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#16 Chambolle

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Posted 18 November 2011 - 01:10 AM

Walking downstairs to the bathroom today (yes, I went back to hang with Zeus :rolleyes: for a decadent lunch of manic proportions) I spotted Roscioli's locked up line-up of bottles.

Oooh, a Musigny de de Vogüé, pas mal. A small fleet of Gaja hovering above that, bien sur. Haut Brion and Latour, present and accounted for.

Even on the restaurant level as you walk in on your right, you see a multi-row cavalcade of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from guess where (think Chambo).

I bought some eye-talian wine from them today for take away. Their prices are emminently reasonable. Just a quick inexpensive example. I didn't buy this but COS Pithos is 22 or 24 euros on their wine list to drink in house. Fabulous (ahem) Franny's is going eff you for double that, I bet.

That lunch :

Bufala di mozzarella DOP di Paestum 500g e pomodorini pachino semisecchi (why 500g? because it's only 3 euros more than the 300g option. guess what's in my fridge right now?)

Culatello di Zibello DOP della bassa Parmense

Prosciutto di Manzo dell'Asturia 'Cecina de Leon'

Jamon Iberico de Belllota 'Cinco Jotas' Martin Raventos 36 mesi


and of course all that comes with their:

Cestino di pane del Forno Roscioli (from around the corner)

and a bottle of red, of course.

http://www.salumeria...rante/menu.aspx

I try to chat up the sphere of a guy who is sitting at the cash register. No such luck. He does only Italian. I don't. I am finally handed off to a slightly smaller planet named Pier-Luigi (I'm pretty darn sure that was his name). He is part owner. I believe his mother or grandmother had 11 or 12 kids. Pier-Luigi is my man (His opening line, pointing at the cash register sphere "He's my brother - as you can tell because we are both the same size - except he's bigger"). I tell him that I want to buy some wine. We are now tasting wines. Bottles are being opened for Chambo. I next tell them that I got a dinner party back in Paris this weekend and I want to rock these Frenchies' world with some awesome Italian cheeses. (That said, Roscioli has a pretty serious selection of French cheeses, it must be duly noted) Pier-Luigi sicks his cheese-maven on me. Soon I'm getting tired chewing on cheese but at least I finally know what I want. They tell me a new shipment is coming in on Friday. I said I'll be back Saturday AM. They also have some delish sweet-spicy mandarino condiments to go with that cheese. Did I mention that awesome, soft creamy Robiola and the pepper and honey I'm going to put on it? I didn't think so.

#17 Chambolle

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Posted 18 November 2011 - 01:13 AM

Just got back from Glass. Chef used to live in Austin for quite a few years, but she may have been a lawyer then.

I think I want a slice of pizza for dinner tomorrow. Two big meals in a row is too much.

#18 Sneakeater

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Posted 18 November 2011 - 06:48 PM

Two big meals in a row is too much.


This is not the Chambolle we know and love.
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#19 balex

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Posted 15 February 2012 - 08:50 PM

A quick trip to Rome;

Da Nino for lunch -- old school Tuscan food, very good artichokes alla romana, and other vegetable antipasti, and then pappardelle with hare sauce. A 2008 Castello di Ama Chianti was just beautiful, very pure.

Dinner at my favorite pizzeria, not a well known one. I made the mistake of ordering a more expensive Montepulciano d'Abruzzo and ended up with a modern fruit bomb. San Crispino gelato afterwards.

Pre lunch snack of some pizza al taglio, some bianco, and some with porcini from the Forno in Campo dei Fiori. Lunch at Roscioli, which I still don't like. Wonderful wonderful wine list, and great ingredients (at least the ham and cheese and pasta), but they don't cook very well, and the service is bad, the room is cramped.
Anyway some nice old Nebbiolo from Lombardy, but the food was not up to scratch.

There was a starter of artichoke. In Rome there are only three authorised artichoke dishes.
Alla Romana ( stewed with mint), Alla Giudea (deep fried), and a salad of raw sliced artichokes with some grana or parmesan and a lemon juice and olive oil dressing. This was a lot of tepid and tasteless cooked artichokes, with a very few slices of raw artichokes, some pine nuts, and a tasteless dressing. At a time when the market down the street has the most beautiful cimarola artichokes, just unforgivable.

Then dinner at Metamorfosi -- a new restaurant in Parioli, a 10 minute taxi ride from the centre.
Some very good food, quite creative, but flawed by the fact that it was a special valentine's day dinner, and like all these special dinners in Italy (e.g. New Year's eve/Capodanno) painfully slow. So at midnight when the lamb course with cauliflower and chocolate finally arrived, we asked for the bill, since we had to get up at 4:45 for a flight the next morning. Then we got the dessert courses in very rapid succession.
Some Giacosa Barbaresco.

As the name suggests, it is 'transformative' cuisine -- so some slow cooked eggs, broths of parmesan etc. Bit still recognisably italian. Standout dish was a ravioli of pear with a broth of aged parmesan with some black truffle shavings (from Norcia but still good). A bit like tortelli di zucca, but lighter and purer. Interesting textures, techniques and ingredients.
Worth going to if you like more modern cooking.

They had some english speaking staff, though we were the only non italian customers. I don't think it is on the foodie tourist circuit at the moment.

Best coffee was in the old sicilian place in Piazza in Pietra.

#20 Nancy S.

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Posted 15 February 2012 - 09:25 PM

A quick trip to Rome;

Da Nino for lunch -- old school Tuscan food, very good artichokes alla romana, and other vegetable antipasti, and then pappardelle with hare sauce. A 2008 Castello di Ama Chianti was just beautiful, very pure.

Dinner at my favorite pizzeria, not a well known one. I made the mistake of ordering a more expensive Montepulciano d'Abruzzo and ended up with a modern fruit bomb. San Crispino gelato afterwards.

Pre lunch snack of some pizza al taglio, some bianco, and some with porcini from the Forno in Campo dei Fiori. Lunch at Roscioli, which I still don't like. Wonderful wonderful wine list, and great ingredients (at least the ham and cheese and pasta), but they don't cook very well, and the service is bad, the room is cramped.
Anyway some nice old Nebbiolo from Lombardy, but the food was not up to scratch.

There was a starter of artichoke. In Rome there are only three authorised artichoke dishes.
Alla Romana ( stewed with mint), Alla Giudea (deep fried), and a salad of raw sliced artichokes with some grana or parmesan and a lemon juice and olive oil dressing. This was a lot of tepid and tasteless cooked artichokes, with a very few slices of raw artichokes, some pine nuts, and a tasteless dressing. At a time when the market down the street has the most beautiful cimarola artichokes, just unforgivable.

Then dinner at Metamorfosi -- a new restaurant in Parioli, a 10 minute taxi ride from the centre.
Some very good food, quite creative, but flawed by the fact that it was a special valentine's day dinner, and like all these special dinners in Italy (e.g. New Year's eve/Capodanno) painfully slow. So at midnight when the lamb course with cauliflower and chocolate finally arrived, we asked for the bill, since we had to get up at 4:45 for a flight the next morning. Then we got the dessert courses in very rapid succession.
Some Giacosa Barbaresco.

As the name suggests, it is 'transformative' cuisine -- so some slow cooked eggs, broths of parmesan etc. Bit still recognisably italian. Standout dish was a ravioli of pear with a broth of aged parmesan with some black truffle shavings (from Norcia but still good). A bit like tortelli di zucca, but lighter and purer. Interesting textures, techniques and ingredients.
Worth going to if you like more modern cooking.

They had some english speaking staff, though we were the only non italian customers. I don't think it is on the foodie tourist circuit at the moment.

Best coffee was in the old sicilian place in Piazza in Pietra.

Great to read this. We're off to Rome in a few weeks. Metamorfosi has been getting excellent reviews. I may revise my picks to include it.

#21 Steve R.

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Posted 16 February 2012 - 03:39 PM


A quick trip to Rome;

Da Nino for lunch -- old school Tuscan food, very good artichokes alla romana, and other vegetable antipasti, and then pappardelle with hare sauce. A 2008 Castello di Ama Chianti was just beautiful, very pure.

Dinner at my favorite pizzeria, not a well known one. I made the mistake of ordering a more expensive Montepulciano d'Abruzzo and ended up with a modern fruit bomb. San Crispino gelato afterwards.

Pre lunch snack of some pizza al taglio, some bianco, and some with porcini from the Forno in Campo dei Fiori. Lunch at Roscioli, which I still don't like. Wonderful wonderful wine list, and great ingredients (at least the ham and cheese and pasta), but they don't cook very well, and the service is bad, the room is cramped.
Anyway some nice old Nebbiolo from Lombardy, but the food was not up to scratch.

There was a starter of artichoke. In Rome there are only three authorised artichoke dishes.
Alla Romana ( stewed with mint), Alla Giudea (deep fried), and a salad of raw sliced artichokes with some grana or parmesan and a lemon juice and olive oil dressing. This was a lot of tepid and tasteless cooked artichokes, with a very few slices of raw artichokes, some pine nuts, and a tasteless dressing. At a time when the market down the street has the most beautiful cimarola artichokes, just unforgivable.

Then dinner at Metamorfosi -- a new restaurant in Parioli, a 10 minute taxi ride from the centre.
Some very good food, quite creative, but flawed by the fact that it was a special valentine's day dinner, and like all these special dinners in Italy (e.g. New Year's eve/Capodanno) painfully slow. So at midnight when the lamb course with cauliflower and chocolate finally arrived, we asked for the bill, since we had to get up at 4:45 for a flight the next morning. Then we got the dessert courses in very rapid succession.
Some Giacosa Barbaresco.

As the name suggests, it is 'transformative' cuisine -- so some slow cooked eggs, broths of parmesan etc. Bit still recognisably italian. Standout dish was a ravioli of pear with a broth of aged parmesan with some black truffle shavings (from Norcia but still good). A bit like tortelli di zucca, but lighter and purer. Interesting textures, techniques and ingredients.
Worth going to if you like more modern cooking.

They had some english speaking staff, though we were the only non italian customers. I don't think it is on the foodie tourist circuit at the moment.

Best coffee was in the old sicilian place in Piazza in Pietra.

Great to read this. We're off to Rome in a few weeks. Metamorfosi has been getting excellent reviews. I may revise my picks to include it.


Here's Eliz. Minchili's: http://www.elizabeth...nt-in-rome.html

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#22 nuxvomica

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Posted 16 February 2012 - 04:05 PM

Pre lunch snack of some pizza al taglio, some bianco, and some with porcini from the Forno in Campo dei Fiori.

i like the way you fortify before lunch
“Eat me,’’ it says. “Eat me and die.’’ -- Jonathan Gold

Everything is always OK in the end. If it's not OK, then it's not the end.

#23 LiquidNY

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Posted 06 August 2014 - 03:30 AM

I'm going to Rome next month for a week. I'm working on a reservation at La Pergola. Any other must-visits? (I'm going with family this time so I probably won't be able to choose every single place myself.)

Man about town.


#24 joethefoodie

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Posted 06 August 2014 - 03:25 PM

Katie Parla's web site and app are great.  As is Elizabeth Minchilli's.

 

Things change fairly slowly in Rome, so I'm pretty sure the places we liked the most last November are still good.  And I love a line that Maureen Fant once used - that "Rome has been fleecing tourists for thousands of years..."  meaning, you can eat some pretty meh food there.

 

If you can get to the Jerry Thomas project for cocktails - you should.  Go late after everyone else goes to sleep.

 

For some of the classic Roman dishes, you can hardly do better than Trattoria Armando al Pantheon.  Yes, it's near the Pantheon, and yes, it's got some tourists, but it is really fine. 

 

The Nuovo Mercato di Testaccio is great - specifically the Mordi e Vai stand with all sorts of classic Roman dishes served as sandwiches. If you're lucky, maybe she'll slice you a hunk...

 

14657889040_a6e26271b5_n.jpg

 

And Volptetti, just because - I'm sure Steve R. can chime in with his favorites in Testaccio.

 

Trattoria Monti is (still) a wonderful place for a family meal on Sunday afternoon. 

 

Roscioli  (the restaurant) has some great dishes and amazing wines. But the real fun thing to do is to go to the "deli" at lunch and get sandwiches/whatever and eat them outside amongst the Romans and others.

 

For a high-end meal, we like Antico Arco a lot. It will involve a taxi ride both ways. It was our second time visiting AA, the first being at least 10 years ago.

 

And a real find (especially for great seafood) to us at least (we were told about it by one of the owners of Jerry Thomas),  was Osteria Ponte Sisto. This doesn't look too shabby, right...

 

14657896450_024e49b846_n.jpg

 

Other than the deli and/or a pizzeria (our favorite has always been Da Francesco), you'll need to reserve.

 

Speaking of pizza, the recommendation (from EM) in the Monti was awful. Service, pizza, everything. Probably not meant for non locals.

 

You might wanna see some art/ancient stuff too.

 

I love Michelangelo's Moses, in San Pietro in Vincoli. The Capitoline Museums. And a million other things.


Marta, My Dear

 

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#25 Steve R.

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Posted 06 August 2014 - 03:32 PM

Here are a couple of links you might find helpful:

 

first, from Katie Parla, notorious on CH for hating DiFara's:  http://www.parlafood.com/my-rome/   I find her knowledgable and consistent, even if I don't always agree with her tastes.  She's young and gets around Rome, keeping her eye on what's new.

 

secondly, from Maureen Fant, who's much more traditional:  http://www.maureenbfant.com   Click on the link on top of the page for her updated summaries of many restaurants.  A long time transplanted N.Y.'er, she does cooking classes, writes books and frequents the established places that do things like they're supposed to be done according to long standing practice.

 

third, Charles S. is a wine guy, who used to run the wine store in Bklyn Heights, then the one owned by I Trulli (across the street from the restaurant).  His wife is a cookbook author and they spend a good deal of time in Italy.  I basically agree with his restaurant tastes so I'm linking them for you:  http://charlesscicol...an-restaurants/

 

We've spent some time there over the past several years, but I'm not sure that the places we've enjoyed (other than Charles' choices) are what you're looking for.  A couple in Testaccio are informal, specializing in old Roman offal based stuff.  Send me a pm if you want details.  Have fun.


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#26 Lippy

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Posted 06 August 2014 - 03:40 PM

I'm so glad to see this thread revived, since we are going to Rome for two weeks in November.



#27 joethefoodie

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Posted 06 August 2014 - 03:46 PM

We've spent some time there over the past several years, but I'm not sure that the places we've enjoyed (other than Charles' choices) are what you're looking for.  A couple in Testaccio are informal, specializing in old Roman offal based stuff.  Send me a pm if you want details.  Have fun.

But here's the thing; this is where you're getting the best food in Rome.

 

The couple we traveled with last November went to Metamorfosi one night for dinner. Took 4-5 hours, was very expensive, and at the end they decided that much of the food was stuff they could pretty much eat in any fine food city, say San Francisco, or New York, or...  Now, I know KP likes it a lot, but she's "stuck" eating Roman food all the time.

 

Of course, it's my own taste, but when we travel to a city like Rome, we like to eat traditional Roman food.

 

That means you should mention your favorite Testaccio place!


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#28 Steve R.

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Posted 06 August 2014 - 03:54 PM

Ok, since you're a tourist, here's another Katie Parla link, from her article in Afar Magazine:  http://www.afar.com/...gn=afar_escapes

 

And, especially for Lippy:  http://romapedia.blogspot.it

 

And, just for the fun of it:  http://romeifyouwantto.com


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#29 joethefoodie

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Posted 06 August 2014 - 03:56 PM

Oh shit, I almost forgot - Pizzarium!


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#30 Lippy

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Posted 06 August 2014 - 04:01 PM

Steve, I have only two weeks!