Posted 07 June 2006 - 03:37 PM
This is not cutting-edge food, but if you like the Collicchio school of cooking (the chefs are both Gramercy Tavern alums) you won't be disappointed. Things I've liked: the center-cut pork chop with fresh bacon (pork belly); the red snapper (in a ginger broth with bok choy and flowering chives). My favorite was the duck, which you get as a seared breast and a braised leg, with a variety of fresh vegetables on the side. Even the roast chicken was good, and made more enticing by what comes with it -- fiddlehead ferns when my friend had it.
I thought the deserts were very good too. The peanut-butter-chocolate parfait appealed to the kid in me, but there was no denying it was really delicious. There's a nice lemon tart, and a kafir lime creme brulee, which was good even though the lime was underplayed. I liked the rhubard crumble, which Bruni did not.
The space is just gorgeous. High ceilings, with beautiful tiles on the floor and leather booths lining the walls. But the metalwork is what makes Dressler so special. On the walls, behind the bar, the chandeliers, all made to look like vegetation but with really cute (whimsical is the word everyone uses, which is on the money) little details in it that you won't even notice unless you really look close.
Service has been very good, exceptional if you consider it's in Williamsburg; and they keep the music (which skews more towards Django than indie rock) at a level that allows conversation. It's a real class act.
Dressler is across the street (and down a bit) from Peter Luger, and a block and a half from Marlow & Sons making this the best eating strip in the WB.
149 Broadway ( at Bedford Avenue)
Bruni gives it two stars.
Gael Greene likes it too.
Andrea Strong says owner Devlin "has the effortless good looks of a young Paul Newman." (And from my experience, he's a nice guy.)
Posted 07 June 2006 - 03:40 PM
Posted 05 July 2006 - 06:53 PM
This is not cutting-edge food, but if you like the Collicchio school of cooking (the chefs are both Gramercy Tavern alums) you won't be disappointed.... My favorite was the duck, which you get as a seared breast and a braised leg, with a variety of fresh vegetables on the side.
Went on Monday night. We were able to make reservations with some minor negotiations as to the exact time a table would be available. Settled on 8:15 but got there at 7:30 to sit at the bar and hang out. Nice bar, good drinks. Place was full from the time we got there till we left around 10pm. We were seated promptly at 8:10. Service was very friendly, from the bartenders to the manager, but was efficient and more "proper" than the usual Williamsburg setting. Of course, 25% of the place were in shorts but, hey, welcome to Brooklyn.
The pseudo-challah and the hard crusted rolls were both good and served individually off a tray. The wine list had 4-5 each by the glass selections of white and red & a couple of nice rose's. I had a rose and then a cab.sauv./zin combo that was good and Ginny had a sparkling rose then a syrah that were also fine. All around $10/glass. The spring pea raviolini were excellent but Ginny's app. of Pan Roasted Scallops w/mache and citrus had waaay too much grapefruit. The scallops, however, were very very good. Ginny had Wild Striped Bass w/swiss chard, some potatoes, bacon, leeks and cockles which proved to be a major winner. I'm liking bacon with fish more and more. I had (and really liked) the duck which, as bonitobroth said, is a signature dish there. A couple of espressos, no dessert. About $125 with good tip. Drinks at the bar were another $30 or so. Well worth it and we'll remember to go back.
By the way, I fully agree with bonitobroth's assessment of the cooking style. Nothing earthshattering but the feeling of eating well thought out & prepared food that tastes good. I'd put it in my top 15 in Brooklyn, below my favorites like al di la, River Cafe, Tempo, Henry's End, & Chestnut, but alongside Applewood, Boullabaisse, Queen, etc.
Posted 05 July 2006 - 08:42 PM
Not this Dressler, I trust.
Nope. But, since you're interested, this from their website :
"Dressler was named for the character Martin Dressler, the title character of a book by author Steven Millhauser, entitled, Martin Dressler, The Tale of an American Dreamer. The book, which won the 1997 Pulitzer Prize for Fiction, happens to be one of Colin Devlin’s favorite books and describes the life and times of Martin Dressler, the son of a cigar maker in late 19th Century New York who immerses himself in the world of hotels and service, achieves monumental successes and is ultimately undone by the grandiosity of his singular and unique vision".
Posted 05 February 2007 - 03:54 AM
The food was good to very good and I thought the apps were esp. wonderful – the quail was a favorite – very intense and rich, but I also loved the rabbit ragout with gnocchi and ricotta and the lobster bisque was quite good. The braised short rib was heavy and uninspired, although the parsnip puree and onions served with it were rather good.
Entrees were a touch less impressive – large portions but the highly recommended (by waiter) roasted chicken was a bit dry. The ricotta ravioli was nice (but not particularly memorable) and the duck (roasted breast and braised leg) with escarole and mushroom risotto was quite good too. Enjoyed the apple tart for dessert.
The side of onion rings was forgotten (arrived later, taken off the check) and our waiter seemed to disappear for close to 15 minutes but it was overall a nice dinner and experience.
Everything is always OK in the end. If it's not OK, then it's not the end.
Posted 05 February 2007 - 01:53 PM
Posted 06 February 2009 - 01:20 AM
Contrast this to Rutt's Hut, an old school Jersey hot dog legend. You can't even get across the parking lot without encountering pigeons who are so bold that they try to take bites of hot dogs from people who are walking to their cars. These pigeons are so brazen that they routinely shake down rats for lunch money.
hotdoglover, describing the well known Clifton NJ dog house
Posted 06 February 2009 - 01:59 PM
Actually, it didn't say that the rent was up, only that it was astronomical.
Editor, New York Journal
Posted 06 February 2009 - 03:45 PM
Do you want to buy my car?
bob marleycorn must die
this food left intentionally bland
and i swear that i don't have a pun
Posted 06 February 2009 - 03:55 PM
Do you want to buy my car?
No, sorry, the State of New York says I can't drive right now.
Posted 08 September 2009 - 02:51 AM
You can go to Dressler, and eat off the regular carte, and pay about $60 for three courses.
OR, you can get the tasting menu. Five well-chosen courses (you get to choose among two or three items per course) -- there's nothing on the carte you miss -- for $45. Five courses for $45? Yep, you heard me. (I kept saying to my date tonight, "look, I'm not trying to be cheap. But compare that menu with this menu, and tell me what makes sense to you. Really.")
The food here is far from earth-shattering (and one hopes that the NYT regime that awarded a solid respectable neighborhood place like this two stars is over). But as others have already noted, it's very well-conceived -- most dishes have an unexpected philip, and none of them seems forced or ill-advised -- and also very well-executed. Certainly worth $45 for five courses (you've heard about that, right?).
The wine list is narrow and basically boring. But, happily, they have the perfect wine to go with a modest five-course, fish-and-meat tasting menu: Clos Delorme, which I've discussed in the wine section and am happy to recommend again here.
Except for the $45 five-course tasting menu (I've mentioned that, right?), I wouldn't be telling you to make sure you get yourself to Williamsburg to try this place. But really, for $45 for five good courses (OK, I'll stop), why eat at home?
Posted 08 September 2009 - 03:38 AM
Posted 08 September 2009 - 07:39 AM
Well, sure, but you can also just go to the East Village and get essentially the same deal at Knife + Fork, Degustation, or Jack's Luxury Oyster Bar. 5 or 6 course tastings in the $50 range don't seem that uncommon, at least around the parts I frequent.
Posted 08 September 2009 - 01:18 PM
Dressler will never be interesting. But in the end I think I prefer its rather boring accomplishment to a place with higher ambitions that I don't think it's reaching.
PS -- I think "worst NYC restaurant with a Michelin star" may be a pretty tight race. But Dressler is certainly toward the lead there.