I was thinking of the target market from the viewpoint of the restaurants.
The target market seems to me to be the key aspect to the present situation. Like politicians, chefs have stopped directing their efforts towards the relatively few individuals who had some 'understanding' of their craft, and have turned their attention to a vast ocean of 'consumers', who respond to a quite different set of stimuli. Given that the marketing of chefs is now so superficial, it's unsurprising that those who respond to that marketing demand an equally superficial experience for their money. Indeed, most new food seems designed not just to be eaten, but to have an independent life as a sound-bite. For this reason, many of the highest profile restaurants offer one-off experiences, in which the idea of a meal so delicious that one would wish to return is usurped by an experience that can be dropped into conversation and thus transcend the restaurant context to serve as valuable social currency in terms of building one's status.
Just needed to be quoted in 2013.