Because of the rather uniform sameness of the NYC critics, the fact that most of them have said something proves nothing, except that they have said it.
I didn't see anything about that - he was complaining that the place looks like some unremarkable hotel restaurant (I haven't been yet, but that's what most critics have been claiming). . . .
If indeed it looks like an unremarkable hotel restaurant, I would invite you to take a look inside (you don't even need to order food), and then tell me which NYC hotels it resembles.
But beyond the falseness of it, why do we not hear the same complaint about the hundredth locavore restaurant they've reviewed? After all, many of them start to look the same, too. The answer, I think, is that the locavore restaurant puts them in a milieu they like, and the (purported) hotel restaurant does not.