Posted 16 May 2006 - 07:41 AM
Gordo, my favorite ceviches are shrimp ceviches. I eat them like mad when I'm in Mexico and then come back here and suffer constant disappointment in the quality of shrimp I can get.
When I make it, I'm using frozen shrimp and always par-boil them. I don't think you need to fully cook them, but I think it's recommended that you give them a quick boil for safety's sake.
However, in Mexico the best I've had were definitely made with raw shrimp. The texture difference was noticeable. But this was at places where they got the shrimp live that morning.
I think it's pretty well-established that Peru is the culinary home of ceviche and pre-dates the conquest, even though, obviously, the use of citrus was post-conquest. I know that there was some suggestion that tamarillos might have been used pre-conquest.
In Peru I think the most common accompaniment in a ceviche is red onion (julienned). At a Peruvian restaurant here in Portland, they do a modern version with green mangoes and passion fruit juice that is terrific.
I'm working on a ceviche report for Portland and another place has a really tasty ceviche that mixes in coconut cream and ginger to give it a creamy texture and balance the tanginess.
There's also another place that does one sort of Veracruz style, with olive oil, capers, olives, and tomatoes. Very yummy.
In Mexico, 99% of ceviches are very similar: diced tomatoes, diced onions, and diced fish, shrimp, or other seafood in a limey dressing with cilantro served with a side of tostadas, chips, or soda crackers. Very clean and simple. I think the most common mistake with ceviche is to make it too limey or to use limes that are too bitter and old.