, what are you looking for in a two star place in 2018? Or, at least, if we’re taking about a place that is cooking traditionally - assuming that assessment is correct - where is Clarence falling short? The initial comments - stunning, ethereal and very good - were suggestive of a meal that, but for the fancy modernist oven, was operating at a pretty high level.

(Maybe it’s because I generally think of your preferences as being in line with Milor)

I think you need to interpret what I'm saying in a reasonable way.


#10 balex

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Posted 17 April 2019 - 06:16 PM

Ok, Le Clarence is really pretty good. Very grand , impeccable service, some decent wine at reasonably sane markups. I got the 5 course option, which was quite a lot of food as each course apart from the cheese course was 5 dishes. The cheese was excellent. The food, was not quite cutting edge insanely delicious, but there were a lot of very good things to eat. Only a few genuinely brown dishes. A few mild asian touches (some XO sauce or something that tasted just like it at one point I think).

 

For example the meat course was some quite young lamb, with an anchovy on top, some squid ink jus, some other jus, with a side plate of a large tasty morel mushroom with some ham, and another side plate of a deep fried artichoke with some foie gras on top, and another side dish of a little strip of crispy lamb (breast) with a little crunchy salad.

 

Not texturally very interesting overall.

 

If you want to dress up and go somewhere fancy this would be a very good choice. And it's kind of good value in the context of that type of restaurant in Paris.



#11 balex

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Posted 17 April 2019 - 06:21 PM

I even wore a tie.