57 replies to this topic

[Sneakeater]

Last week might not have been the best time to open an osteria, all eyes being on the trattoria on Gramercy Park. But here's Roman's.

Roman's is in the location where the second Bonito used to be, on Dekalb Ave. in Fort Greene. The two Bonitos -- one in Williamsburg and one here -- were Mexican spots owned and operated by the people who run Marlowe & Sons. They were fair. Earlier this year, the Marlowe's group closed both of them. I'm not sure whether they plan to reopen anything in the Williamsburg space, but they opened this modest osteria in the Fort Greene space.

Being a New Brooklyn Restaurant, Roman's has a very market-driven menu. So market-driven as to be extremely limited: maybe five or six antipasti, three primi, twocountemtwo segundi. Nothing is extremely ambitious, but nothing is completely simple, either. No green is served without something mixed in to give it flavor; no meatball is unstuffed.

I thought the food, for what it was, was delicious. My pig's head terrine antipasto was as good as can be (this being the kind of thing you'd expect Marlowe's to excel at). For a primo, instead of a pasta I had the sauerkraut soup: a pickled cabbage broth with clumps of sauerkraut, pork belly, and a poached egg (yep they're getting on the German train here, too). If I say this dish smelled better than it tasted, I don't mean that as a serious criticism; the fragrance, when they set it down, was overwhelming. The pork belly was a bit tough, though. My segundo, a pork meatball stuffed with nettles and cheese, was very good.

What are the problems with this place?

First, the menu is too limited. I don't mean this as a problem for return visits, as they promise to change it almost entirely every day, based on the market. I mean it's a problem during each visit. Two main-dish choices just isn't enough.

Second, it can't match the mighty Franny's. (Although it's certainly a plus that Roman's, unlike Franny's, has actual segundi.)

Finally, a problem springing from one of Roman's New Brooklyn affectations. As I said earlier, the menu changes almost entirely every day. As a result, they have to produce a new set of menus every day. This being the New Brooklyn, they hand-write them, in pencil on graph paper. Since handwriting a full complement of menus is so time-consuming, they describe each dish with only one or, if absolutely necessary, two words. So, the menu will list such items as "Terrine" or "Agnolotti" or "Meatball" -- without telling you what the terrine is made of, or what the agnolotti are stuffed and sauced with, or what kind of meat is in the meatball. That information must await your waitron's recitation. Which means you can't make any kind of menu selections until a while after you've been given your menu, which functions as little more than a memory aid. Stupid.

Now we don't like to acknowledge this in quaint New Brooklyn, but they now have computers that enable you to compose and print a new menu every day. Maybe someday Marlowe's will buy Roman's one.

It sounds like faint praise if I say I think this is now the best restaurant in Fort Greene. And, in a sense, faint praise is all I want to give this place. But make no mistake: I really liked my food, really liked the friendly and enthusiastic staff, and intend to be back frequently.

COMP DISCLOSURE: Another cocktail for dessert.

[Daniel]

Awesome, thanks sneak.. I will added to the list!

[Sneakeater]

FOUR BLOCKS from your house.

[nuxvomica]

i wouldn't be bothered by limited secondi options, since i almost always prefer pasta (or two apps) over a meat/fish entree. but the meatballs sounded nice, actually, what did they come with, if anything? and what was the other main course?

i totally agree about the menu being annoyingly criptic. don't they have a board to write that on so you don't have to wait for a waiter?

i'm pretty sure the market forces will prevail and you'll see all the changes you want soon enough.

[Sneakeater]

The (single) meat ball came in a bowl with tomato sauce and grated cheese.

The other main course was flank steak.

Remember, this is a Marlowe's place. So you'd think the meat course would kind of be the point.

[nuxvomica]

it's not like they are serving fish, no?

[Aaron T]

The (single) meat ball came in a bowl with tomato sauce and grated cheese.

The other main course was flank steak.

Remember, this is a Marlowe's place. So you'd think the meat course would kind of be the point.

So what was in the meatball? pork, beef, lamb, veal?

[Sneakeater]

My segundo, a pork meatball stuffed with nettles and cheese, was very good.

[AaronS]

This is only a few blocks from me so I'm sure I'll go sooner rather than later.

The menu sounds better than what they do with the specials at Diner, where they hand write the menu on your paper place mat. The last time I was there I told the waitress that I had overhead her telling the next table what the specials were and she got huffy and did it anyways.

[Lex]

Congratulations Sneak. Eater linked to your review.

[Sneakeater]

The Power Of The Internet

Their menu now gives full descriptions of each dish.

[AaronS]

Never would have happened if my Dad complained about it.

[Daniel]

I thought, eh... Miss A liked it..

[Daniel]

This place has similar cooking and philosophy of all the restaurants in the Marlow and Sons family. Simple home cooking, focusing on the simple part. And by home, it feels like it was cooked by one of your actual friends, in their homes..

I found the flavors to be heavy, the food is an American approach to Italian Food.. Not Italian American food. Italian food is about balance. . The space is pretty, the staff was nice.. Wine list was pretty good...

They did not serve bread the night I went. I don't think I have ever heard of an Italian Restaurant not serving bread or sticks.

My favorite thing I ate was a side dish of lentils.. And at 5 bucks, it was a good price..

Spaghetti Carbonara was heavy with egg and cheese.. It was too saucy, not balanced well. The spaghetti was drowning in sauce.. It might have done better with a penne or ziti.. Or just less sauce.. This dish seems to be a regular on every menu from here to Japanese Izakaya Restaurants.. This, a forgettable version.

cheese plate was pretty whack.. They gave us one tiny wedge of cheese that was right out of the fridge.. Way too cold to serve.. they also either had a marmalade or something and a cookie or something.. Why is that called a cheese plate?

It's not too pricey. For people who do cook, you will wonder why you went out to eat. the vibe is certainly cool though.

Nice place in the hood.. The second best Italian place in the area.

i went there once, i will go back..

[Steve R.]

...I found the flavors to be heavy, the food is an American approach to Italian Food.. Not Italian American food. Italian food is about balance.

Nicely stated. Havent been but I think you've captured what others have tried to tell me about the place. I think we'll find other places to go.