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#4891 Sneakeater

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Posted 10 January 2019 - 05:25 AM

Speaking of Tina Turner, I'm sure I linked this already, but did you all read the New York Times "By the Book" interview with her?

 

It has to be one of the best things I read last year.  (If nothing else -- but there's so much more -- that story about her and her sons . . . .) (I would love to talk to her sons about the moment they realized their mother was Tina Turner.)


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#4892 Behemoth

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Posted 10 January 2019 - 07:50 PM

Speaking of Tina Turner, I'm sure I linked this already, but did you all read the New York Times "By the Book" interview with her?

 

It has to be one of the best things I read last year.  (If nothing else -- but there's so much more -- that story about her and her sons . . . .) (I would love to talk to her sons about the moment they realized their mother was Tina Turner.)

thanks for this! 


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#4893 Sneakeater

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Posted 15 January 2019 - 07:20 AM

Montreal-style venison tri-tip.  Very buttered sautéed bok choy on the side.  And (making use of the vegetables left from today's batch of capon stock) a first, semi-realized stab at a sort of Ashkenazi version of Monfungo (the fully realized version would be fried in schmaltz and stuffed with gribenes).

 

God this was good.

 

And the pairing was, like, perfect.

 

2005 Stone Hill Norton "Old Vine Reserve"

 

From Hermann, Missouri:  a wine whose followers all insist goes great with venison.  But its odd fruitiness -- this is a New World grape, after all -- makes you think it might go better with a spiced-up adulterated venison dish like this.  And it does!

 

The first question is whether Norton can really age this long.  And the answer is, not really.  This wine is evidently a few years past its peak.  But in a way, that made it a better match for this dish:  it's developed a slightly sour finish (this wine is quite acidic even at its best), which really complements the smoked meat spices and the slight (welcome) pissiness I noted in this New Zealand farmed venison the first time I had some last week.

 

So you get brambly berry/cherry/red currant fruit at the opening -- there's still a good deal left -- and then you move into this odd sour finish.  I'm not sure this is what the winemakers intended -- but it was good tonight.

 

I only wish famous Montreal-style steak fan Leonard Cohen could have been here to share this dinner.  I think even he would have been impressed.


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#4894 Sneakeater

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Posted 15 January 2019 - 06:18 PM

That venison also gave me the chance to try out my new Thermoworks ChefAlarm. Not only does this handy device warn me when a chef is approaching -- it also functions as an in-oven thermometer.

Oddly, it warned me that I was undercooking the meat. Was it calibrated by my mother?
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#4895 Sneakeater

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Posted 16 January 2019 - 06:45 AM

Out of pique at Bar Boulud (which upon opening had posited itself as a late-night post-theater option) for not being open after the closing of Pelleas et Melisande at the Met, I told the readers of my newsletter to get into a cab and go down to Great New York Noodletown after the show.

 

I myself went home and reheated (in housemade shrimp stock) some leftovers from Great New York Noodletown:  noodles and pork and scallops and stuff.  I sautéed my own bok choy on the side.

 

Boy did I ace the pairing.

 

2016 Filipa Pato & William Wouters Nossa Calcario Bical

 

This natural Portuguese wine -- made by the daughter (now working with her husband) of a legendary oddball winemaker who has now established herself as maybe the best Portuguese winemaker of her generation -- tastes like a Chenin Blanc (meaning:  honeyed fruit!) with sea salt and a lot more acid.

 

Can you think of anything better with a Chinese noodles 'n' scallops dish?  I didn't think so.


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#4896 Sneakeater

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Posted 16 January 2019 - 07:02 AM

May I say that I totally join with Peter Creasy in HATING wax wine-bottle capsules?  Just stop this shit.


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#4897 Wilfrid

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Posted 17 January 2019 - 12:37 AM

Bok Choi ma facon. Well done.

How well I remember Picholine servers audibly whining about staying open to serve post-Lincoln Theater audiences.

#4898 Sneakeater

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Posted 22 January 2019 - 05:25 AM

The second and final batch of those Noodletown leftovers, scallops and stuff on noodles.  More sautéed bok choy on the side.

 

For the first batch, I thought hard about a pairing.  Tonight I just went for the default.

 

2014 Charlene & Laurent Pinson Petit Chablis

 

No way these leftovers were getting a full-bore Chablis.  But the Portlandian simplicity of a Petit Chablis was just the thing.

 

This is another one of those simple very well-made wines that don't surprise or shock you but greatly satisfy.  Pretty classic (Petit) Chablis flavor profile:  lots of sharp grapefruit, some herbs, sharp slatey minerals.  The slight surprise here is the fairly high salinity of the finish:  almost like a Muscadet.  That pleasant surprise only made the wine a better match for the scallop dish.

 

If what's good about Chablis is the tense energy, then this wine was totally characteristic.

 

You could drink this wine a lot and be very happy.


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#4899 joethefoodie

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Posted 22 January 2019 - 10:53 AM

You could drink this wine a lot and be very happy.

Or, you could drink a lot of this wine and be very happy.



#4900 Sneakeater

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Posted 25 January 2019 - 04:45 AM

Leftover steak (cold) and cardoons with bone marrow (reheated) from a restaurant.  House-fried potatoes (with salt and lots and lots of La Boîte Blue Grass) on the side.

 

With it all, a wine the restaurant never would serve in a million years.

 

2001 Viña Rufina Alta Gama Riserva

 

A Tempranillo from Cigales.  A big wine like a Ribera del Duero.

 

It's old.  The fruit is diminishing.  It has that old-wine sour finish.

 

All of which brings it closer to what I normally drink.

 

The wines I drink these days, though, would never fill my mouth the way this (still) does.  But I can't say it's unpleasant.  There's no jam, no glycerine, no Big Swinging Dickery.  Just a lot of flavor -- flavor probably made more interesting by the passage of time.

 

Really, for Big Beef, this is a pretty fine pairing.

 

Drink up, though.


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#4901 Sneakeater

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Posted 26 January 2019 - 04:34 AM

Wood pigeon on toast.  Sautéed bok choy and smashed celeriac on the side.

 

How do I love wood pigeon?  I love it for its gamey taste:  just this side of grouse (but still only slightly livery -- not more livery than liver, like the dread mink whale).  I love it cuz it's sized perfectly for a solo diner.  I love it cuz, like all game birds, it's ridiculously easy to cook if you don't get it in your head to make a pithivier or something.  And I love to eat it at home alone, so I can just pick it up and gnaw instead of daintily carving it.

 

And, when you're done . . . stock.

 

One of the fun things about cooking (I'm not being faux naif here:  this is old to you guys but new to me) is that you get to perfect dishes, correcting for mistakes in past attempts.  I now have this wood pigeon dish down.

 

The BBC recipe I use recommends Chianti as the wine you use in cooking the bird (they have you use much too much, BTW -- which leaves more to drink when adjusted to reality).

 

2013 Fattoria Corzano e Paterno Chianti Riserva "I Tre Borri"

 

Having had a wine that was arguably too old last night, tonight I moved to a wine that is arguably too young.

 

This was one of the last vintages in which this 100% Sangiovese was even called a Chianti (the maker has since declassified it to a Rosso Tuscano).  I don't think 100% Sangiovese wines should even be allowed to be called "Chiantis"; I want the blend (I even wish they still required white grapes instead of outlawing them, as they now do).

 

But this wine is no fiasco.  It has that characteristic Chianti dusty (black cherry) fruit, and those dusty Chianti tannins.  (Drinking Chianti, you'd think Tuscany lies under a perpetual dust layer.)  I was afraid this product of a transplanted Swiss professional family would be too Modern, but their approach of using large oak barrels gives just the right amount of toast on the finish (also, of course, there remains that characteristic Chianti acid jolt).  Anyway, while the Founder was a Swiss architect on a lark, the current generation are dedicated Tuscan farmers:  their olive oil is probably better known than their wine.  And they are strictly organic (the only fertilizer they use comes from their sheep), although not "natural".

 

This isn't anything like my favorite wine.  But it's hugely enjoyable.  (And it's drinking fine now.)


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#4902 Wilfrid

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Posted 27 January 2019 - 02:54 AM

D’Artagnan wood pigeon?

As I’ve probably said repeatedly, one thing I’ve always missed about living in London was buying pigeon and wild rabbits, really inexpensively and easily. Wild rabbits were almost free, they were so plentiful.

#4903 Sneakeater

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Posted 27 January 2019 - 03:29 AM

Yeah D’Artagnan.


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#4904 Sneakeater

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Posted 29 January 2019 - 04:41 AM

Bucatini (duck egg) carbonara.  Except that instead of guanciale I used tasso!  In the 1980s, that would have put me at the very forefront of creative cooking.

 

Charred mustard greens on the side.  I didn't char them on purpose -- but I have to say they tasted good that way.

 

I thought pretty hard about the pairing.  My default pairing for carbonara is a Roero Arneis.  But I thought the spiciness of the tasso would require something a little tangier.  So -- although this dish doesn't resemble anything that would ever be eaten in Bordeaux -- I opted for a Bordeaux Blanc, which would have the roundness of an Arneis but with the added tang of Sauvignon Blanc.

 

2015 Chateau Turcaud

 

This is one of those very well-made modest wines that are not going burn down any barns but have a ridiculously high QPR for midweek drinking.  Indeed, there's an awful lot going on here for less than $15 the bottle.  Lots of different fruits at the start -- citrus, apples, even some melon -- and then a modest wash of wet slatey minerals.  All with the larger-than-small mouthfeel (this is only half SB; most of the rest is Semillon, with a tiny bit of Muscadelle) I wanted with the carbonara.  And all that Semillon gave it an almost off-dry quality that was really good with the tasso.


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#4905 voyager

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Posted 29 January 2019 - 02:44 PM


Charred mustard greens on the side.  I didn't char them on purpose -- but I have to say they tasted good that way.

 

 

Bitter(ish) greens + char =  :D 

Even kale loses its ick.


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