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Paul Liebrandt @ Chefs Club


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#16 Orik

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Posted 02 April 2019 - 03:13 PM

Ok, so yesterday they gave us the menu with two options - a $95 menu that includes amuse + app + main + dessert (with supplements for duck and caviar), or, confusingly, a "spring extravaganza menu" that for $175 adds another amuse and main but excludes the supplemented items. 

 

The waiter then said "there are three ways to enjoy our menu - the $95  menu which the recommended way, the spring extravaganza, and" (very quickly and quietly) "a la carte". We pointed out we weren't given the a la carte menus, which were then produced but were clearly out of date - I see the a la carte option is now gone from the website too. As it turns out, if you don't care about dessert, the $95 menu offers no advantage at all, so we took:

 

Crab donuts - these were not donuts at all, but buns filled with very good crab meat and too much mayo (the act of using the mayo to prevent the donut from rolling off the pedestal on top of which it was prevented was not cool) and too cold.

 

Smoked uni tart - really mostly very good trout roe. I don't think that I'd even know the smoked layer was uni but okay. At this point, while we're picking up roe that fell off the tart when we cut it, a busboy tried to grab the dish from our hands. We told him we're still eating but he came back seconds later and I asked him to go away and not come back. 

 

Hiramasa with ice leaf, cucumber, and meyer lemon. Very good and the only dish of the evening that even hinted at previous PL level creativeness. 

 

Caviar with a cream of hearts of palm and a very nice waffle with hints of sesame. Excellent combo. There was also some whipped cream with kaffir lime that we couldn't eat because that's the smell of the monopoly bathroom cleaner in 1970s Israel. 

 

Black bass stuffed with scallop, with pistachio pesto. The pesto with dozens of little vegetables and leaves was stellar, but the fish... sous vide at very low temp, the scallop not meat glued to it or anything but just placed in a slit in the middle. No crisp on the skin, just layers of flabby things that really were both too soft and too rubbery. We were comped the dish as we only ate the sauce. 

 

Aged wild duck with wild canela - this was a very good dish and given the size and current pricing, $90+ for it was very reasonable. Sure, the duck is not wild at all, and not particularly aged, and the skin on the breast is mostly not crispy but the glazing burned in the places where it is crispy and various other little quibbles but still if it were possible to come back just for this and the caviar, I would. 

 

It's on one hand impressive that with modern technique a very small kitchen team can pull this off and serve a potentially very large room without the chef present, and on the other hand it's a disappointing outcome both from a creative perspective and from a quality + ingredient fraud perspective. 


sandwiches that are large and filling and do not contain tuna or prawns

#17 Wilfrid

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Posted 02 April 2019 - 05:36 PM

It would destroy my evening if I was served non-wild wild duck.  The main reason Rocco DiSpirito took a long break from New York kitchens was my reaction to being served pigeon at Union Pacific and told it was grouse.

 

The smoked uni tart reminds me of the ocean parfait at Sparrow & Wolf last week, although the trout roe was smoked, and there were some good pieces of unsmoked uni.



#18 Sneakeater

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Posted 02 April 2019 - 07:02 PM

When I went, we were given an a la carte menu with the prix fix option listed at the bottom, and were told that there was also the extended chef's menu (which one of us in fact was required to get, as I had told them of her rather severe medically required dietary restrictions in advance, and PL had worked out a special dinner for her).  I just ordered a like number of dishes a la carte (which was expensive, but life's like that).


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#19 joethefoodie

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Posted 05 April 2019 - 10:52 PM

Oy.



#20 Orik

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Posted 05 April 2019 - 11:13 PM

It would destroy my evening if I was served non-wild wild duck.  The main reason Rocco DiSpirito took a long break from New York kitchens was my reaction to being served pigeon at Union Pacific and told it was grouse.

 

 

I was curious, because as far as I know (and I know), there's nobody selling wild duck here right now. Of course when I ordered it I already saw the very large breasts being presented to other tables so I wasn't surprised. It's still the very wrong thing to do and PL should know better. 


sandwiches that are large and filling and do not contain tuna or prawns

#21 Sneakeater

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Posted 06 April 2019 - 01:18 AM

You can get Wild Turkey at the bar
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#22 Wilfrid

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Posted 06 April 2019 - 01:49 AM

It is wrong, and I don’t want to be asking “Is it mallard or widgeon,” and get the answer “It’s duck, it’s wild.”

And then it will be, “I’ll ask the chef,” and “No, he’s bigger than me and he knows who I am.”

#23 Sneakeater

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Posted 06 April 2019 - 03:37 AM

Bring a very very big book.
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#24 Orik

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Posted 06 April 2019 - 12:29 PM

You can get Wild Turkey at the bar


And there's a Jameson (sic) lamb on the menu now.
sandwiches that are large and filling and do not contain tuna or prawns

#25 Wilfrid

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Posted 07 April 2019 - 12:59 AM

I have bought actual wild duck in Chinatown, maybe a year ago. The big supermarket on Hesther.

#26 Rich

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Posted 07 April 2019 - 03:04 PM

Have a lot of them outside my house in Clove Lake Park. People do (illegally) catch and kill them.

#27 Anthony Bonner

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Posted 11 April 2019 - 12:36 PM

I'm sad.

"This is a battle of who blinks first, and we've cut off our eyelids"


#28 Wilfrid

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Posted 13 April 2019 - 10:54 PM

Booked. Have to go near the end of the season. Hope springs eternal.

#29 Sneakeater

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Posted 13 April 2019 - 11:13 PM

Easy to walk into the bar
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#30 Wilfrid

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Posted 14 April 2019 - 12:57 AM

I reserved the counter. Will Paul glower familiarly at me, or will it be a bunch of cooks trying to follow his instructions?