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The Dutch


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#1 Wilfrid

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Posted 25 April 2011 - 06:06 PM

Opening tonight, initially for post-11pm walk-ins only.

#2 nuxvomica

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Posted 25 April 2011 - 09:32 PM

not really excited by the menu
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#3 Nancy S.

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Posted 25 April 2011 - 09:44 PM

not really excited by the menu

Agreed, though, maybe the pie will be good.

#4 Sneakeater

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Posted 26 April 2011 - 05:32 AM

Sucker that I am, I liked it.

More when I'm awake.
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#5 oakapple

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Posted 26 April 2011 - 12:15 PM

The Eater/Feast/Grub Street bloggers are bought in. This is the new Torrisi. Until the next one.
Marc Shepherd
Editor, New York Journal

#6 Anthony Bonner

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Posted 26 April 2011 - 12:19 PM

clearly. also don't forget that whether propaganda or not, Carmellini is supposedly boys with the Torrisi guys.
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#7 oakapple

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Posted 26 April 2011 - 12:56 PM

clearly. also don't forget that whether propaganda or not, Carmellini is supposedly boys with the Torrisi guys.

I hadn't even thought of that, although I'm sure you are right. I was thinking more of the breathless hype for a place that, until 11pm last night, hadn't even served a morsel yet. It's exemplified by the title of Amanda Kludt's Eater post, in which the word Tonight is italicized for emphasis. I mean, it's not exactly the Beatles at the Hollywood bowl.

By the way, I'm a Carmellini believer, and I don't doubt the food will be good. But still. Seriously. They need to get a grip.

The 11pm opening is ingenius, though. Credit where credit is due.
Marc Shepherd
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#8 Anthony Bonner

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Posted 26 April 2011 - 01:24 PM


clearly. also don't forget that whether propaganda or not, Carmellini is supposedly boys with the Torrisi guys.

I hadn't even thought of that, although I'm sure you are right. I was thinking more of the breathless hype for a place that, until 11pm last night, hadn't even served a morsel yet. It's exemplified by the title of Amanda Kludt's Eater post, in which the word Tonight is italicized for emphasis. I mean, it's not exactly the Beatles at the Hollywood bowl.

By the way, I'm a Carmellini believer, and I don't doubt the food will be good. But still. Seriously. They need to get a grip.

The 11pm opening is ingenius, though. Credit where credit is due.

I agree with you completely re: Carmellini's food and the absurd hype.

My only point is its possible they share the same PR, or if one of them is a blogger-whoremonger there is a reasonable expectation that there is some sort of quasi-"social" relationship going on.

Sneak - you actually went at 11?
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#9 marauder

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Posted 26 April 2011 - 01:53 PM

clearly. also don't forget that whether propaganda or not, Carmellini is supposedly boys with the Torrisi guys.


The Torrisi guys were AC's cooks at Cafe Boulud and Rich was a sous at A Voce. Went A Voce went off the rails for AC, Rich worked on opening Torrisi and Luke (the other sous) went with AC to do Locanda Verde.

#10 Sneakeater

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Posted 26 April 2011 - 01:57 PM

Sneak - you actually went at 11?


11 is when I usually eat.
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#11 oakapple

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Posted 26 April 2011 - 02:07 PM

The Feast has a slideshow. To their credit, it's titled: "The Dutch, Andrew Carmellini's Latest Hype Machine. . . ."

Other tidbits: 30-minute wait at 11:15pm, an hour wait at midnight.

Money quote:

At first glance, the menu seems familiar: fried chicken, a pork chop, a selection of dry-aged steaks. "Everyone says, 'The food is so simple!' But it's not simple. Some of these dishes have 29 ingredients," said Carmellini.

I have no idea if it's any good or not, but it's a good indication of why one shouldn't judge a restaurant as exciting (or not) from a printed menu. There's a wide range of ways simple-seeming dishes can be cooked uncommonly well, or for that matter badly.
Marc Shepherd
Editor, New York Journal

#12 Sneakeater

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Posted 26 April 2011 - 02:09 PM

The food was NOT simple.

The menu IS misleading in its presentation of dishes.

(No, it's NOT great or anything. But certainly very good.)

I really need to find time to write this up.
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#13 Suzanne F

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Posted 26 April 2011 - 03:15 PM

That's where Henry Meer's place was, right? Cub Room. Yes, it is (I checked old Zagat).

More ingredients doesn't always make food better, but if that chicken is good, I'll have to check it out.

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#14 Daisy

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Posted 26 April 2011 - 04:15 PM

I want to check it out. I have never had a bad meal from a Carmellini kitchen, indeed most of those meals have been well above average.
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#15 Sneakeater

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Posted 27 April 2011 - 06:56 PM

In a way, evaluating The Dutch is as pointless as evaluating the Grand Canyon. People are going to go no matter what I say. But some people here might want to read an evaluation by someone with some discernment. Pending that, they can read the following, by me.

I went opening night, when they were serving only the late-night menu and, apparently, the most formal of their dining rooms was closed. The bar already being full, I sat at the oyster bar (where, annoyingly, you have to rely on waiter service).

The interior no longer looks like The Cub Room. It looks like standard-issue New York Restaurant 2010/11 (i.e., standard-issue Brooklyn a few years ago). If you're already sick of the style, this won't revive your affection for it. If you still sort of like it, this is as good as any of the others.

The restaurant is described as "American", but the menu is more wide-ranging than that -- sometimes deceptively so. Who knew that my appetizer of "Bario Tripe" (made with "avacodo" and "beer") would turn out to be Menudos? Someone like Stone would complain that the obvious use of higher-quality ingredients and clean kitchen technique doesn't warrant a higher price than at a cheap Mexican place, when the dish itself here was a bit blander. I'd counter that the flavors were more subtle, point to the relative greaselessness of the broth, and say that I liked this very much.

And if it's an "American" menu, how can you explain the (delicious) Japanese omelet with pork belly? This was really good. The omelet itself had a heavier weight than I'm used to in Japanese restaurants -- but this is a feature, not a bug. I liked it this way.

Because I had already eaten a bit before I got there (the omelet was a taste from one of my barmates), I went light in selecting my main dish: smoked riccota ravioli. You'd expect Andrew Carmellini to nail these, and boy were they good!

Another barmate made me taste the fries that came with his burger. I can say with assurance that the New York French Fries Curse does not obtain at The Dutch. These fries were excellent.

For dessert, all there is, is pie. The apple rhubard, with a scoop of (vanilla?) ice cream, was fine.

Naren Young's cocktail list is similar to the one at Minetta, and may even be a bit better. You'd expect a buy-the-glass wine list assembled by Colin Alveras to be better than the one here -- but it still isn't totally devoid of interest.

Like Daisy, I have never had an unenjoyable meal from a kitchen run by Andrew Carmellini. This is not a high level of food at The Dutch, but it's made about as well as it can be. In fact, you could almost wish this would be the end of the "causal American" trend, because it isn't going to get any better than this. You can wish that Carmellini were still cooking food as at Cafe Boulud, but he isn't. And you can hate the hype, too. Just don't hate the place. It deserves the exaggerated success it will no doubt attain. You might not love it, but I can't imagine anyone's not liking it.
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