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Driving in Istria, Slovenia, and Friuli Venezia


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#1 Rail Paul

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Posted 24 August 2013 - 04:02 PM

NY Times has an article about  rental car travel in the northern Croatia / southern Istria peninsula.  Although there are modern and uncluttered tollways, there are also lots of rutted roads, difficult driving, but many delightful small towns.

 

It seems every town has a variation of the malvasia grape, and many are superb. The writer reports on many of them.

 

 

 

The waiter presented me with a bucket of the day’s catch. I selected the sarago, a sweet, fleshy white fish. It arrived perfectly grilled, following a chilled cuttlefish and squid salad and a bowl of tagliatelle with mussels, generously splashed with a brilliant local olive oil.

Oh, and he also brought out a carafe of white wine known as malvasia istriana, produced by a local winemaker named Frank Arman. Its color was limpid gold, and it possessed a subtle saltiness that rippled down my throat. In the sparkling little postcard world I found myself inhabiting that afternoon, the wine blended into the background — and that was its beauty: it was a peerless, understated accompaniment to the seafood, and it bound everything together. It was why I was in Istria in the first place.

 

http://travel.nytime...ref=travel&_r=0

 

 

Rovinj lies about 20 miles south of Porec and possesses the casual insouciance of the artist’s burg it happens to be. I dined that night at Monte, an airy and theatrically lighted restaurant presided over by a striking platinum-haired Dutch woman dressed all in white. The seven-course meal began with semi-crudi of tuna, scampi and scallop heated with a propane torch and served on a bed of seashells, pebbles and rosemary sprigs. It reached its zenith with a slow-roasted suckling pig accompanied by pork rind and paprika foam. You can bet that great malvasia and olive oil (the latter served in test tubes) was within reach. All in all, Monte delivered an agreeably clever spin on the region’s oceanic and inland staples, with flourishes indicative of Istria’s portrait-of-the-artist-as-a-young-man status today.

 


Dreams come in all sizes, shapes, and colors.

#2 Suzanne F

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Posted 27 August 2013 - 03:15 PM

Who wrote that--Ligaya Mishan? :rolleyes:


I don't actually know what a handbasket is -- but whatever they are, singer-songwriters are in the first ones going to hell. -- Sneakeater, 29 March 2018 - 12:06 AM

 

notorious stickler -- NY Times
deeply annoying and nitpicking -- Molly O'Neill, One Big Table


#3 Chambolle

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Posted 26 May 2016 - 09:28 AM

That is a simply AWESOME article, Rail Paul ! You rock !

Chambo is in the process of verifying whether that guy actually knows what he is talking about. 

For most part, he's got the right wine-makers. Impressive !

If he passes inspection then that may indeed be pretty close to my Istrian itinerary ...

 

Chambo I'll be in Udine in two weeksweeks for work! Just ask around for Brunate.

 

I have NOT gotten an answer on Brunate, Bonner ! I am STILL waiting patiently ...

 

Please elaborate ! That is a direct command from the general command.

 

So chambo do you have a hotel rec in Udine for me or what

 

Chambo - any Udine adjacent reccs?

 

This info is NOT personally vouched for ... hence I am extremely hesitant to unleash it into the wild, but this is what Gravner is telling me ... it's for a wider radius than your Udine obsession ...

 

where to eat

La Subida - Restaurant 
Argine a Venco� - Restaurant, realy interesting largineavenco.it/
Osteria Altran - Restaurant, realy interesting (no web page)
 
Agli Amici -  Udine www.agliamici.it
Scabar - Trieste - fish!! www.scabar.it
 
Osteria La Subida - informal, local
Devetak - good level of Trattoria
Korsic - for a simple, home made meal, www.korsic.it/
 

 

Note that the Udine option is #135.

Note that Argine a Venco is 40 minutes from Udine.

 

GO AND REPORT BACK ! QUICKLY ! LIVES DEPEND UPON IT !



#4 Rail Paul

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Posted 26 May 2016 - 12:53 PM

The Times had a similar article last year about driving in search of "Austrian Slovenia" beyond the obvious suggestions.  I thought I had linked to it, but I don't see the article.

 

The Istrian native Lidia Bastianich has authored a few articles about farm tours, winery visits etc which could be of interest. 

 

If I have time later today, I'll take a longer look


Dreams come in all sizes, shapes, and colors.

#5 Chambolle

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Posted 26 May 2016 - 06:02 PM

If I have time later today, I'll take a longer look

 

That would be very much appreciated !

 

I did a super quick search and came up short. This article ain't it ...

 

http://www.nytimes.c...ribor.html?_r=0

 

... but friends went to a wedding in Slovenia recently and they told me that Piran is def worth a look-see ... and that the capital city of Ljubljana had a real nice vibe to it, not to mention that Movia has a real nice wine bar there ... so Chambo plans to check it out, time permitting.

 

 

eta: The NY Times is on it ! The Vander Urbani is sounding pretty darn good (and TripAdvisor says 4.5 and I really don't want to spend another frickin' second considering anything else) ... great location, near the river, rooftop pool, free bike rental and the cherry on the cake : a French chef ! And it's right next to the Movia wine bar. I could literally crawl home !

 

If I opt to do the Ljub job thang, this is def the ticket ...

 

http://www.nytimes.c...a-slovenia.html

 

 

@ADMIN : Merci for that thread name change



#6 Anthony Bonner

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Posted 02 June 2016 - 02:18 PM

That is a simply AWESOME article, Rail Paul ! You rock !

Chambo is in the process of verifying whether that guy actually knows what he is talking about. 

For most part, he's got the right wine-makers. Impressive !

If he passes inspection then that may indeed be pretty close to my Istrian itinerary ...

 

Chambo I'll be in Udine in two weeksweeks for work! Just ask around for Brunate.

 

I have NOT gotten an answer on Brunate, Bonner ! I am STILL waiting patiently ...

 

Please elaborate ! That is a direct command from the general command.

 

So chambo do you have a hotel rec in Udine for me or what

 

Chambo - any Udine adjacent reccs?

 

This info is NOT personally vouched for ... hence I am extremely hesitant to unleash it into the wild, but this is what Gravner is telling me ... it's for a wider radius than your Udine obsession ...

 

where to eat

La Subida - Restaurant 
Argine a Venco� - Restaurant, realy interesting largineavenco.it/
Osteria Altran - Restaurant, realy interesting (no web page)
 
Agli Amici -  Udine www.agliamici.it
Scabar - Trieste - fish!! www.scabar.it
 
Osteria La Subida - informal, local
Devetak - good level of Trattoria
Korsic - for a simple, home made meal, www.korsic.it/
 

 

Note that the Udine option is #135.

Note that Argine a Venco is 40 minutes from Udine.

 

GO AND REPORT BACK ! QUICKLY ! LIVES DEPEND UPON IT !

Chambo you are a gentleman and a scholar. I sent a few emails out today and will report back after dining.


"This is a battle of who blinks first, and we've cut off our eyelids"


#7 Anthony Bonner

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Posted 15 June 2016 - 01:51 PM

So I ended up going with Argine a Venco.  I actually needed to be in Buttrio which is about 20 minutes south of Udine and 20 Minutes from Venco.

 

Chambo - great work. You delivered. 

 

They offer a la carte as well as a few fixed menus. I took the main fixed menu which was five courses for 70 Euro, but they also gave me a few mid-courses as well as an incredibly generous wine pairing for 30 Euro.

 

Very seasonal, very of the place. Particular highlights included an oxtail with pea puree, yogurt and lemon balm where the herbs just made the dish, and a strawberry pasta dish that had that sort of high acidity the way a good riesling does that sets your palate up for the next course, which in this case was quail with wild chicories. It was a delightful 1-2 punch.  First course was a very delicate asparagus dish.  Only misstep to me was a calves liver dish I though was maybe a touch over cooked and spongy, and frankly too simple a prep for someone like me who isn't a liver lover. Dessert was cherries and yogurt mousse around an mint sorbet that I very much enjoyed.

 

Very small operation - three in the kitchen, two in FOH. I sampled 5 different skin contact whites with my meal, a sparkler, and a traditional collio white. Tremendously well done all around. They did bidet service in a modern way that felt informal.

 

Rooms as well - which were fine (and cheap @ 65 Eur). Didn't get a chance to sample breakfast as she started serving at 9 and I needed to be at a meeting by then.

 

Very pretty part of the world as well.


"This is a battle of who blinks first, and we've cut off our eyelids"


#8 Chambolle

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Posted 25 October 2019 - 10:39 AM

So I ended up going with Argine a Venco.  I actually needed to be in Buttrio which is about 20 minutes south of Udine and 20 Minutes from Venco


IDK if any of you were thinking of going, but Antonia Klugmann from Argine a Venco in Friuli is cooking there tomorrow. I've eaten at her restaurant outside Udine and thought it excellent and pretty interesting. No idea if it will translate to American produce, but it was great two summers ago.


FYI my Inbox today contained the following ... and I'm loving the way they crank up the price for Paris ...
 

Mercredi 6 Novembre, Virtus a l’honneur de recevoir

Antonia Klugmann,cheffe 1* de L'Argine a Vencó

Un diner unique pour lequel Antonia, Chiho et Marcelo ont imaginé un menu

en 7 services autour de créations originales.

L'occasion de découvrir la cuisine d'Antonia Klugmann,

son interprétation du territoire du Collio, entre Italie et Slovénie

et comment trois identités et cultures s'enrichissent

les unes les autres par la cuisine.


Menu 7 services : 120 € (hors boissons)



#9 Anthony Bonner

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Posted 25 October 2019 - 01:28 PM

I was there again in September. It was lovely, tho perhaps not as lovely as three years ago.


"This is a battle of who blinks first, and we've cut off our eyelids"


#10 Chambolle

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Posted 25 October 2019 - 03:36 PM

You should try La Subida resto, if you have yet to

More rustic, not-quite fine dining as per Argine but they make good believe but it’s highly worthy for its superb wine regional wine list at superb prices with a somm (owner’s son, I believe) who is very knowledgeable and even more passionate and a very enjoyable meal in that sense in the total sticks

Great place to stay as a tourist but surely not as biz person due to location ... and LACK OF WIFI in their v good cabins ... but the Osteria (which has good, cool casual food and decent BEVOG canned beers and wines too) has 24/7 outdoor WiFi ... which is no worries in June

#11 Anthony Bonner

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Posted 25 October 2019 - 05:55 PM

I've tried to stay there in the past, but didn't work out.  For business she's closer to where I need to be, although frankly its not a big diff. 

 

Beautiful part of the world. Would love to take the fam there.  


"This is a battle of who blinks first, and we've cut off our eyelids"