Paris Bistros, Restos
#451
Posted 31 May 2011 - 01:04 AM
I would go to Saturne for lunch if you are looking for a lunch option. Just eliminate from you mind that it's anywhere close to a 2-star Michelin. Think hopefully-good modern bistro and you'll probably have a good experience. You'll probably enjoy the wine list, too.
#452
Posted 31 May 2011 - 01:26 AM
Spring is low-60s, I believe. With matching wines, 120. My matching wines were just fine, not special. No Vincent Dancer! A COS white. a COS red. Hey, are we in France or Italy? Pretty modest pours, in fact. It's an enjoyable place, but a bit over-hyped in my view. No bargain either for what it is.
I would go to Saturne for lunch if you are looking for a lunch option. Just eliminate from you mind that it's anywhere close to a 2-star Michelin. Think hopefully-good modern bistro and you'll probably have a good experience. You'll probably enjoy the wine list, too.
I'm leaning towards Le Cinq for lunch, your prior suggestion seemed like a good one.
Only two lunches, one on Sunday (traditionally l'As du Fallafel carried to the Place des Voges for us).
So I'm thinking Friday dinner, and especially Sunday dinner if La Cagouille isn't anything special. (Nancy got me thinking, I love simple fish, but after five days in Portugal and five days in Venice, I will be looking for something less simple).
I didn't see anything on Atelier de Joel Robuchon, that's the place I have planned to go for the last two Sunday nights in Paris, but have always been too full by then to go. (I'd forget about anything fancy re: wine). Any comments on that? Would it be hard to get in around 9pm Sunday?
I definitely appreciate the time and advice from you, Nancy, Orik et. al.
By the way, I'll probably be solo on Friday July 1, so if anyone is up for a late-ish dinner, let me know, you can pick the place.
#453
Posted 31 May 2011 - 07:00 AM
I really like those grand hotel dining rooms like Le Meurice and so on.
#454
Posted 31 May 2011 - 12:47 PM
#455
Posted 31 May 2011 - 03:39 PM
Your choice
fresh from the market
Melon from the Provence region
- sweet pepper iceberg
- water melon millefeuille with burrata cheese
- smoked anchovies pissaladiere
Milk-fed veal tartar
and oysters from the lake of Thau, seaweed condiments
Browned blue shrimps
with spicy Colombo, peas cream and coriander
Heart of salmon
crunchy shiso leaf crisp shoots and black sesame
Like a stewed allaiton lamb
early vegetables, chop and sweetbread flavoured with parsley and garlic
Red fruits cocktail
in hibiscus jelly, sour ewe cream, basil mousse
Milky chocolate and raspbpberry shortbread
sweet pepper sorbet
Chilled «ciflorette» strawberry from a garden
and vanilla rhubarb, rose water sorbet
85 Euros - three courses meal
97 Euros - with our selection of «Maîtres fromagers» cheese
#456
Posted 08 June 2011 - 12:58 AM
Just go.
But Chambo, why should we trust you when you had umpteen glasses of champagne before you even tasted those canapés.
I can only shrug my shoulders and say “Just go”.
But Chambo, did you even pay that much attention to the food or were you dining with your buddy and planning your upcoming weekend in Burgundy.
I can only shrug my shoulders and say “Just go”.
But Chambo, did you order the 4 plate who-the-hell-knows-what-they-are-serving or the 6 plate who-the-hell-knows-what-they-are-serving?
The 6 plate. Just go.
But Chambo, I have no idea if I’ll like the décor there.
C’est un décor tout en grisaille. Moderne. Chic. Artistic photos of tattooed models with serious attitude. When talking with the chef and asking for his interpretation of the photos he said “Un peu brutal. J’adore les photos qui intriguent.”
Nuff said. Just go.
But Chambo, that’s just the color scheme and what’s hanging on the walls, what about the décor de la table?
Good question. C’est une vaisselle “design”. Funky champagne flutes. Very cool SiloDesign isotherme carafes. Like I said, moderne. Just go.
But Chambo, admit it, the food has some real issues. Admit it, Chambo !
Yeh, true, so? I said “Just go”. I didn’t say perfection. I didn’t say without flaws. I didn’t say that some dishes weren't weak. But, none of that matters. Just go.
But Chambo, NONE OF THAT MATTERS ! Hello? Please explain.
Look, it’s late, I’m tired, the details are just details. And it doesn’t matter one iota what I say about tonight’s dishes because, next week, the entire menu changes. Give me a break, will ya?
No Chambo! No break! Explain!
You people are seriously, seriously annoying ! Did anyone every tell you that ! Fine, a couple of tidbits.
The canapés weren’t that great. The amuse was une huitre “gin & tonic”. I haven’t had that before. Have you? A good oyster (une fine claire). The rest of the dish didn’t work at all. My colleague concurred completely. When asked what the foam and the granita were, I was told that the granita was a vodka granita. I said “Vodka granita? Dans une huitre 'gin & tonic'?". Yes, sir. “Extremement creative! Bravo! I would have thought that gin might have been in there?” Whatever. A failed amuse, but I’m open-minded.
Asperges vertes, boeuf seché, jaune d’oeuf, paté de citron de Menton. Ya baby! Much better. Striking yellow-colored gooey egg yolk. Intense paté citron. Not just a lemon, but a lemon from Menton. Picture green, yellow, with some whitish foam something-or-other.
Just go.
Langoustines mi-cuit, sitting on a rich, dark brown, tiny puddle of jus de tete de langoustine, with two puree de chou-fleur streaks. Aesthetic presentation. Two tiny langoustines, seriously delicious. At this point, the servers are beginning to pay attention to our table because we are giving them real, honest feedback. They solicit our opinion. “C’etait vraiment excellent. Mais il y avait seulement deux petites langoustines. Il faut douze!”
Just go.
A simply gorgeous looking rouget dish. Striking. Haunting. I can still see it vividly. Picasso’s Demoiselles d’Avignon. Titian’s Venus d’Urbino. L’Akrame’s Rouget, topped with a radiant red sauce de groseille, sitting upon a pedestal of garish green petits pois, with the peas positioned upon a glowing green, perfectly square carpet of puree de petits pois on a white porcelain plate. A work of art. A beautiful work of art that tasted mediocre. The sauce de groseille was aggressively tart. The rouget was room-temperature, if not cool, although the chef will later say that it was served as intended. If so, he needs to modify his intentions. The dish was lacking in salt. I added some. Net net, the dish needs to be tweaked a bit, but like any young, blossoming woman with enormous potential, a man with vision can see that it’s on the verge of making many heads turn.
Just go.
I could continue to bore you with many more mots about Kobe beef, comté coupé tres tres fine comme un pappardelle avec du miel and a chocolate dessert that was accompanied by an unusual meringue cookie that was a spooky dark silver color.
The meringue had a delicate, but slightly sharp, briny taste. Bafflingly to me. I couldn't place it at all.
My dining colleague says he’s willing to wager the price of the dinner that he can guess the flavor of the meringue. Up front, he tells me his response. I agree to the wager. I lose. He was correct. It was indeed a meringue de l’encre de seiche!.
Can you effing believe that my bozo banker friend, a Frenchman who doesn’t know squat about food nor wine, who probably played a pertinent part decimating the world’s financial system just a few years ago, pulled a stinky, inky cuttlefish out of his derriere that resulted in me paying for the entire bill.
And after that trauma, what words of wisdom can I offer:
Just go.
There's nothing better in the city at this price. Tomorrow? Who knows.
#457
Posted 08 June 2011 - 04:51 PM
#458
Posted 10 June 2011 - 10:34 AM
Upon some sober reflection, I want to slightly reel in my words about L'Akrame.
First, just go. No change there. It's a very worthy place if the Springs and Saturnes of the world interest you. The comment "nothing better in the city at this price point" is too strong a statement and setting expectations too high. L'Akrame is priced at Spring's exact price point and it's probably a coin toss as to which will be better on any given day. You just never know what they did or did not buy at the market for your surprise menu. Both are Michelin one-star level.
Effectively, l'Akrame is indeed a Spring (or Saturne) clone with a very light touch on how the proteins are cooked (langoustines, rouget, Kobe beef), more focus on very pretty presentation of dishes, less chefy-ness or complexity or extra flowers/nuts/greens tossed in a la Saturne, more simplicity and focus on fewer ingredients that are front and center. That said, foams do appear here and there. l'Akrame should add a matching wines by the glass option. They bring you a wine list but how are you supposed to order a bottle when you have no idea what's being served! Obviously, some discussion is necessary. Our sommelier / sometimes server (the guy looked familiar to me, I asked where he used to work, he answered "Le Meurice, Le Bristol", I said "Ah, oui") knew the wine list well and suggested we start with a 30 euro Gaillac white. I said, "You sure?". Turned out to be perfectly fine. He threw in a glass of wine towards the end for the beef.
#459
Posted 10 June 2011 - 11:07 AM
We enjoyed ourselves. The place has a nice feel to it and a good, cool, easy-going crowd. I specifically asked to be seated in the room to the left upon entry that has the view of the open kitchen. You should too. Not because the open kitchen is so wonderful to stare at but because it's a more spacious, windowed room. Service was kind of weak. Our server was a very nice guy but he never seemed to be present. Strange. It didn't take away from the meal all that much because we were busy conversing but multiple times throughout I was saying to myself "Where is that guy? Our water is empty. Now, our bread is empty. Our wine hasn't arrived". I consider it to be a fluke.
4 starters in the mid-teens. 3 mains in the high-twenties. 2 desserts and a cheese. That's the whole shebang. We all ordered differently. Hence, we had the entire menu (except for the cheese and les asperges blanches. I had a different version of the asparagus starter at my prior lunch) Food was solidly good, modern plating and preparations, but I must admit that I was expecting just a bit more "something" at dinner. The portion sizes could have been more generous across the board. The others agreed. Don't have time for details. Here's what we ate to give you a feel:
Poireaux / Fromage de tete / Huitre
Gnocchetti / Mais-Choux rave / Vieux Gouda
Couteau / Beurre d'herbes / Fleur de coriandre
Barbue / Vierge Groseille-Cassis / Courgette
Volaille du Patis / Oignon doux / Champignon
Agneau / Artichaut / Asperges vertes
Chocolat / Passion / Caramel
Fraises / P'tit pois - P'tit suisse / Fleur
The way he uses flowers and veggies reminds me a bit of Saturne.
Oh yeah, one last thing. With a diverse set of plates, what to do about wine. We started with a white wine appertif. I look at the red list. A 2009 / 2010 Morgon? Maybe. A 2009 bourgogne de Frederic Cossard? Better, wouldn't mind trying the 2009. I confer with our server who knows the wine list. He says both are drinking quite nicely. Cossard, it is. Starters all arrive. Still don't have the wine. He realizes that when delivering the starters. Wine arrives. I inspect the bottle. Hmmm, a 2008? I ask to take a quick peek at the wine list. "Pourquoi, monsieur?" Thought that the wine list said 2009? "Non, monsieur." Could I just take a quick quick peek. Yep, the 3 Cossards on the list are all 2009. He apologizes. I accept the wine cuz he said this is indeed the vintage that he had described, notwithstanding the misprint. It was perfectly fine, in a more delicate 2008 sort of a way. No biggie, but hey guys, am I really the first one to point this out to you? I hope you fix your wine list by tomorrow lunch.
#460
Posted 10 June 2011 - 11:15 AM
Brandade de morue gratinée.
Piments Padron poelés
Rognons de veau sautés
Un Morgan de Marcel Lapierre
Poitrine de porc caramelize
Un Fitou
A decent option for a quick snack in the 6th when you have missed lunchtime. Tapas style. Eaten while standing. Using toothpicks. Rolls, butter, cornichons, onions available gratis for all.
#461
Posted 10 June 2011 - 12:00 PM
Thanks for the details.Back to Septime for dinner last night with a couple of NY ladies last night.
We enjoyed ourselves. The place has a nice feel to it and a good, cool, easy-going crowd. I specifically asked to be seated in the room to the left upon entry that has the view of the open kitchen. You should too. Not because the open kitchen is so wonderful to stare at but because it's a more spacious, windowed room. Service was kind of weak. Our server was a very nice guy but he never seemed to be present. Strange. It didn't take away from the meal all that much because we were busy conversing but multiple times throughout I was saying to myself "Where is that guy? Our water is empty. Now, our bread is empty. Our wine hasn't arrived". I consider it to be a fluke.
4 starters in the mid-teens. 3 mains in the high-twenties. 2 desserts and a cheese. That's the whole shebang. We all ordered differently. Hence, we had the entire menu (except for the cheese and les asperges blanches. I had a different version of the asparagus starter at my prior lunch) Food was solidly good, modern plating and preparations, but I must admit that I was expecting just a bit more "something" at dinner. The portion sizes could have been more generous across the board. The others agreed. Don't have time for details. Here's what we ate to give you a feel:
Poireaux / Fromage de tete / Huitre
Gnocchetti / Mais-Choux rave / Vieux Gouda
Couteau / Beurre d'herbes / Fleur de coriandre
Barbue / Vierge Groseille-Cassis / Courgette
Volaille du Patis / Oignon doux / Champignon
Agneau / Artichaut / Asperges vertes
Chocolat / Passion / Caramel
Fraises / P'tit pois - P'tit suisse / Fleur
The way he uses flowers and veggies reminds me a bit of Saturne.
Oh yeah, one last thing. With a diverse set of plates, what to do about wine. We started with a white wine appertif. I look at the red list. A 2009 / 2010 Morgon? Maybe. A 2009 bourgogne de Frederic Cossard? Better, wouldn't mind trying the 2009. I confer with our server who knows the wine list. He says both are drinking quite nicely. Cossard, it is. Starters all arrive. Still don't have the wine. He realizes that when delivering the starters. Wine arrives. I inspect the bottle. Hmmm, a 2008? I ask to take a quick peek at the wine list. "Pourquoi, monsieur?" Thought that the wine list said 2009? "Non, monsieur." Could I just take a quick quick peek. Yep, the 3 Cossards on the list are all 2009. He apologizes. I accept the wine cuz he said this is indeed the vintage that he had described, notwithstanding the misprint. It was perfectly fine, in a more delicate 2008 sort of a way. No biggie, but hey guys, am I really the first one to point this out to you? I hope you fix your wine list by tomorrow lunch.
#462
Posted 15 June 2011 - 01:28 PM
I also went to Glou -- near Breizh café -- good place for a salad and some nice wines -- we had the 09 Morgon Cote de Py by Foillard.
#463
Posted 15 June 2011 - 11:50 PM
She loved it. I enjoyed it. The people here are very nice. The sommelier David is truly a pleasure. Let him guide you. And I'm buddies with Akrame now. Granted, it's now twice in a row that we were the last to leave. Shooting the shite with David and Akrame was a lot of fun.
We chose the 4 plate as opposed to the 6 plate dinner this time. Go for the 6.
A bit of repetition. After a couple of canapes and the amuse, a similar oyster entree with a foam. Not a "gin and tonic" this time, but a different, more successful version. Nothing to get too excited about though.
Second dish was homard bleu a la vanille with some greens vs les langoustines last time. I thought that the sauce a la vanille was a slight bit too strong, mainly because the lobster (slices perpendicular from the tail) was not lobstery enough. Good potential concept, but better lobster is required. Lobster was mi-cuit, mi-cru.
Next dish was another variation on the boeuf wagyu. This time with peas.
Then dessert.
Less artistic presentation stuff going on tonight. I don't know if that was due to the 4 plate vs 6 plate thang or just due to normal variation. I mentally noted that the presentations were not at all what we experienced last time.
All in all, I like the people, I like the style of the food, I like the ambience. It's surely worth a meal at its modest price point.
Tomorrow: Aida.
Friday: Dinner party for 14. Chambo is in charge of the wine. Good thing I just got back from la Bourgogne.
Twice today, people mentioned excitedly that Thierry Marx is going to open his first Parisian restaurant in the Mandarin Oriental in the next few weeks. I've eaten at Cordeillan Bages a couple of times. Ehhh. Too much theatrics and sillyness for my taste. We'll see ...
#464
Posted 16 June 2011 - 10:34 AM
She is in charge of everything food and wine related. We talked for a nice bit afterwords. I was trying to coax a few interesting addresses from her. It's pretty disappointing when you are updating the journalist on her own beat. Geesh ...
The only tidbit that she had to add that was news to me was the Thierry Marx resto soon to open. David, the Akrame sommelier, also mention it last night. David used to work at Cordeillan Bages with M. Marx, by the way. David also worked at Le Bristol and at Le Meurice. He's young. He knows his stuff. And he's passionate. Perfect combo.
#465
Posted 16 June 2011 - 12:06 PM
Photos of the dining room of the restaurant space in the Mandarin Oriental look quite serene.When I was at Coutume Cafe yesterday, being educated on the roasting process by co-owner Antoine, a journalist from Elle magazine asked if she could join the conversation. Bien sur!
She is in charge of everything food and wine related. We talked for a nice bit afterwords. I was trying to coax a few interesting addresses from her. It's pretty disappointing when you are updating the journalist on her own beat. Geesh ...
The only tidbit that she had to add that was news to me was the Thierry Marx resto soon to open. David, the Akrame sommelier, also mention it last night. David used to work at Cordeillan Bages with M. Marx, by the way. David also worked at Le Bristol and at Le Meurice. He's young. He knows his stuff. And he's passionate. Perfect combo.










