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#1 Orik

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Posted 04 May 2010 - 11:58 AM

In the beautiful French Basque country.

This five room hotel/restaurant is managed by Véronique and Arnaud Daguin who do a perfect job of hosting, facilitating dinner table conversation across language boundaries (although towards the end of a five hour dinner with generous wine pours you somehow understand all languages equally well). The rooms (see below), look like a superfuture concrete spacecraft has perfectly superimposed itself on a basque farmhouse. Second only to the rooms at Can Fabes I think, plus you have the midget horses and seriously free range chickens outside your window.

The food is not, and does not try to be, fussy michelin star fare, rather it is the work of one person using great ingredients that he's completely mastered - anchovies on thin slices of beet, then the anchovy (or sardine?) marinade used with fresh favas. Duck breast (I'm not sure of which duck variety, a very long breast) cured with a minimal amount of salt, sliced and served with slices of raw wild mushrooms (seemed to be closely related to crimini), then the caps of the mushrooms pan fried. Little pieces of foie torchon (and this was the best foie I've ever eaten, from a local producer who only uses white corn with results that are very clean tasting), then a slice of it (with sweet and sour shallots?), a scallop cleaned but still attached to a half shell with some sauteed spinach, and so on and so forth... pineapple roasted in an oven as hot as hell, a local digestif that was being made by an old woman who passed away without leaving the recipe to anyone...

Breakfast is equally good, with freshly made brioche, creamy eggs (I think whisked on a double boiler until warm but without even the slightest sign of coagulation), and the usual suspects.

Highly recommended, 650 Euros for two (dinner+room+breakfast), all inclusive.

GPS : Lat. 43.3574036 / Long. -1.2992943


I never said that

#2 Anthony Bonner

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Posted 04 May 2010 - 12:02 PM

website looks lovely. We're going to that part of France next year. hopefully we'll get to check it out.
Why not mayo?

#3 Anthony Bonner

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Posted 04 May 2010 - 02:05 PM

QUOTE(Orik @ May 4 2010, 09:47 AM) View Post
I'm sure you'll like it. There's another place nearby called L'Auberge Basque, run by a Ducasse alum, which is perfectly fine (and its cuisine is far more elaborate) and has a terrific wine list but it's not nearly as enjoyable - I'd skip it next time in favor of another dinner at a basque restaurant.

I bookmarked it. Was it hard to get a booking? Did you guys go much further north? we have to do Toulouse-->Arcachon and our plan is to spend a few days rambling in between. Probably going to do Bras as a day out from Toulouse (actually the countryside east of toulouse - closer to castelnaudary. the olds. they like to retire to the countryside.
Why not mayo?

#4 Orik

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Posted 04 May 2010 - 02:43 PM

QUOTE(Anthony Bonner @ May 4 2010, 10:05 AM) View Post
QUOTE(Orik @ May 4 2010, 09:47 AM) View Post
I'm sure you'll like it. There's another place nearby called L'Auberge Basque, run by a Ducasse alum, which is perfectly fine (and its cuisine is far more elaborate) and has a terrific wine list but it's not nearly as enjoyable - I'd skip it next time in favor of another dinner at a basque restaurant.

I bookmarked it. Was it hard to get a booking? Did you guys go much further north? we have to do Toulouse-->Arcachon and our plan is to spend a few days rambling in between. Probably going to do Bras as a day out from Toulouse (actually the countryside east of toulouse - closer to castelnaudary. the olds. they like to retire to the countryside.


Not hard to get a booking this time of year (but obviously if you're looking for a specific date plan ahead as it's small). We're in Lyon, stopped over in Toulouse, which is impressively young and lively (although as hopeless in terms of food on a Sunday as anywhere in these parts) but we're no longer with a car so it's more of a city trip all the way up to Amsterdam.
I never said that

#5 Anthony Bonner

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Posted 04 May 2010 - 03:18 PM

I'll think of you as the euro trends towards parity

(please be true please be true. Also Spain Real Estate collapse leaving real yields at 12% on a nice 3 bed place a short drive from the beach but not in too touristy an area preferably not in Andalucia - too hot. Thanks. I'll have the goat ready to sacrifice if this happens)
Why not mayo?

#6 Wilfrid

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Posted 04 May 2010 - 03:25 PM

Toulouse is a rock and roll town.

56MHIDvGclA&feature=related

#7 Orik

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Posted 04 May 2010 - 03:36 PM

QUOTE(Anthony Bonner @ May 4 2010, 11:18 AM) View Post
I'll think of you as the euro trends towards parity

(please be true please be true. Also Spain Real Estate collapse leaving real yields at 12% on a nice 3 bed place a short drive from the beach but not in too touristy an area preferably not in Andalucia - too hot. Thanks. I'll have the goat ready to sacrifice if this happens)


Even 1.25 will be nice, and the current panic is probably going to get it there (before someone figures out that the united states of Michigan, Arizona, California and New York is also in less than great shape, and then China blows up leaving the German factories with no work, and so on, and so forth - I PMed the playbook to one MFer early in the year, so far everything going according to plan)

I never said that

#8 Anthony Bonner

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Posted 04 May 2010 - 03:46 PM

QUOTE(Orik @ May 4 2010, 11:36 AM) View Post
QUOTE(Anthony Bonner @ May 4 2010, 11:18 AM) View Post
I'll think of you as the euro trends towards parity

(please be true please be true. Also Spain Real Estate collapse leaving real yields at 12% on a nice 3 bed place a short drive from the beach but not in too touristy an area preferably not in Andalucia - too hot. Thanks. I'll have the goat ready to sacrifice if this happens)


Even 1.25 will be nice, and the current panic is probably going to get it there (before someone figures out that the united states of Michigan, Arizona, California and New York is also in less than great shape, and then China blows up leaving the German factories with no work, and so on, and so forth - I PMed the playbook to one MFer early in the year, so far everything going according to plan)


1.25 = we might be there by friday at this rate. That's not even PPP according to the OECD.

the china thing is the big thing to fall. CA and AZ may have seen the worst of it, MI is headed towards 0, NY is probably utterly fucked as the securities industry becomes permanently less profitable (or maybe just returns to normal profitability never to see such heights again is probably a better way to put it) and the state has to adjust to structurally lower tax revenues.

People seem to not realize how big China is to Germany. Same with the Nordic world. Fucked. And those Australians and Canadians - wipe the smug look off your face. 12x income for a place in Melbourne? that'll work.

anyhoo enjoy your hol.

(Spam in my inbox from some sell-side firm "Are you bearish enough on Spain" rightly or wrongly this stuff becomes self perpetuating at some point.)
Why not mayo?

#9 Orik

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Posted 04 May 2010 - 03:55 PM

That's why you should always be long LdH - if Spain goes pre-industrial again, they'll be completely unaffected.
I never said that

#10 Anthony Bonner

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Posted 04 May 2010 - 03:57 PM

QUOTE(Orik @ May 4 2010, 11:55 AM) View Post
That's why you should always be long LdH - if Spain goes pre-industrial again, they'll be completely unaffected.

fuck gold. Alcohol is always fungible.
Why not mayo?

#11 Orik

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Posted 04 May 2010 - 09:34 PM

p.s. I was going to say this is the best time of year to be visiting, but the 70+ degree weather in the Pyrenees was just replaced with snow, so I guess we were lucky.
I never said that

#12 menton1

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Posted 06 May 2010 - 02:41 PM

QUOTE(Anthony Bonner @ May 4 2010, 10:18 AM) View Post
I'll think of you as the euro trends towards parity


Yes, it's down to $1.27 today, but last year it was similarly low in May and jumped back to $1.46 in September, which is wneh we go to France! Hope it stays low this time!

#13 Anthony Bonner

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Posted 06 May 2010 - 02:47 PM

QUOTE(menton1 @ May 6 2010, 10:41 AM) View Post
QUOTE(Anthony Bonner @ May 4 2010, 10:18 AM) View Post
I'll think of you as the euro trends towards parity


Yes, it's down to $1.27 today, but last year it was similarly low in May and jumped back to $1.46 in September, which is wneh we go to France! Hope it stays low this time!

kinda a different scenario then last year though - no
Why not mayo?

#14 Cathy

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Posted 06 May 2010 - 03:07 PM

Oh that looks wonderful! Arnaud is Ariane's brother.
You're only as good as your grease.


When working with high heat, the first contact between the cooking surface and the food must be respected.

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#15 Chambolle

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Posted 06 May 2010 - 09:45 PM

QUOTE(Anthony Bonner @ May 4 2010, 02:05 PM) View Post
we have to do Toulouse-->Arcachon and our plan is to spend a few days rambling in between.

How many days? And what is commited to so far?