Jump to content


Photo

Reviewing "Ethnic" Restaurants

Edward Lee Chimes In

  • Please log in to reply
53 replies to this topic

#46 Sneakeater

Sneakeater

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 64,529 posts

Posted 03 July 2019 - 02:53 PM

my steak was salted to death,

 

So she DID come from The Grill!


Bar Loser

MF Old

#47 Orik

Orik

    Advanced Member

  • Technocrat
  • PipPipPip
  • 22,108 posts

Posted 03 July 2019 - 02:53 PM

Hey, at least half of the odd sauce wasn't cold. 


sandwiches that are large and filling and do not contain tuna or prawns

#48 Sneakeater

Sneakeater

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 64,529 posts

Posted 03 July 2019 - 03:00 PM

I thought the cold sauce on the steak was kind of on purpose (not that I liked it).


Bar Loser

MF Old

#49 Daniel

Daniel

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 14,066 posts

Posted 03 July 2019 - 03:07 PM

If it's any consolation, there is some really delicious vegan ice cream to be had across the street at Van Lewin.. I never liked their regular ice cream but, they seemed to have found a niche with this vegan stuff. 


Ason, I keep planets in orbit.

#50 Sneakeater

Sneakeater

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 64,529 posts

Posted 03 July 2019 - 03:35 PM

I'll eat real ice cream at Ample Hills.


Bar Loser

MF Old

#51 AaronS

AaronS

    Advanced Member

  • Admin
  • PipPipPip
  • 5,826 posts

Posted 03 July 2019 - 04:55 PM

the warm portion of the sauce was better.

#52 Adrian

Adrian

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 9,924 posts

Posted 06 July 2019 - 01:54 PM

It is complicated, but I don't think that analogy works.

 

I'm thinking about someone like you or me, who has eaten in hundreds of restaurants, various cuisines. Confronted with a cuisine with which we're unfamiliar, there are a lot of things we won't be qualified to say about it. But I think we could tell whether it's good eating at a good price (in the neighborhood -- I add this qualifier, because I don't mean we could say it represents good food at good value in comparison with other places in its native region).

 

Real life example: I don't think you needed to be an expert in Thai cuisine, or have visited Thailand, to tell that Sripraphai was (in its day) one of the best places to get Thai cuisine in the city. Or maybe better example, Ihawan: I don't think I'd eaten much Filipino food first time I went, but I wasn't unable to tell whether the food they were sending out was any good (it was).

 

ETA: This maybe obvious, but with rare examples, an experienced eater with have encountered the ingredients and the cooking techniques before.  The fundamentals don't change much.

 

 

That's pretty congruent with Sneak's point, I think. Certainly, an experienced and thoughtful food person can generally tell things are directionally right (just as an experienced pop music critic should, I would hope, be able to tell if a piece of music is well played), but, as you say, context is really important. Sri is a great example. Peak Sri would not be noteworthy in Thailand. It was good, but there's lots of good Thai food in Bangkok. A critic experienced Thai critic with limited knowledge of NYC might miss that it was great for NYC, and vice versa.

 

Where I think critics need to be careful is mistaking something good and new and different for something really specially. The first time I had somtum at Sri, coming from a place with zero good Thai food in an absolute sense, my first experience of somtum at Sri was a revelation.  I legit thought that this was three-star cooking. It wasn't. It was just good somtum and I wouldn't feel that way now. But I was still correct that it was good. 


I think you need to interpret what I'm saying in a reasonable way.


#53 Wilfrid

Wilfrid

    Advanced Member

  • Admin
  • PipPipPip
  • 86,548 posts

Posted 07 July 2019 - 12:07 AM

I think we’re all in agreement. The critic needs to bear her limitations in mind.

#54 Orik

Orik

    Advanced Member

  • Technocrat
  • PipPipPip
  • 22,108 posts

Posted 07 July 2019 - 09:39 PM

I think it's easy to tell that shipping container cuisine is not going to be world class. How many discounts are you willing to give it because it's still fucking delicious is another question, to which I suspect three NYT stars is not the answer.
sandwiches that are large and filling and do not contain tuna or prawns