I agree that Nieporent is very savvy and is unlikely to sign up for such stupidity. But it's worth noting that the Gilt team also changed many of the things Bruni initially complained of. With the review season these days coming so quickly, it just wasn't soon enough.
Different than doing stupid things from the start.
Montrachet lasted for 20 years, which these days is a pretty impressive run. I think a big part of the problem was that the executive chef position at Montrachet was often a stepping stone to bigger & better things. An astonishing number of people cycled through that kitchen—some of the industry's best known names. It says a lot about Nieporent's management skill that he kept it going as long as he did. But the fact is, when you have to keep finding another three-star chef every few years, it's going to take a toll.