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Member Since 11 Sep 2009
Offline Last Active Today, 05:39 PM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: toronto recommendations please

23 June 2019 - 03:34 PM

Yes. Good news. I will likely be back in August - I really like what they are doing and have had some great dishes there, but the full meal has never come together for me. Recent reports sound like they are starting to hit it.

In Topic: LA Michelin Stars 2019

10 June 2019 - 03:40 PM

Adrian, we'll just have to agree to disagree about Son of a Gun.



But what is the case? I see in a world where the Spotted Pig and Uncle Boons and State Bird Provisions have stars, it starts to look weird that Son of a Gun is unstarred because then you're arguing over whether it is marginally better or worse than other high-level, but ultimately upper-midrange, restaurants. But my premise is that starring these kinds of places, except in some really unique circumstances, is not in line with what Michelin is good at doing (and has historically done in Europe). If you're operating in a world where your one stars are Cafe Boulud, Aldea, and Gramercy Tavern (or Trois Mec maybe), the argument for Son of a Gun, no matter how great you think it is and even if you think that it executes its proffer better than Boulud, starts to look weak. Remember, the idea of starring Le Chateaubriande was a controversial one, and it operates in an idiom much closer to what I am talking about than Son of a Gun. 

In Topic: LA Michelin Stars 2019

09 June 2019 - 11:42 PM

I'm not saying Michelin should solely tailor their assessments to local sensibilities, I'm saying they are not consistent.  To take one example, Son of a Gun is a Bib under their current ratings.  It's not cheap.  And it's the equal of one stars in France.


Look, it's been some years since I've been to Son of a Gun, and I really liked it when I went and it's quite a nice restaurant, but, lol, no, it's not a French one star restaurant. Saturne struggled for years to get a star and there was an order of magnitude difference, and SoaG was not playing in the same universe as a Table or a Chateaubriande. A quite nice restaurant like L'Ami Jean - which I thought was better than Son of a Gun - is not a one star and it is not part of the conversation to have one star. 


This is kind of the exact problem - when you start trying to parse why Spotted Pig got a star but Son of a Gun didn't, it all stops making sense. The other listings, as Addison points out, are where the guide could give a better impression of the city. But it's all opaque (because it is probably a fraud) and trying to give an impression of a city is probably not the strength of a guide like this anyway.

In Topic: LA Michelin Stars 2019

09 June 2019 - 06:26 PM

Pretending that Michelin actually has the budget to do what it purports to do and to visit the restaurants it purports to visit (let alone the number of times it purports to visit them), in a pure sense, Michelin should not be tailoring to local sensibilities or the sensibilities of Eater, but doing what it has always done - evaluating restaurants based on a quasi-objective system based on the internal standards of French haute cuisine or haute cuisine more broadly. Economically, it can't do that, or won't risk doing that, but that is really the only sensible way for the guide to operate. 


This is not a value judgment about fine versus non-fine dining and the big mistake is when people think that the Michelin stars are saying that and then get all bent. 

In Topic: How Pop Music Stopped

08 June 2019 - 05:21 PM

Good listening on this topic, for those that can stomach it from Jon Caramanica :






It is weird to think of 1960s rock, or mid-2000s indie, as much more than dad rock now.