Such a circumstance is remarkable? It's easy to find such stuff? Serious question: how many restaurants in NYC other than a few Chinese places even serve squab? Of those that do, how many serve the real wild thing? And of those, how many hang it in that same way? I'm guessing that the resulting number of restaurants is approaching zero. Developing a skill for recognizing properly hung squab just might not be all that valuable for any NYC reviewer. Not like, say, being able to taste the difference between grain- and grass-fed beef, or distinguishing among different aging times and methods.
I think the remarkable thing about that Diner's Journal entry is that Wells can't tell if the squab was off. " In my sheltered urban existence I have very little experience eating wild game and none at all eating aged squab." Well, sir, if you're the restaurant reviewer of the NYT, get in some practice; it isn't hard. As others have said, this is akin to saying in a review of a novel, er, I only read comics. And if the squab was not off, then this is very bad publicity for the restaurant.
And, just one more thing: a dressed salad goes limp in 5 mins? Come on.
If the squab was not off, it will make no difference whatsoever to the restaurant's reputation. Or to Wells's.* The percentage of the full dining public who read this stuff is probably minuscule. And given the unlikelihood of a huge number of people even being able to eat there, the few who read the whole description from Mirarchi and who get to eat at Roberta's are unlikely to be swayed. Maybe they view it as a badge of honor to eat reeking meat. (That I can easily imagine. Because they can't tell the difference themselves.)
And yes, an overdressed salad can go limp that fast. And any salad can go limp in ten minutes at room temp--maybe his first time estimate was correct.
*I daresay there are people here who are looking for ways to bring Wells down. Sorry, guys, this ain't it.