Jump to content


Photo

[New Orleans] Root, a new restaurant


  • Please log in to reply
8 replies to this topic

#1 Rail Paul

Rail Paul

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 19,449 posts

Posted 16 March 2012 - 09:46 PM

Reviewer Brett Anderson offers a glowing appraisal of this new restaurant. Anderson's writing continues to amaze me. The words flow so wonderfully across the screen.

The weirdest thing about Lopezís bresaola is not that he uses lamb tenderloin instead of beef to make it. Itís not even that the lamb is cured with chocolate and espresso, turning it the color of an overcast sky at midnight, or that the slices are painted with a viscous mixture that includes both sweet and spicy pimentůn, Mexican chocolate, cinnamon and nutmeg.

The sweet bitter elements balanced one another out in a way that caused Lopezís ďbresaolaĒ to somehow taste more like bresaola than traditional bresaola. Such tricks are the hallmark of molecular gastronomy, the hyper technique-driven school of modernist cuisine Lopez had a chance to study in Spain with some of its leading practitioners. Another hallmark, at least in my experience, is that molecular gastronomyís deepest impressions are made in those moments when you think creativity canít be stretched any further ó and then it is.

At Root, this means that the bresaola, which we ordered to give us something to nibble on while perusing the menu, was preceded by two amuse bouche. One of them, a mind-mending duo of tortellini piped with spiced mascarpone and submerged in smoked chicken broth, incorporated fennel fronds manipulated into multiple forms. This included a powder sprinkled over the dish to, in Lopezís words, ďgive it that sort of tree frog look.Ē

The dish was consumed in less than 30 seconds. And the meal, technically speaking, hadnít even started.


Best bets: Charcuterie and salumi ($8 each); pickled shrimp and deviled eggs ($14); fennel-orange shrimp bisque ($10); smoked cornmeal encrusted oysters ($13); coriander-scented Gulf fish ($22); black-tea smoked chicken ($20); Cohiba-smoked scallops ($24); Meyer lemon trio ($8).

Root

“Jazz musicians just get better and better as the years go by. I think chefs are the same way. You know who you are.”

 

...Jonathan Waxman


#2 Evelyn

Evelyn

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 4,577 posts

Posted 16 March 2012 - 11:21 PM

This has become one of my haunts. The core of the menu stays the same. A couple of dishes changed/added for seasonal ingredients. The meyer lemon dessert was no more last week. They are tweaking a replacement featuring strawberries. The scallops are very good. The shrimp and deviled eggs and the cornmeal oysters are among my favorites. They also do a very good burger at lunch. The house cured meats are very good. They also make some interesting cocktails. The only caveat is that there can be very long waits between courses when the restaurant is busy.

#3 rancho_gordo

rancho_gordo

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 10,630 posts

Posted 17 March 2012 - 12:25 AM

This has become one of my haunts. The core of the menu stays the same. A couple of dishes changed/added for seasonal ingredients. The meyer lemon dessert was no more last week. They are tweaking a replacement featuring strawberries. The scallops are very good. The shrimp and deviled eggs and the cornmeal oysters are among my favorites. They also do a very good burger at lunch. The house cured meats are very good. They also make some interesting cocktails. The only caveat is that there can be very long waits between courses when the restaurant is busy.


What are cornmeal oysters? They sound super.

"Gay people exist. There's nothing we can do in public policy that makes more of us exist, or less of us exist. And you guys have been arguing for a generation that public policy ought to essentially demean gay people as a way of expressing disapproval of the fact that we exist, but you don't make any less of us exist. You just are arguing in favor of more discrimination, and more discrimination doesn't make straight people's lives any better." -Rachel Maddow to Jim DeMint and Ralph Reed


#4 Evelyn

Evelyn

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 4,577 posts

Posted 17 March 2012 - 02:57 AM


This has become one of my haunts. The core of the menu stays the same. A couple of dishes changed/added for seasonal ingredients. The meyer lemon dessert was no more last week. They are tweaking a replacement featuring strawberries. The scallops are very good. The shrimp and deviled eggs and the cornmeal oysters are among my favorites. They also do a very good burger at lunch. The house cured meats are very good. They also make some interesting cocktails. The only caveat is that there can be very long waits between courses when the restaurant is busy.


What are cornmeal oysters? They sound super.



Fried oysters with cornmeal used to make the crust instead of just using flour. Very common in the South ;) . In this case, the crnmeal encrusted fried oysters are served under a cloche which (like the scallops--although served in a lined Cohiba box)) has has smoked piped under it. Before the cloche is removed, the oysters 'absorb' some of the smoke. The cloche is removed and a cloud of smoke is released. Gimmicky, but, it does add some flavor. There's also a Manchego foam on the oysters and a few dashes of hot sauce. Tasty.

#5 foodie52

foodie52

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 6,340 posts

Posted 05 September 2012 - 11:44 PM

How about here? Any recent reviews?
[size="4"]Visit our website for updates...Friends of Colombian Orphans

Donations are always gratefully accepted.

#6 Evelyn

Evelyn

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 4,577 posts

Posted 06 September 2012 - 12:18 AM

How about here? Any recent reviews?



Also in my rotation. Very good. Usually very quiet at lunch. Can get crazy loud during dinner.

#7 Rail Paul

Rail Paul

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 19,449 posts

Posted 19 September 2012 - 10:52 PM


How about here? Any recent reviews?



Also in my rotation. Very good. Usually very quiet at lunch. Can get crazy loud during dinner.



Square Root to open in January 2013, per NOLA. Nine and ten course tasting menu arrangements

"Root is fun and playful and we don't want to lose that," Lopez said. "But Square Root is the grown up version."

Today Lopez moved one step closer to opening when he took the keys for 1800 Magazine St., the former location of the Shop of Two Sisters and the future home of Square Root.


Philip Lopez

“Jazz musicians just get better and better as the years go by. I think chefs are the same way. You know who you are.”

 

...Jonathan Waxman


#8 foodie52

foodie52

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 6,340 posts

Posted 19 September 2012 - 11:05 PM

We ate lunch here last week, and yes it was quiet. We shared a charcuterie board. We chose: face bacon, pancetta and smoked beef tongue. All were excellent. The board was a feast for the eyes as well. House made pickles - cucumber, melon, apple,radish and a lovely ginger chutney accompanied the meats. House made flat bread as well. It was a satisfying lunch.
[size="4"]Visit our website for updates...Friends of Colombian Orphans

Donations are always gratefully accepted.

#9 mitchells

mitchells

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 6,392 posts

Posted 30 April 2013 - 12:11 PM

Had dinner here last week and really enjoyed it. Our party of seven could not decide what to order so we let our wonderful waiter Carlos bring what he believed to be the highlights and no doubt it was the charcuterie board filled with meats, sausages, pickled vegetables and fruits and homemade mustards. Best was the duck rillettes but all fantastic. Then some pickled shrimp and deviled eggs, fried oysters and some pasta with lobster and pork belly. All terrific. The dish that caused the most discussion with some loving it and others hating it was the menage a foie, three unique preparations of foie. One was foie cotton candy, another foie dippin dots and the third I can't remember due to having one more bacon infused bourbon than necessary. Last but not least was the now famous Cohiba smoked scallops. The underrated part of this dish are the potatoes and cauliflower. And who wouldn't enjoy homemade cocoa puffs in a mint chocolate milk?

 

Other highlights of the trip was the pork belly poboy from Killer Poboys stashed in the back of the Erin Rose Bar, a great brunch at Elizabeth's Restaurant in the Bywater, dinner at Emeril's Demonico and the last but not least and what truly makes New Orleans an amazing eating city, a late night dinner at the Rock and Bowl bowling alley.  Great burgers, duck nachos and grilled oysters prepared on the deck by two women working a gas grill. All enjoyed while listening to Sonny Landreth and Tab Benoit.



All are lunatics, but he who can analyze his delusions is called a philosopher.
Ambrose Bierce