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[Rail Paul]

Craig LaBan offers his updated Four Bells list for 2012. These are restaurants that deliver a consistent, top of their game performance. The "three bell" group underneath these include Amada, Morimoto, Osteria, Talula's Garden, Lacroix (demoted from four bells) and Tinto.

There's a detailed description of each establishment on the page containing this story.

Bibou - Pierre Calmels, working with his wife, Charlotte, in a South Philadelphia BYOB, is the rare chef with the polish and feeling to make oldies seem fresh and new.

Fountain - Chef William DiStefano cooks like it’s 2012 at the grand, timeless main room at the Four Seasons — and proving a talent worth wider notice.

Talula's Table - Why does every dinner I savor at this Kennett Square BYOB seem more inspired than the last? The real answer is Aimee Olexy.

Vetri - Marc Vetri, cooking from a Center City brownstone, remains a singular leader for his generation and why his namesake restaurant remains our very best.

Zahav - Under chef Michael Solomonov, who can be found in front of his wood-fired taboon oven, this Society Hill Israeli is living up to its name. It translates to "gold."

Philadelphia Inquirer