371 replies to this topic

[oakapple]

The early days of Hearth predate the MF era, but as I recall, Hearth was "hot", the way places like Perla and Il Buco Alimentari are hot today.(*) It was the place everyone wanted to go. It has not remained in the conversation, and today there probably wouldn't be many takers for a tasting menu north of $100. It's just not that kind of place any more, whether deservedly or not. Of course, Paul and Marco have shifted much of their attention to the lucrative Terroir franchise, and that may have something to do with it too.

(*) In comparing Hearth ca. 2004 to Perla or Il Buco 2012, I'm not suggesting which one(s) are better than the other(s), just saying that Hearth was one of THE places to go for a while, and for whatever reason(s) it has fallen out of that category.

[Wilfrid]

I believe the Hearth tasting has progressed from interesting to formulaic to "a bunch of courses from the carte", going down in price at each step.

It's a fairly recent development that the tasting menu ceased to be a standalone item and became a tour of the menu.

I think it's less a case of attention shifting to the Terroirs - I would bet Hearth still occupies most of Marco's attention - as the shift in dining habits and demographics we're always talking about.

Hearth was hot when it opened - believe it or not, ten years ago next year. And it drew diners who knew Marco's cooking from Craft; and - I well remember - diners who wouldn't normally have set foot in the East Village (and whined about it a lot).

Ten years on, the crowd which is the backbone of the New York dining scene is younger and prefers sitting on stools* with small plates.

*Seating reference for Orik.

[Wilfrid]

It just occurred to me that the genius of Blanca, Ko, Brooklyn Fare et al is to figure out how to fish hundreds of dollars out of people's back pockets while still having them sit on stools and eat small plates.

[Sneakeater]

That's a little unfair. The only one of those places I've been to is Ko, and to me the manifestly superior ingredient quality is worth it.

[cstuart]

You really think that these guys sit around thinking about the best way to get money from people (with the smallest risk possible)?!

[Wilfrid]

That's a little unfair. The only one of those places I've been to is Ko, and to me the manifestly superior ingredient quality is worth it.

Unfair? I wasn't aware I was saying anything derogatory.

[oakapple]

You really think that these guys sit around thinking about the best way to get money from people (with the smallest risk possible)?!

All restaurants, in one way or another, are trying to find the best way to get money from people. Building your business is not a character flaw. It's capitalism.

[Orik]

Ten years on, the crowd which is the backbone of the New York dining scene is younger and prefers sitting on stools* with small plates.

*Seating reference for Orik.

That crowd still finds its way to both Hearth and Terroir. I have no idea why, maybe it's on some list they read, or zagat.

Wasn't the chef's tasting menu at Hearth also served on stools facing the kitchen?

[Sneakeater]

Unfair? I wasn't aware I was saying anything derogatory.

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It just occurred to me that the genius of Blanca, Ko, Brooklyn Fare et al is to figure out how to fish hundreds of dollars out of people's back pockets while still having them sit on stools and eat small plates.

[cstuart]

You really think that these guys sit around thinking about the best way to get money from people (with the smallest risk possible)?!

All restaurants, in one way or another, are trying to find the best way to get money from people. Building your business is not a character flaw. It's capitalism.

But these guys don't sit around thinking of the best way to pry dollar bills from customers hands. They just don't.

[TaliesinNYC]

Ten years on, the crowd which is the backbone of the New York dining scene is younger and prefers sitting on stools* with small plates.

*Seating reference for Orik.

That crowd still finds its way to both Hearth and Terroir. I have no idea why, maybe it's on some list they read, or zagat.

Wasn't the chef's tasting menu at Hearth also served on stools facing the kitchen?

Hum, I don't remember. Yes, it's been THAT long.

[Wilfrid]

Ten years on, the crowd which is the backbone of the New York dining scene is younger and prefers sitting on stools* with small plates.

*Seating reference for Orik.

That crowd still finds its way to both Hearth and Terroir. I have no idea why, maybe it's on some list they read, or zagat.

Wasn't the chef's tasting menu at Hearth also served on stools facing the kitchen?

Terroir skews much younger. Hearth has always served all menus at tables and at the kitchen dining counter. It was ahead of the curve with that counter.

[oakapple]

You really think that these guys sit around thinking about the best way to get money from people (with the smallest risk possible)?!

All restaurants, in one way or another, are trying to find the best way to get money from people. Building your business is not a character flaw. It's capitalism.

But these guys don't sit around thinking of the best way to pry dollar bills from customers hands. They just don't.

Sure they do. Of course, they're not "sitting around"; they're working at it. "Prying dollar bills from customers' hands" is just a pejorative description of what people think is somehow unwholesome. "Working day and night to build and grow a successful business" would be a better way of putting it.

[Sneakeater]

But these guys -- at least some of them -- might also be artisans seeking self-expression who only care about making their nut so they can stay open.

[Sneakeater]

Lest you think I'm being naive, look at this recent piece from the Times -- where the small business owners weren't even seeking "self-expression".