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#1 omnivorette

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Posted 25 March 2004 - 04:05 PM

Another lovely meal and evening at Hearth.

Two new things on the menu which I enjoyed very much: a rich and also delicate beef consomme, with asparagus and....marrow! Delicious. Also, a salad of fava beans and pecorino - it's a "special" currently, but is to be on the much-anticipated-soon-to-be-released Spring menu. I particularly noticed the abundant olive oil - flavorful without being overpowering - very nice.

Also, parts of the wine list are on "sale" for 25% off, to make room for new selections which will be on the list as Spring progresses. The whole Rheingau/Pfalz section is included, as well as selections from Napa and Gevrey-Chambertin. Some delightful bargains to be had. The ever-helpful Hailey steered me toward a bottle of Riesling Trocken, Dr. Burkin-Wolf, 2001 (Pfalz) which was a terrific accompaniment to what we ate. My companion had a glass of an Austrian apple cider (Reisetbauer Schamwein) to start, which was lovely.

For those of you who haven't yet sampled the winter menu - hurry before it's gone until next year! Don't miss the monkfish osso bucco...
"It seems a positively Quixotic quest to defend food from being used as any kind of social signifier, as if it could avoid the fate of each other component of our everyday lives." -Wilfrid

#2 Abbylovi

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Posted 25 March 2004 - 04:12 PM

Can you find out what kind of olive oil that is? I remember liking whatever it was.

How are they handling the review? Are they packed?
It is better to have beans and bacon in peace than cakes and ale in fear.

#3 Orik

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Posted 25 March 2004 - 04:13 PM

Considering that the wine you had is a $20 bottle, listed (I believe) around $80 at Hearth, a 25% discount is not very impressive. Same goes for the $130 Armand Rousseau GC 98...

sandwiches that are large and filling and do not contain tuna or prawns


#4 omnivorette

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Posted 25 March 2004 - 04:40 PM

Where did you find that Riesling for $20/bottle????

I'll ask what the olive oil is - I'll be there again next week.

Yes, they're packed. But I never sit at a table anymore.

It's getting to be a bit "Cheers" - like for me in there.
"It seems a positively Quixotic quest to defend food from being used as any kind of social signifier, as if it could avoid the fate of each other component of our everyday lives." -Wilfrid

#5 dilettantepicure

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Posted 25 March 2004 - 04:55 PM

Oh yes, and the Gnocchi -- my god, the Gnocchi. Remember "Defending Your Life"? Well MY never ending bowl of food would be Marco's Gnocchi. It's "Marco", right Omni? (sorry, I couldn't help that) Well -- Have y'all had his Gnocchi? Please do go before it fades into last season's memories of impossible weightless fluffiness.

As my Indian friend says, experiencing the universal sublime about the Gnocchi: "It's like ghee"


And by the by -- with dinner there we drank a bottle of wine called "An", short for "Anima Negra". Anima Negra is a product of Mallorca; it's indigenous varietal is Callet. I'm finding it hard to get a hold of -- but if you find it, try it. Red, big, bold, extremely round but with enough enough tanins to give it plenty of backbone and a whole tapestry of flavors transmuting in your olfactory... Mmmm. If you can get a hold of it, looks to retail for around $30, depending on the vintage. '98 seems to be the big winner : Spectator gave it a '90 -- but the '99 we had was divine. It's beeing called a "cult wine" -- new and hard to find. And TOO yummy. (distributor/importer - Jorge Ordonez {Tempranillo})

Gnocchi and An
Many are cold, few are frozen.

#6 omnivorette

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Posted 25 March 2004 - 04:58 PM

My goodness, Dill! You have done your homework!

I did like that Anima Negra very much. Have been meaning to get in touch with Tempranillo and find it, but haven't yet.

The gnocchi are staying on the menu.

Interesting thing about the gnocchi - Marco accidentally left out egg yolks some days ago, and they were better. He then found out that the real gnocchi mavens don't use egg yolks anyway. He is pleased.
"It seems a positively Quixotic quest to defend food from being used as any kind of social signifier, as if it could avoid the fate of each other component of our everyday lives." -Wilfrid

#7 Orik

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Posted 25 March 2004 - 05:03 PM

Where did you find that Riesling for $20/bottle????

I have a very good source for german rieslings ;)

But I checked again and retail seems over $30, making it less of a rip off.

Still, I fail to understand why people care so much for their food or their wine list. So they can make gnocchi, big deal.

sandwiches that are large and filling and do not contain tuna or prawns


#8 omnivorette

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Posted 25 March 2004 - 05:10 PM

Orik, I really really like the food there. My piece of monkfish last night was tender, meaty, flavorful, abundant. The accompanying risotto was rich, beautiful-looking, perfectly textured, with rings of squid mixed in - and the fish's sauce is perfect for the dish.

The vibrant green of those favabeans - gorgeous.

I think his braised meats are delicious. And I'm crazy about his chicken dish.

His treatment of vegetables pleases me no end- not fussy, he lets the vegetables shine in all their glory...

Every bite I eat there makes me happy. It's homey, accessible, completely void of pretense, and enjoyable.

Plus the service could not be friendlier, more eager, or more helpful. There isn't another restaurant in NYC (barring Ali, of course) where I want to spend an evening more.

I also think their cheese plate is terrific - nothing terribly unusual, but nicely presented - I like the accompaniments (huckleberries, honey, figs, dates were on the plate last night), and the cheese are served in perfect condition, at the right temperatures.

Have you sampled a number of dishes there?
"It seems a positively Quixotic quest to defend food from being used as any kind of social signifier, as if it could avoid the fate of each other component of our everyday lives." -Wilfrid

#9 Rail Paul

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Posted 25 March 2004 - 05:12 PM

Orik, I really really like the food there. My piece of monkfish last night was tender, meaty, flavorful, abundant. The accompanying risotto was rich, beautiful-looking, perfectly textured, with rings of squid mixed in - and the fish's sauce is perfect for the dish.

The vibrant green of those favabeans - gorgeous.

I think his braised meats are delicious. And I'm crazy about his chicken dish.

His treatment of vegetables pleases me no end- not fussy, he lets the vegetables shine in all their glory...

Every bite I eat there makes me happy. It's homey, accessible, completely void of pretense, and enjoyable.

Plus the service could not be friendlier, more eager, or more helpful. There isn't another restaurant in NYC (barring Ali, of course) where I want to spend an evening more.

I also think their cheese plate is terrific - nothing terribly unusual, but nicely presented - I like the accompaniments (huckleberries, honey, figs, dates were on the plate last night), and the cheese are served in perfect condition, at the right temperatures.

Have you sampled a number of dishes there?


That's a very thoughtful review. Detailed, specific, evaluative.

thank you for sharing...
“It must be remembered that there is nothing more difficult to plan, more doubtful of success, nor more dangerous to manage than a new system. For the initiator has the enmity of all who would profit by the preservation of the old institution and merely lukewarm defenders in those who gain by the new ones. ”
Niccolò Machiavelli

#10 dilettantepicure

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Posted 25 March 2004 - 05:17 PM

Omni - did you really taste the Gnocchi without the egg? Was that not like the chicken with out the bone/the cherry without the stone?

Truly - did they defy gravity and practically fly away like the . no, I'd better not...

Anyway - These I gotta taste...
Many are cold, few are frozen.

#11 omnivorette

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Posted 25 March 2004 - 05:17 PM

I want to add that I think Hearth is terrific because it succeeds in its category. It is not trying to be WD-50. It is not trying to be Mix. Or anything else.

It is trying to be exactly what it has manged to make itself - and it is executing its vision for itself perfectly, in my opinion.
"It seems a positively Quixotic quest to defend food from being used as any kind of social signifier, as if it could avoid the fate of each other component of our everyday lives." -Wilfrid

#12 omnivorette

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Posted 25 March 2004 - 05:17 PM

Omni - did you really taste the Gnocchi without the egg? Was that not like the chicken with out the bone/the cherry without the stone?

Truly - did they defy gravity and practically fly away like the . no, I'd better not...

Anyway - These I gotta taste...

Yes, I had the gnocchi last night - no egg yolks. Light and wonderful.
"It seems a positively Quixotic quest to defend food from being used as any kind of social signifier, as if it could avoid the fate of each other component of our everyday lives." -Wilfrid

#13 dilettantepicure

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Posted 25 March 2004 - 05:22 PM

And by the way Omni - Were you able to convince Marco that he needs something other than sesame encrusted baguette slices to serve with his lovely cheese platters, which *clearly* deserve something better and far more neutral...?

Have you looked around for a groovy alternative or will he wind up baking something of his own do you think?

This is most urgent, no? - a big gaping hole in near perfection through which many a cheese-plate has already tumbled....
Many are cold, few are frozen.

#14 omnivorette

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Posted 25 March 2004 - 05:24 PM

Yes, actually I have.

He is being presented with several options from the Sullivan St. Bakery today, as a matter of fact.

Whatever they choose will be plain, plain, plain.

Phew.
"It seems a positively Quixotic quest to defend food from being used as any kind of social signifier, as if it could avoid the fate of each other component of our everyday lives." -Wilfrid

#15 dilettantepicure

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Posted 25 March 2004 - 05:27 PM

So they can make gnocchi, big deal.



Gnocchi has never been a big deal until now. But Marco makes the best Gnocchi I've ever tasted. That's kind-of a big deal, no?

Have you tried it? If You tried it and you thought it was no big deal - never mind.
Many are cold, few are frozen.