460 replies to this topic

[oakapple]

Within the last few years, you've got Momofuku Ko, Atera, Torrisi, Brooklyn Fare, and now WD~50 introducing big-ticket tasting menus costing over $100. Ko, BF, and Torrisi are hits, Atera just got four stars from a notoriously stingy critic, and I am assuming Wylie did his research.

Best I can tell, the old-school four-stars (EMP, JG, LeB, DP, Daniel, Per Se) are full, or nearly so, most of the time. Add the old school to the new school, and within the space of a few years, you've got a remarkable expansion of the number of successful places with a $100 minimum entry price.

Of course, I am counting Del Posto and EMP as old school in their service style; neither breached the $100 barrier until after they got four stars, and Jean Georges surpassed that barrier only recently. The Modern is knocking on the door at $98, and somehow Gordon Ramsay is still in business at $135.

Romera would've been in the same category. What sank Romera was NOT that people were unwilling to drop that kind of coin, but that it just wasn't very good.

[Sneakeater]

Not to keep at this like a dog with a bone, but it isn't only the cost. It's the time commitment. And the amount of food you've got to eat. And the lack of choice.

[rozrapp]

But it's not an issue at The Modern, since at The Modern you can order a la carte in the dining room (so you're not forced to eat at the bar if you're with people who aren't maniacs).

I'm talking specifically about the bar at WD-50 (which isn't a "bar room" or a "bar area" but a bar).

In the Modern Dining Room, the basic menu is a 4-course prix-fixe for $98. I don't consider that "a la carte." To me, "a la carte" has always meant a menu of dishes priced individually from which you can choose as few or as may as you want.

[Sneakeater]

I shouldn't have said "a la carte". What I meant is, it's a fairly normal dinner (with choices as to each course) and not a multi-multi-course tasting menu (as to which you have little or no choice at all).

[rozrapp]

Within the last few years, you've got Momofuku Ko, Atera, Torrisi, Brooklyn Fare, and now WD~50 introducing big-ticket tasting menus costing over $100. Ko, BF, and Torrisi are hits, Atera just got four stars from a notoriously stingy critic, and I am assuming Wylie did his research.

Corton did away with the 3-course prix-fixe in favor of two tasting menu. SHO Shaun Hergatt used to have an a la carte menu but has dispensed with it and now offers only a tasting menu.

[joethefoodie]

Not to keep at this like a dog with a bone, but it isn't only the cost. It's the time commitment. And the amount of food you've got to eat. And the lack of choice.

Totally agree.

[Orik]

Not to keep at this like a dog with a bone, but it isn't only the cost. It's the time commitment. And the amount of food you've got to eat. And the lack of choice.

And desserts. Who wants that?

[Adrian]

There are obvious economic reasons to do this as well, so long as you're filling the place.

ETA: I guess it brings cost certainty even if you're not filling the place. Can be big. Isn't this the whole game for these places - if you're operating outside of a non-unionized hotel context, then you've got to keep costs way down and food costs are one of the major variable costs, no?

[oakapple]

Corton did away with the 3-course prix-fixe in favor of two tasting menu. SHO Shaun Hergatt used to have an a la carte menu but has dispensed with it and now offers only a tasting menu.

Yes, I should have included Corton, where the minimum entry price is now $115 for seven courses (plus amuses, I assume).

Hergatt offers four courses for $85, and there are multiple choices for each course, so I wouldn't put it in the same category as the others.

[Wilfrid]

The story doesn't say this -- but he sees the success of Momofuku Ko, Brooklyn Fare, and more recently Atera, and says: I'm on their level, but the media lately aren't saying so.

Yes. In the article, Chang makes the case that Dufresne is underappreciated, and I think that's true these days.

This is quite exciting. I do worry a little about them filling seats though. WD-50 is much bigger than those other three restaurants.

[Wilfrid]

I'm talking specifically about the bar at WD-50 (which isn't a "bar room" or a "bar area" but a bar).

Point of information, there are bar tables at WD-50. Whether a la carte dishes will be available at them, I don't know.

[oakapple]

Grubz has the new menu.

[Wilfrid]

This is appealing:

If you're eating at the bar, you can get any two items off either menu for $25, with the option to try any other dishes you want for $15 each.

Four courses $55, five courses $70.

[Sneakeater]

That's really appealing. I'm sure I'll find myself spending more time at that bar.

[Wilfrid]

Snap. Also, I often walk by early in the week, so I will be able to snatch some quiet bar time there.