This isn't what I did this time, but here could be an interesting walk: hail a "servees" taxi1 and tell him to drop you off at souk el haraj. He will pull up to what looks like an apocalypse on a hill but he will point you to a doorway in the opposite direction that leads into the souks. Take GPS with you, and just walk around. Go early so you can buy ka'ak from a guy with a pushcart and a charcoal grill. I never realised this until much later, but this is a micro local product. You can't get this particular kind even outside of the old part of Tripoli. Ask for it with cheese (jibneh). Disregard my aunts' fear of listeria. People here survive by the quality of their business, my impression is they really take care.
Check out khan-el-khayattin (Taylors' row), souk el Dahab (the jewellers souk), khan el saboon (soap makers khan). Continue through souk el Attarin (herb and fragrance souk) and eventually you'll get to the butchers, fishmongers, veg & fruit sellers etc. Not as pretty but interesting. You could pass by Hammam el Nour (we were just able to walk in unattended). The mansouri mosque is a quiet spot but women will need to cover up (can rent from the gate.)
Walk towards the Sultan Abdel-Hamid clocktower. This is probably what downtown Beirut would look like if it hadn't been turned into Disneyland. You are ready for lunch, and not far from Akra, the best hummus place in town. Actually hummus is fine, but since you're here get the Fatteh, because where else? After that, dessert can be had at Rafaat Hallab, the very first of what is now a super popular chain across the Middle East, and the best arabic sweets period. (NOT a home bias here ) My favourite are znoud-el-sit, which do not exist outside the Lebanon for whatever reason, at least not in this quality. These look like egg rolls, fried flaky pastry, but with clotted cream (kasha) inside, and candied orange blossom petals on top, drizzled with syrup. They don't travel at all. Here's a photo. Goes extremely well with a Lebanese coffee.
By now you will be feeling very, very full. Hail another servees to the Maa'rad (The Oscar Niemeyer fairgrounds) 2 and walk off the calories.
1. recognisable by the red license plates. Even more recognisable by the fact that you can't walk anywhere without every one of them honking at you and yelling "servees?" out the window. Here's a good link explaining how this works.
2. I learned how to drive in the parking lot.
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