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"Appetizing"


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#1 Rose

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Posted 10 May 2005 - 06:55 PM

For Mothers' Day I served an assortment of smoked fish from Russ and Daughters (LES, NYC). I made the pilgrimage there (I exaggerate, I live about 2 miles away :) ) as I have done for a number of years now, on Saturday and was charmed and entertained by Mark, third generation owner and his son, fourth generation.

The place is now one of the last great monuments to Eastern European forspice left in Manhattan. It maintains its original charm and scents and people-watching there is a delight in itself.

In any case, I bought western nova, Gaspe nova, Irish salmon, Scottish salmon, baked salmon, white fish, sable, sturgeon, herring in cream sauce and herring in wine sauce as well as lots of accoutrements.

I also considered getting stuffed, smoked trout but decided against, thinking I had really gone overboard. We were only nine people and I had already gotten, I don't know, about 6 lbs of fish.

For the uninitiated, this is all cold smoked fish. I don't even think smoked is the correct way to describe it because there is minimal smoky flavor in anything other than the white fish. The texture of the fish in all cases is close to that of raw but there is a silken and buttery quality to the flesh and, of course, saltiness.

If things continue to go as they have been going this kind of shop will be extinct in our lifetimes. Not that they don't do a bang-up business including mail-order but when I was a kid, every Jewish neighborhood had an "Appetizing Store" and now there's really only Barney Greengrass, Murray's Sturgeon Shop and Russ and Daughters. Everything else is more new world than old.

Anything about "appetizing” that you'd all like to share with the rest of us? What should I have gotten that I didn't?
curb your god

If we believe absurdities, we shall commit atrocities. (Voltaire)


One is often told that it is very wrong to attack religion because religion makes men virtuous. So I am told; I have not noticed it. (Bertrand Russell)

Believing there is no god gives me more room for belief in family, people, love, truth, beauty, sex, Jell-O, and all things I can prove and that make this life the best life I will ever have. (Penn Jillette)

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#2 Daisy

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Posted 10 May 2005 - 07:08 PM

The smoked salmon tartare. Not traditional, I know, but deeelicious.
Sardines aren't for sissies.---Frank Bruni
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The mistake one makes is to react to what people post rather than to what they mean.---Dr. Johnson
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#3 Rose

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Posted 10 May 2005 - 07:11 PM

Is it solely chopped up salmon or are there other mix-ins such as onion, etc?
curb your god

If we believe absurdities, we shall commit atrocities. (Voltaire)


One is often told that it is very wrong to attack religion because religion makes men virtuous. So I am told; I have not noticed it. (Bertrand Russell)

Believing there is no god gives me more room for belief in family, people, love, truth, beauty, sex, Jell-O, and all things I can prove and that make this life the best life I will ever have. (Penn Jillette)

CERES GALLERY

#4 Daisy

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Posted 10 May 2005 - 07:13 PM

Onions and chives I believe. Very finely chopped.
Sardines aren't for sissies.---Frank Bruni
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The mistake one makes is to react to what people post rather than to what they mean.---Dr. Johnson
-------------------------------------------------------------
I want to be the girl with the most cake.

#5 bloviatrix

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Posted 10 May 2005 - 07:19 PM

What you're leaving out is the wonderful conversation in Trillin's Tepper Isn't Going Out where the counterman at Russ & Daughters recounts a conversation he had about a "nice whitefish." I lent my copy out otherwise I would quote it.

To me, the perfect end to a meal made up of appetizing is baked farmer cheese (preferably walnut raisin) and a babka. Ahh, soul food.
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#6 Guest_Suzanne F_*

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Posted 10 May 2005 - 07:23 PM

Aaaaaaaaaah, sable. When I was growing up, I think we sometimes called it "sturgeon." Nowadays it's also known as black cod, although not in appetizing circles. Oh, the rich oiliness! The delicate whiteness against the paprikaed outside.

(We bought our appetizing from a store in a shopping center [NOT MALL!!!] Glen Oaks, Queens, NY which also had a great bakery, Tip Top. But the bagels came from yet another store, possibly in a different shopping center.)

#7 StephanieL

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Posted 10 May 2005 - 07:24 PM

To me, the perfect end to a meal made up of appetizing is baked farmer cheese (preferably walnut raisin) and a babka. Ahh, soul food.

And Russ & Daughters sells great chocolate babka! I also like their salads (whitefish, baked salmon).

For me, the "appetizing" experience includes halvah and dried fruit, especially apricots. When we would visit Irving's in our old neighborhood in Brooklyn (Avenue P between McDonald Avenue and Ocean Parkway), that's what we'd get along with the fish.

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#8 Daisy

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Posted 10 May 2005 - 07:28 PM

The Shopwell in Scarsdale, where I did some of my growing up, had a large 'appetizing' department with pretty decent stuff. It was heavily patronized by my dad, who may have been Irish-American but grew up in the Bronx and knew and loved his appetizing.
Sardines aren't for sissies.---Frank Bruni
------------------------------------------------------------
The mistake one makes is to react to what people post rather than to what they mean.---Dr. Johnson
-------------------------------------------------------------
I want to be the girl with the most cake.

#9 Rose

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Posted 10 May 2005 - 07:50 PM

To me, the perfect end to a meal made up of appetizing is baked farmer cheese (preferably walnut raisin) and a babka.  Ahh, soul food.

And Russ & Daughters sells great chocolate babka! I also like their salads (whitefish, baked salmon).

For me, the "appetizing" experience includes halvah and dried fruit, especially apricots. When we would visit Irving's in our old neighborhood in Brooklyn (Avenue P between McDonald Avenue and Ocean Parkway), that's what we'd get along with the fish.

I got the halavah (halvah?), marble with pistachios and two pounds of rugalach. I ordered it like this: "I'll have two pounds of rugala formerly known as rugalach(gutteral with added spitting)!!!" Sometimes it's hard to know if someone wants dessert or salad, the way people have bastardized the word.

I didn't get their bagels because THEY SUCK.

Baked farmers' cheese is wonderful but I didn't get it.

One of my favorite things is herring in cream sauce on well-buttered pumpernickel topped with the onions from the herring. Mwah.
curb your god

If we believe absurdities, we shall commit atrocities. (Voltaire)


One is often told that it is very wrong to attack religion because religion makes men virtuous. So I am told; I have not noticed it. (Bertrand Russell)

Believing there is no god gives me more room for belief in family, people, love, truth, beauty, sex, Jell-O, and all things I can prove and that make this life the best life I will ever have. (Penn Jillette)

CERES GALLERY

#10 Guest_Suzanne F_*

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Posted 10 May 2005 - 07:59 PM

What, no matjes herring or schmaltz herring? Or is one of those now called "h... in wine sauce"?

No pickled lox? In fact, no belly lox at all??? Sorry, I have never gotten the idea of nova as something much worth eating.

#11 Rose

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Posted 10 May 2005 - 08:09 PM

All the herring I bought was schmaltz herring, some in wine sauce and some in cream sauce. That's what the label said. It also referred to it being Russian style.

Everything else you mention, I was drooling for but knew there was a limited audience for in this group. Belly lox is what I was brought up on. I like it best of all. Did you ever have a "wing"? The case where the pickled lox was has my nose print on it. :D

edit: belly lox....hmmm.... like belly tuna? toro? :)
curb your god

If we believe absurdities, we shall commit atrocities. (Voltaire)


One is often told that it is very wrong to attack religion because religion makes men virtuous. So I am told; I have not noticed it. (Bertrand Russell)

Believing there is no god gives me more room for belief in family, people, love, truth, beauty, sex, Jell-O, and all things I can prove and that make this life the best life I will ever have. (Penn Jillette)

CERES GALLERY

#12 Abbylovi

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Posted 10 May 2005 - 08:14 PM

I also considered getting stuffed, smoked trout but decided against, thinking I had really gone overboard.

Lippy turned me on to this. There is no such thing as going overboard when you're talking stuffed, smoked trout.
It is better to have beans and bacon in peace than cakes and ale in fear.

#13 bloviatrix

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Posted 10 May 2005 - 08:16 PM

The hotel we stayed at over Passover offered sable ever morning for breakfast. It was nice slab with that great smokey flavor and wonderful mouthfeel. Then for lunch they offered chubs. Needless to say, I think I gave off the smell of smoked fish most days. :)

Of course, this thread is making me crave whitefish salad.
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#14 Guest_Suzanne F_*

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Posted 10 May 2005 - 08:27 PM

What was the trout stuffed with? (although that sounds a bit fancy-schmansy -- not unappealing, but fancier than I think of for "appetizing")

#15 Lippy

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Posted 10 May 2005 - 08:29 PM

The stuffing is smoked trout mousse. It is a little fancy, but it's good.