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Restaurant culture: a new idea?


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#91 Sneakeater

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Posted 15 May 2013 - 04:05 PM


I was thinking of the target market from the viewpoint of the restaurants.


The target market seems to me to be the key aspect to the present situation. Like politicians, chefs have stopped directing their efforts towards the relatively few individuals who had some 'understanding' of their craft, and have turned their attention to a vast ocean of 'consumers', who respond to a quite different set of stimuli. Given that the marketing of chefs is now so superficial, it's unsurprising that those who respond to that marketing demand an equally superficial experience for their money. Indeed, most new food seems designed not just to be eaten, but to have an independent life as a sound-bite. For this reason, many of the highest profile restaurants offer one-off experiences, in which the idea of a meal so delicious that one would wish to return is usurped by an experience that can be dropped into conversation and thus transcend the restaurant context to serve as valuable social currency in terms of building one's status.
 



Just needed to be quoted in 2013.
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#92 Lex

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Posted 15 May 2013 - 07:37 PM


I was thinking of the target market from the viewpoint of the restaurants.


The target market seems to me to be the key aspect to the present situation. Like politicians, chefs have stopped directing their efforts towards the relatively few individuals who had some 'understanding' of their craft, and have turned their attention to a vast ocean of 'consumers', who respond to a quite different set of stimuli. Given that the marketing of chefs is now so superficial, it's unsurprising that those who respond to that marketing demand an equally superficial experience for their money. Indeed, most new food seems designed not just to be eaten, but to have an independent life as a sound-bite. For this reason, many of the highest profile restaurants offer one-off experiences, in which the idea of a meal so delicious that one would wish to return is usurped by an experience that can be dropped into conversation and thus transcend the restaurant context to serve as valuable social currency in terms of building one's status.
 

 


Just needed to be quoted in 2013.

 

He was channeling EMP.


"I don't understand what's wrong with thinking of correlation as a pricing convention the way one thinks of Black-Scholes vol. I mean, vol curves aren't "real" anyway, but nobody uses local vol models to price vanilla options." - Taion
 
"But this is blatant ultracrepidarianism on my part." - Taion

I have a dream of a multiplicity of pastramis.

"once the penis came out, there was discussions as to why we didn't order the testicles" - Daniel describing a meal in China

#93 Adrian

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Posted 15 May 2013 - 07:43 PM

That's very useful, Cabby, and I think it fits with my very, very rough notion that there was a move in France, which began, at least, some time around the late 1970s away from a standard canon of cuisine - essentially the one established by Escoffier - toward a concept that chefs themselves were expected to innovate rather than merely improve or perfect. Cuisine des auteurs is a neat way of looking at. Young chefs in New York today, are expected to be auteurs as soon as they take the helm.

On the latter point, true, but I was thinking of the target market from the viewpoint of the restaurants.

To the point where someone like Liquid would say that you can't have a very top restaurant without having an "auteur" chef.

This is interesting. Two thoughts:

 

1. Wilfrid left out "technical innovation" from his very good list.

2. It's interesting to compare the San Pelligrino list with the Michelin France 3 star list. The Michelin list contains a number of restaurants, if not a majority of restaurants, that are not run by auteur chefs but instead very talented tradesomen (meilleure ouvriers if you will). Almost non of those restaurants appear on the SP list.


I think you need to interpret what I'm saying in a reasonable way.


#94 Wilfrid

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Posted 16 May 2013 - 02:31 PM

I have no memory of this.  I will have to go see what I wrote.

 

ETA: God, floating signifiers?



#95 Sneakeater

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Posted 24 December 2018 - 10:52 PM

I can't believe I read this thread five years ago and didn't reference David Chang's remark about Noma when it was first becoming known, "At last the Danes have a cuisine of their own."


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