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Member Since 11 Sep 2009
Offline Last Active Today, 03:34 AM

#1443746 The Rest of Us

Posted by Adrian on 05 August 2019 - 04:02 PM

You mean way over 300% right?

#1443699 Nice

Posted by Adrian on 03 August 2019 - 01:14 AM

Topping that list is great for the bottom line but man does it do a number to your message board reputation.

#1443690 Le BAT and Bones

Posted by Adrian on 02 August 2019 - 11:40 PM

Please just put it in bistros and restos and let’s just make that the place for open Paris restaurant discussion, as it is now. Makes it easier to reference back to older discussions.

#1443631 Paris Bistros, Restos

Posted by Adrian on 02 August 2019 - 01:41 PM

I accept that, but you can see why the post was interpreted as suggesting that the person you were responding to “did not know what they are talking about” as well as others participating in the thread. Ultimately, we have a real and fun discussion here now, and it would be great if others join, but if they are not drawn in by that discussion the I’m not sure what to say. It would be great to have them, but, also, some people balk at online discussion or disagreement. Which is a fine and sane thing, but probably means that they won’t post.

#1436261 The Way We Eat Now

Posted by Adrian on 05 January 2019 - 07:43 PM

@Orik - Oliva? More query is where is the substitution taking place. The economic point is fully congruent with mine - the three-star plus class of restaurants is much more expensive than it used to be but there are still a lot of places to buy a hunk of dry aged beef for $200 (when it used to be $100 in 2009 and in 1999 was barely available outside a steakhouse) or a big piece of duck or more bluefin than ever and there are lots of those places that are full. There's a story about bad economics, and those economics leading the the rise of the tasting menu, the decline of a la carte at the top end, and global trends, fine dining restaurants being special events for most and the tasting menu more reliably delivering on the special event promise, that has lead to a change in composition at that level, but it's not like it's particularly difficult for me, an outsider, to randomly stab a continental place on the Michelin list or to quickly look at an Mouthfuls thread to discover that Ai Fiori or Le Coucou or Beatrice Inn serves venison. It's more expensive than it used to be, and life in big cities has outstripped inflation, but that's the modern condition, and lots of incomes have outstripped inflation and, while most incomes haven't, those incomes that do are concentrated in Manhattan. 


But it seems that there was never a class of restaurants serving venison or aged beef at an affordable, go out for dinner on the regular, as a non-oligarch, price. Otherwise, Momofuku Ssam Bar wouldn't have been a big deal. 


Maybe there's a story that seats have not kept pace with interest, and that has priced out some people who used to fill more plentiful seats, but these are all discussions about something other than the ability to order squab.


Ultimately, the solution is just to move to Montreal.

#1436238 The Way We Eat Now

Posted by Adrian on 05 January 2019 - 03:30 AM

I don’t know who’s going to be happy when I get around to writing up Alo.


I'm very interested in your take.


I would also add, obviously, the economics and culture are harder for the place that wants to operate at the 2-3 Michelin level and not do tasting menus than they were in the past. That's an interesting conversation, and that there are less top-of-market restaurants doing a la carte is a worthy topic of conversation but, unless I'm misreading, that's not what we're discussing here.

#1435650 Old Man Shaking Fist at Cloud

Posted by Adrian on 18 December 2018 - 03:02 AM

First para, yes, but as far as New York is concerned at least, unbanked people can easily get debit cards. Easily. In five minutes. For free.

So second para, we really are (as Sneak admits) talking about the homeless and desperately poor, and god knows David Chang is not their problem; and I fully understand if DC isn’t wondering how those people are going to get a ten buck spicy Fuku.


I think we're talking about the kind of people where getting a prepaid debit card is a pain in the ass. I am sure that I'm not the only one here who finds it to be a psychological annoyance to have to think about what groceries I need to buy, to pay my property tax bill, or remember to do half a million routine life things. Some non-negligible portion of the population doesn't have debit cards and I doubt that group spends much time budgeting to buy prepaid debit cards. As things move that way, it will be another unnecessary psychological cost of being poor, however.


Mostly, though, the point is that someone opened up a fast food chicken place and decided that having plastic would be the only way to eat there. Going cashless is a broader societal trend among fast food restaurants and it does involve the calculation that the very poor should not have access to the restaurant (or, at best, a lack of consideration). Perhaps $10 or $8 or anything more than a Happy Meal ($3.99) is too expensive for the poor and this is a moot point. But it is a conscious decision to deny people without plastic access to your fast food restaurant. The world is increasingly moving this way, and it's not the world's greatest injustice, but, again, I think it's reasonable to object to that trend and object to supporting restaurants that facilitate that trend. 

#1435638 Old Man Shaking Fist at Cloud

Posted by Adrian on 17 December 2018 - 10:50 PM

I hate to say it, but it may be time to cut this discussion off.

It's hard to see where it could go that isn't political.

It’s been political since the inception. But I don’t think it’s political to say (1) this policy makes it more difficult for the poor to eat and fuku and (2) this is inconsistent with chang’s politics (insofar as I understand them). Those are factual statements.

#1435634 Old Man Shaking Fist at Cloud

Posted by Adrian on 17 December 2018 - 09:37 PM

Rising cashlessness is a problem for the poor, especially in a society with a weak socia safety net. This is easy to google.

That someone who purports to hold a certain set of social values would, in his most accessible project, chose to exclude the poor or it least make it harder for them to participate, is not a great look. It’s not the end of the world, and most poor have probably never heard of fuku, but it makes him at least an implicit advocate for a more exclusionary future.

#1434256 Le Clarence: Chateau Haut-Brion’s luxury Paris Restaurant

Posted by Adrian on 13 November 2018 - 04:19 PM

you say sous vide, i say cvap. 

#1433398 Montreal

Posted by Adrian on 17 October 2018 - 06:46 PM

pastel is probably in the handful of best modern fine dining restaurants in canada right now, though that's not huge praise, it's something. very clear post-noma-el bulli thing, with minimalist plating, complex preps, extracted chlorophyll and spherified tomato but also clearly a quebecoise-french restaurant - duck ballontine, perfect, with a reduced duck jus, sauces on almost every dish - with a very excited, friendly and young staff (perhaps too excited and friendly, but passionate), a wine list that is really not there yet (but still better than what i get in toronto) and a too bright front room. anyway, this sounds more tentative an assessment than it is - this is a recommended restaurant and has the potential to keep developing into something special. 


for the connoisseurs of brown food, there is a special on the l'express menu of escargots and chanterelles over a celeriac puree with demi glace and a sprig of parsely for your health. this is brown food par excellence.  

#1431705 Frenchette

Posted by Adrian on 27 August 2018 - 03:01 PM

It's exactly because he's a regular that the right thing to do is write about it and not just be a cheerleader in exchange for comped dishes or whatever. The restaurant can read and learn about its process control issues without tying it to a relationship.

I find the concept of trying to hash things out in private downright toxic.



I tend to take the exact opposite tact. I simply don't post or write publicly (in detail, other than general recommendations) about restaurants where I have relationship. Instead, if there's an issue, I'll tell them, but not during the meal and not in exchange for comps. But I think that I have to admit that my approach is preclusive of writing about restaurants I go to in the same way that Sneak does. 

#1429956 World Cup 2018

Posted by Adrian on 12 July 2018 - 01:22 AM

Modric is probably a consensus top 10 global player with the insider-y take being that hes a top 5 guy. He is the playmaker on the best team in the world so, I dont know, pretty superstar-y.

#1429416 Frenchette

Posted by Adrian on 28 June 2018 - 11:44 PM

But left precisely because of the limitations of McNally restaurants.

And 0.9% of people considering eating at Frenchette know that (fewer care). I did measure this.

All depends. Some portion knownits a hot restaurant (and dont care). Some portion jnownits McNally alumns and expect a McNally list (by also many dont care). Some portion are international and probably expect it to look like this kind of French bistro elsewhere and expect this list. Probably the first two groups are biggest.

#1429339 Frenchette

Posted by Adrian on 28 June 2018 - 12:25 AM

(Obviously havent been but also can read a list.)

The list is in step with what a restaurant in the same broad style would have in Montreal and even some restaurants in a more traditional style would have in Paris (eg. cossard and bornard at Baratin, or the lists at Thierry Bretons places, etc.) so I dont think its a total surprise. But also lots of stuff on there that I think would appeal to someone who is not big on natural wines. Like, dont go for the Nesterac or Riss, but many of the burgs, Agnellis non-amphorae la lune, souhauts stuff (especially the whites which show the virtue of acidity in a class of wines which can drift towards flab), etc.