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Member Since 15 Oct 2009
Offline Last Active Yesterday, 11:41 PM

#1440450 GQ Best New Restaurants

Posted by Wilfrid on 26 April 2019 - 02:30 PM

I thought this year's survey by Brett Martin was well-written and entertaining.  You'd have to travel much more than I already do (and I don't want to) to know if the selection is good, but I enjoyed the division of the restaurants into three categories: Refuge, Resistance, and Derangement.



#1440357 Greece and the Islands

Posted by Wilfrid on 24 April 2019 - 03:54 PM

Greece is one European country I've never visited.  If I wanted to visit one or more islands, how would I go about choosing, other than just picking names I recognize?


Does being accessible from Athens narrow it down?

#1440278 What makes you laugh?

Posted by Wilfrid on 22 April 2019 - 09:04 PM

There may be nothing new about Atera's website, I don't know.  But it's making me laugh today.
Their version:


Atera honors the poetry of nature and creativity
in pursuit of an immersive sensory dining experience



Dining at Atera
We offer a seasonal and continuously evolving tasting menu experience.
Please allow 2½ hours for you and your guests.

My version:

Atera is open for dinner.



Dining at Atera
We offer a set menu.
Please allow 2½ hours for you. If your guests don't match expectations, give us the nod, and we'll have them out in an hour.


Menu – $ 285

Wine pairing – $ 175
Reserve wine pairing – $ 365
Temperance pairing – $ 105

Shelter pairing – $ 75

Prison pairing – $ 50

Bread and water, nothing else – $ 35


(The first four lines are genuine, the the last three are an homage to Cabby.)

#1440102 Dallas 2019

Posted by Wilfrid on 16 April 2019 - 12:01 AM

Yes, you have to say “ellum” apparently.

#1439974 Orlando

Posted by Wilfrid on 11 April 2019 - 11:20 PM

My previous memorable Orlando experience was Disney’s Victoria & Albert’s. Looking for non-Disney this time. Should have at least one dinner opportunity, although one night I am apparently seeing Lady Gaga.

#1439874 Food & Wine Best New Chefs 2019

Posted by Wilfrid on 09 April 2019 - 01:56 PM


Mutsuko SomaKamonegi, Seattle

Misti NorrisPetra and the Beast, Dallas

Kwame OnwuachiKith/Kin, Washington, DC

Matthew KammererHarbor House Inn – Elk, Mendocino

Caroline Glover, Annette, Aurora

Junghyun ParkAtomix, New York

Bryan Furman, B’s Cracklin, Atlanta

Nite YunNyum Bai, Oakland

Paxx Caraballo Moll, Jungle Bao Bao, San Juan

Brandon GoHayato, Los Angeles

#1439845 Duck

Posted by Wilfrid on 08 April 2019 - 10:30 PM

I wish we could stop undercooking duck. Most of the misery from the duck breast restaurant dishes of the last 12 months has been the kitchen’s insistence on serving it rare or medium rare (even though I now request medium). The result, a rubber ball, with those indigestible stringy pieces for which there must be a biological term.

I cook medium or beyond at home, which makes it more tender, and although it changes the flavor, doesn’t do so in a bad way. (I can get my blood and iron fix from more suitable meats.)

What made me think of this again was cooking duck legs yesterday. I gave the skin a stove-top sear, then put in a hot oven for 40 minutes. They were still pale rubber balls. I turned the oven down and left them for another hour plus. Result: crisp mahogany skin, rendered fat, fork-tender meat.

Most of this goes for lamb too (see Joe’s Paris post), but I admit it’s easier to eat rare. (Two notes: very high quality magrets are exempt; and raw duck, which I’ve eaten as a ceviche, isn’t a problem - not that problem, anyway).

#1439841 Annoyances

Posted by Wilfrid on 08 April 2019 - 10:17 PM

Food stylists drive me nuts. It's bad enough when they diddle around with the finished dish so that it has no resemblance to what the instructions will produce, but when they show completely different ingredients it must be very confusing to novice cooks. Case in point, this photo of shank accompanying an oxtail recipe.


That would not be a very wiggly tail.

#1439675 The English Language

Posted by Wilfrid on 03 April 2019 - 01:03 AM

I am right now hearing the word “subsequent” pronounced as “sub-see-quent.” Please tell me this is a mistake, not an accepted development.

#1439653 Bavaria and...?

Posted by Wilfrid on 02 April 2019 - 10:52 PM

Ooh but we all know, don’t we, that labskaus became popular in Liverpool (port city with strong Hamburg connections) which is why they’re called “scousers”?

Variations on the dish were seen by me as a kid in London.

#1439651 Dumbo

Posted by Wilfrid on 02 April 2019 - 10:45 PM

Actually did LOL.

Bambi being Brooklyn and Manhattan-below-Inwood.

#1439476 Las Vegas dining updates please!

Posted by Wilfrid on 30 March 2019 - 03:04 AM

Sparrow + Wolf. Yes, I got off the strip. This is located on that road with countless Asian restaurants. Sleek, busy, mainly good service (slow on the wine).

I’d been eating on the road, well and badly, often heavily for three weeks. So my reaction here was that, although there was a lot going on with the dishes (bonito flakes here, edible ash there, preserved this and that), it was still a very clean tasting, fresh and light meal.

Then I will contradict myself by saying the skate wing was Flinstone sized. The skate was good, and the warm ocean parfait to start, with sea urchin and smoked trout roe was excellent. Being off the strip meant that Chablis was $15 a glass, not $39 or some other random tourist rip off price.

I was with someone who insisted on dessert :D

Nice place. Keen to try the nearby Partage.

#1439402 Scott Walker

Posted by Wilfrid on 28 March 2019 - 04:26 AM

Now I love Torst, who cares about the stools?

#1439326 Ferlinghetti

Posted by Wilfrid on 27 March 2019 - 05:01 AM

She’s a bit like the Statue of Liberty only shorter and more tuneful. A beacon.

#1438953 San Francisco in 2014 and Beyond

Posted by Wilfrid on 18 March 2019 - 10:03 PM

I am missing a hip.