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Sneakeater

Member Since 24 May 2007
Online Last Active Today, 12:00 AM
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#1437432 Instant Pot, the best thing since the Veg-o-matic?

Posted by Sneakeater on 08 February 2019 - 06:56 AM

I actually managed to sneak the pressure-cooker timing for stock into my life style yesterday.  I have to say, the resultant game-bird stock looked gorgeous.




#1437069 The Rest of Us

Posted by Sneakeater on 26 January 2019 - 04:34 AM

Wood pigeon on toast.  Sautéed bok choy and smashed celeriac on the side.

 

How do I love wood pigeon?  I love it for its gamey taste:  just this side of grouse (but still only slightly livery -- not more livery than liver, like the dread mink whale).  I love it cuz it's sized perfectly for a solo diner.  I love it cuz, like all game birds, it's ridiculously easy to cook if you don't get it in your head to make a pithivier or something.  And I love to eat it at home alone, so I can just pick it up and gnaw instead of daintily carving it.

 

And, when you're done . . . stock.

 

One of the fun things about cooking (I'm not being faux naif here:  this is old to you guys but new to me) is that you get to perfect dishes, correcting for mistakes in past attempts.  I now have this wood pigeon dish down.

 

The BBC recipe I use recommends Chianti as the wine you use in cooking the bird (they have you use much too much, BTW -- which leaves more to drink when adjusted to reality).

 

2013 Fattoria Corzano e Paterno Chianti Riserva "I Tre Borri"

 

Having had a wine that was arguably too old last night, tonight I moved to a wine that is arguably too young.

 

This was one of the last vintages in which this 100% Sangiovese was even called a Chianti (the maker has since declassified it to a Rosso Tuscano).  I don't think 100% Sangiovese wines should even be allowed to be called "Chiantis"; I want the blend (I even wish they still required white grapes instead of outlawing them, as they now do).

 

But this wine is no fiasco.  It has that characteristic Chianti dusty (black cherry) fruit, and those dusty Chianti tannins.  (Drinking Chianti, you'd think Tuscany lies under a perpetual dust layer.)  I was afraid this product of a transplanted Swiss professional family would be too Modern, but their approach of using large oak barrels gives just the right amount of toast on the finish (also, of course, there remains that characteristic Chianti acid jolt).  Anyway, while the Founder was a Swiss architect on a lark, the current generation are dedicated Tuscan farmers:  their olive oil is probably better known than their wine.  And they are strictly organic (the only fertilizer they use comes from their sheep), although not "natural".

 

This isn't anything like my favorite wine.  But it's hugely enjoyable.  (And it's drinking fine now.)




#1436963 Standard Grill

Posted by Sneakeater on 23 January 2019 - 12:17 PM

I think “bro” was the author of the article.


#1436948 Annoyances

Posted by Sneakeater on 23 January 2019 - 02:14 AM

I wish I were that annoyed.


#1436811 Gage & Tollner

Posted by Sneakeater on 18 January 2019 - 07:45 PM

Most NYC restaurants have live rats.




#1436713 Gage & Tollner

Posted by Sneakeater on 17 January 2019 - 12:54 AM

I don’t have a problem with it, either. My problem is with speaking derisively of the older, clearly superior dining culture.


#1436620 The Way We Eat Now

Posted by Sneakeater on 15 January 2019 - 05:36 AM

I'm not sure there's a discernible difference between performance art and post-toddler conversation.




#1436555 DiPalo's

Posted by Sneakeater on 13 January 2019 - 01:23 AM

I read recently that Emily’s is opening a new place featuring griddled pizzas, and I thought, “haven’t we been through this already?”


#1436549 DiPalo's

Posted by Sneakeater on 12 January 2019 - 08:06 PM

They’ve removed a lot of the stuff that wasn’t narrowly “on-topic”, as in limited to discussions of food (as opposed to, say, whether a poster had ever actually been to a restaurant). (In other words, the stuff that makes discussion boards actually worth reading.)


#1436476 Depressing stuff

Posted by Sneakeater on 10 January 2019 - 07:04 AM

AGGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHH!

 

Brian Wilson, when he recorded those poignant old-man vocals on Smile 14 years ago, was the age that i am now!




#1436470 The Rest of Us

Posted by Sneakeater on 10 January 2019 - 05:20 AM

Watch this space:  what I'm planning to do with the remaining venison tri-tip will be a travesty.  A shonda, even.




#1436469 The Rest of Us

Posted by Sneakeater on 10 January 2019 - 05:18 AM

Venison tri-tip with Santa Maria Pinquito beans and garlic bread (smoked garlic, I feel compelled to note). Why hasn't anyone thought of this combination before?

In Santa Maria they'd have had a salad with this. But at my house, to paraphrase Tina Turner, we never ever do nothing raw and greeny. Steamed brussels sprouts.

The farmed New Zealand venison I get from D'Artagnan consistently both delights and disappoints me. As meat, it's always very good: I tend to think of it as just very good beef. But as venison . . . it lacks that pissy wild flavor that (for example) the fallow deer they're now serving at Frenchette has (not to mention that deer Stone shot a few years ago). I marinated the shit out of this tri-tip -- in a very aggressively flavored marinade -- but I'm happy to report that the meat retained a level of gaminess I'm not used to from D'Artagnan (I guess it helps that my new meat thermometer prevented me from overcooking it) (too much).

It seemed to me from my reading about Santa Maria barbecue that they flavor the beans pretty aggressively down there. In fact, I was worrying that in order to be "authentic" I had overspiced mine (RG would certainly not approve). I needn't have worried. They were very moreish (especially with that meat).

I spent so much time thinking up this dinner combination [sarcasm emoji], it's a good thing the wine choice was like automatic.

2009 Scholium Project Gardens of Babylon

OK, this is from the Suisun Valley, a good deal north of Santa Maria. But while Central Coast wines are my favorites in California, they tend to be too light for a meal like this. I wanted a bruiser.

Well, a former bruiser. As I keep saying, this Petite Sirah, which was rough upon release ("nice and rough", Tina T. would say), has aged into a balanced, integrated wine.

It's not shy, not at all. But the secondary flavors, which upon release seemed to be coming from a different universe than the blackcurrant fruit, now flow from it. (Maybe it would more accurate to say that the secondary flavors used to seem like they were scurrying around the fruit's feet, like early mammals with dinosaurs -- but now they're all members of the same peer-group community.) So you get this big taste of blackcurrant -- so good with venison -- and then truck like Mr. Natural into the tobacco, chocolate, and other deep follow-up flavors.

What if Abe Schoener actually knows what he's doing? (To my bud Abe: just kidding!)


#1436389 Cervo's

Posted by Sneakeater on 08 January 2019 - 06:08 AM

You know, speaking of the new bar, pace Eater, it's very hard for me to think of Claire Sprouse as a "SF cocktail star" (although I'm glad to have her back).


#1436279 Toronto, at the moment

Posted by Sneakeater on 06 January 2019 - 04:23 AM

Did you see the one with the pre-dead lobster?


#1436234 Annoyances

Posted by Sneakeater on 05 January 2019 - 02:38 AM

I only wish Suzanne were still around to remind us that those of us who raised concerns about the closure were selfish immature people who cared only about our own convenience because she herself was unaware of any broader consequences.