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Steakhouses? Forget About Them


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#61 Orik

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Posted 13 April 2012 - 09:24 PM



And as Orik says, it's all really too much food, too much booze. I don't have a problem with any of it but I don't understand how a steakhouse could be seen as more over-indulgent than Per Se (or wherever).


I am just talking about perception. Plenty of people will look at the food at Per Se and say, "I'll still be hungry afterwards." I know that's not true, but to the extent that Per Se is promoting conspicuous consumption, it's not presenting it as a quantity thing. In fact, it's straining not to do so.


Right. People would definitely call Per Se indulgent but, as Orik said, it's representative of something else. Steakhouses get at a macho (trader-type) culture in a way that few restaurants do - it's a conspicuously loud, unrefined, and ugly experience (descriptive, not normative).


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#62 Sneakeater

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Posted 14 April 2012 - 07:34 PM

What I'm not understanding in this thread is how it's OK to dismiss steakhouses and the taste of people who like them, when it's supposedly not OK to dismiss awful chain restaurants and the taste of people who like them.

Does anybody here really think Olive Garden is better than anyplace on the Gayot list?
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#63 Orik

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Posted 14 April 2012 - 07:38 PM

Is it that the people who believe Ye Olde Capitale Grille serves real steak are closer to us than the people who believe OG is a restaurant?
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#64 Sneakeater

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Posted 14 April 2012 - 07:52 PM

Or, from another perspective, that people who like steakhouses are presumably rich and so not deserving of any respect?
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#65 Orik

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Posted 14 April 2012 - 08:04 PM

Sure, I think the bigger part (at least for me) is that I don't know anyone who believes OG is a restaurant, therefore it never occurred to me I should spend time thinking about that. When someone did treat OG as a restaurant, we all (except Stone) thought it was just hilarious... Chris & Smith Morton at The Palm just aren't there (yet).
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#66 Anthony Bonner

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Posted 14 April 2012 - 08:25 PM

What I'm not understanding in this thread is how it's OK to dismiss steakhouses and the taste of people who like them, when it's supposedly not OK to dismiss awful chain restaurants and the taste of people who like them.

Does anybody here really think Olive Garden is better than anyplace on the Gayot list?

Because the d-bag's at Lugar's are our peers whether we want to admit it or not. We aren't speaking from a position of privilege when we dismiss them.

Or put another way - one of my best friends is in an area of finance where he basically is taking clients out twice a week. He begs them, begs them - to go to places we like to chatter about. When him and his wife dine out they go out to exactly the sort of places we do. With his clients he basically gets to do a rotation of Steakhouses and MePa factories. He has a few clients who will say Minetta or a Michael White place every once in a while. And literally he says to them "Hey lets grab dinner. Where do you want to go, on me."

I'll be honest and say I abused that system to do my first run through the NYT four stars 12 years ago. "Steakhouse no lets do something else. Gramercy Tavern? Nah MS guy took me. Yeah Jean-Georges does sound cool. What day?"
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#67 Adrian

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Posted 14 April 2012 - 08:35 PM

Agreed. It's the same reason why we're far more likely to criticize Dan Brown books and not Harlequin romances.

I think you need to interpret what I'm saying in a reasonable way.


#68 Anthony Bonner

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Posted 16 April 2012 - 12:57 PM

In light of the recent thread here - thought the first paragraph in Platt's Neta review was interesting
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#69 Adrian

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Posted 16 April 2012 - 05:50 PM

Signifier. Way of showing that you're more worldly and sophisticated than those steak scarfing trader boobs.

I think you need to interpret what I'm saying in a reasonable way.


#70 Anthony Bonner

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Posted 16 April 2012 - 05:51 PM

Signifier. Way of showing that you're more worldly and sophisticated than those steak scarfing trader boobs.

Its a signifier - but it's actually more subtle than that.
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#71 Adrian

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Posted 16 April 2012 - 05:54 PM


Signifier. Way of showing that you're more worldly and sophisticated than those steak scarfing trader boobs.

Its a signifier - but it's actually more subtle than that.


Right.

I think you need to interpret what I'm saying in a reasonable way.


#72 Sneakeater

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Posted 16 April 2012 - 06:06 PM

Time to link this again.
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