Adrian, we'll just have to agree to disagree about Son of a Gun.
But what is the case? I see in a world where the Spotted Pig and Uncle Boons and State Bird Provisions have stars, it starts to look weird that Son of a Gun is unstarred because then you're arguing over whether it is marginally better or worse than other high-level, but ultimately upper-midrange, restaurants. But my premise is that starring these kinds of places, except in some really unique circumstances, is not in line with what Michelin is good at doing (and has historically done in Europe). If you're operating in a world where your one stars are Cafe Boulud, Aldea, and Gramercy Tavern (or Trois Mec maybe), the argument for Son of a Gun, no matter how great you think it is and even if you think that it executes its proffer better than Boulud, starts to look weak. Remember, the idea of starring Le Chateaubriande was a controversial one, and it operates in an idiom much closer to what I am talking about than Son of a Gun.