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The Rest of Us, Paris edition


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#166 joethefoodie

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Posted 16 February 2020 - 05:39 AM

When we get back, I’ll add to the above. I think Le Grand Bain’s only large format dish was the lamb shoulder, though there was a whole mackerel on offer in the fish section of the menu.  We did have a stunning clam dish, swimming in a fabulous Basque-ish sauce, where they were able to keep the tiny conques tender. 
 

And yes, that tongue - I ate the whole damn plate, because as I mentioned years and years ago, Significant Eater turns up her nose at tongue...any way it’s cooked. It was delicious and so unlike any I’ve had before.



#167 joethefoodie

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Posted 20 February 2020 - 08:35 PM

Maison Sota 

 

We arrived in Paris at the ungodly hour of like 6.15 AM, due to the under 6-hour flight via jet stream mentioned elsewhere. Fortunately, our airbnb had not been rented the week prior, so our great hosts allowed us to check in as early as we got there, barely daybreak...

 

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This was the second time we'd stayed in this apartment, on Rue du Temple, directly across from Square du Temple, a favorite little park.  What to do but crash, since I basically slept for about 5 minutes on the plane and it was a Sunday morning (normally, I'd have raced to the organic market on Raspail, but...).  

 

We like to head out an hour or two early before dinner, for a long walk and a short aperitif. We're always able to find a little cafe/bar near where we're headed, and this night was no different...

 

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Ricard for Significant Eater and a bio (!) Aligote for me. And then on to Sota...

 

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While it undoubtedly would've been delicious, SE is not a pigeon fan, nor a fan of so many courses, so the menu on the left it was.  Some of what we ate...

 

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The oyster underneath was quite good.  Of course I didn't take any notes, just the pix, and my memory isn't so great, but it might be a seaweed ice.

 

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Splendid.

 

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The pork chop of my dreams. Cooked just past too rare, juicy, tender and delicious. This was shared. And the heathen that I am, I picked up the bone and gnawed at it to get all the juicy little tidbits. One or two servers came over to congratulate me on that move.

 

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Maison is an interesting space - you walk in to this huge area downstairs, pretty much unused - but pretty.  Upstairs there are 4 4-tops (all of which were in use) and about a 5 or 6-seat counter, where I wanted to sit, but which was already occupied or spoken for.  So the communal table down the center of the room it was - each of use opposite the other - and the table is quite wide, allowing for lots of room.  Surrounded by 2 Japanese couples on one side, and a British and American woman on the other. You get the picture.

 

The cooking was pretty spot on - nice ingredients, great service.  A keeper.



#168 voyager

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Posted 20 February 2020 - 10:13 PM

Looks great.    Love your paperweights.


It's not my circus,

not my monkeys.


#169 Wilfrid

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Posted 20 February 2020 - 11:55 PM

Nice, and what a good location. I stayed in a rental apartment near Rue du Temple in pre-AirBnB days.

#170 Josh Karpf

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Posted Yesterday, 02:58 AM

Do Parisians dine at a reasonable hour? Our early-bird bedtime crippled our eating in Spain and Italy.

 

My nineteen-year-old Paris notes cite restaurants, but not hotels. I think my ex and I stayed in the thirteenth arrondissement but ate in the fifth.

 

Now lovely spouse and I have family friends with a perch on Île de la Cité, yet would not presume to ask to crash there.



#171 Sneakeater

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Posted Yesterday, 04:03 AM

You just have the wrong idea of what a reasonable time is.
Bar Loser

MF Old

#172 joethefoodie

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Posted Yesterday, 11:40 AM

Looks great.    Love your paperweights.

 

Not mine - I emailed the restaurant to send a copy of the menu to me, as I failed to take one myself.

 

Do Parisians dine at a reasonable hour? Our early-bird bedtime crippled our eating in Spain and Italy.

 

My nineteen-year-old Paris notes cite restaurants, but not hotels. I think my ex and I stayed in the thirteenth arrondissement but ate in the fifth.

 

Now lovely spouse and I have family friends with a perch on Île de la Cité, yet would not presume to ask to crash there.

 

I'm sure someone will correct me, but I think one change that restaurants (at least in Paris) have made is this...used to be that there would basically be one seating a night; i.e. the table was yours for the evening, and you'd come in like 8:30 - 9:30 P.M, stumble out between 11 and midnight or later.

 

Now, many places start serving at 7:30, with the hopes that they'll turn some tables, with an early seating and then one from 9 - 10 PM.  All of the reservations I made (and I had one for each night we were there) were for 8 or 8:30 (depending on our schedule the next day, like getting up early to go to the Louvre) and I'm pretty sure we were the one seating for the night. The only exception was at Le Baratin, where our reservation was made by our airbnb hostess. She called the restaurant and all they had for the night we wanted to go was 10 PM, which is too late for me to eat dinner. So we took the 7:30 they also offered. 

 

The nights we started dining at 8, there were already people dining, and they weren't tourists.

 

You just have the wrong idea of what a reasonable time is.

 

And you just might have the wrong idea about where a hat goes.



#173 joethefoodie

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Posted Yesterday, 04:01 PM

Substance

 

Substance is a fancy(ish) restaurant, in the fancy-schmancy 16ème. One knows the arrondisement is fancy-shmancy, because when you emerge from the Metro and start walking towards your destination, you might see this...

 

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This was a birthday dinner and a Monday night, so options were somewhat limited by that, but we tried to make the most of it. And we were mostly successful.

 

 


5-course discovery menu. 79 €  Food and wine pairing. € 45.     7-course carte blanche menu. 95 €  Food and wine pairing. € 55.

 

Perigord Black Truffle Supplement (6g). 18 € * 

 

ENTRÉES

Carpaccio de St Jacques, cerfeuil, compoté d’oignon oursins et vinaigrette au foin. 21€.

 

Foie gras poêlé, consommé thaï, champignons marinés, et capucines. 19€.

 

Gnocchis poêlés, cresson fermenté, condiment jaune d’œuf fumé, jus à la Morteau.16€.

 

Œuf mollet croustillant, artichauts grillés, vinaigrette sésame et combava. 18€.

 

PLATS

Encornets sautés, beurre noir au citron d’Iran, graines caramélisées, courge rôtie et marinée. 38€.

 

Pluma iberique, gremolata citron caviar, carottes fanes, condiment gingembre et harissa. 39€.

 

Tourte de gibiers à plumes, foie gras et choux fleur violet, kale et condiment coing (2pers). 96€.

 

Bar en croûte de graines, poireaux brulés, pommes de terre confites, haddock, jus herbassé. 42€.

 

Légumes de nos maraîchers, risotto de petit épeautre et citrons confits. 24€.

 

FROMAGES

Assiette du Chef. 14€

 

DESSERTS

Soufflé au chocolat Sao Tome, crumble cacao amer et crème glacée au sapin (2 pers.). 24€

 

Vacherin noix de coco, kiwi d’Ardèche et sorbet oseille.14€

 

Poires, sarrasin, crème crue et sorbet Earl Grey 15€

 

Choux, crème à la noisette du Piémont, clémentine Corse et sorbet Kalamansi.16€

 

 

Place is packed at 8:30 on a Monday. Service is, how shall I say, in the weeds? Fortunately, we had started down the block for our apéritifs. Another great old bar, where the matron and her 2 (rather obese) Yorkies were running the show. Pouring rain, all good.

 

First amuses were a couple of croquettes (ok), and then this smoked potato with roe which was great...

 

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I had the St. Jacques (might I actually think the local scallops I get are sweeter?), while Sig Eater opted for the gnocchis.

 

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The Morteau jus on these was great, as were the little pieces of piggie, but I didn't love the texture of the gnocchi - which were a little gummy. The saucing on that scallop was nice. As can be seen, lovely plating all around.

 

For her plat, a nice piece of bar...

 

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Those leeks were great too, and I probably could have eaten about 500 of those pommes.

 

Me - Pluma iberique made me happy...that skin...

 

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Moving on...

 

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And...

 

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Are we rushing here again when we return? Probably not, but for a Monday night birthday dinner, it was fun and fine. But oy - that service!



#174 joethefoodie

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Posted Today, 01:17 PM

Amarante

 

Amarante - Really fantastic classical meal with an especially delicious snail in a pesto-ey parsley butter and lamb with haricot vertes.  I think this is the sort of spot that folks on this forum mean by a bistro but its hard to tell with this crew. I wish this spot had become a staple for me sooner and its a good alternative to Paul Bert, etc.  Old school waitering and not a lot in the way of natural wine, but really just solid classics.

 

 

Amarante is a gem, a place where you really can/should and safely expand your offal appreciation.   And our "old school waiter' was delightful.  

 

As Jesikka, voyager et al. have mentioned, a gem. Cool location, too. Our great waiter reminded me of a cross between Clark Kent and Mr. Spock - he was awesome! The carte:

 

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We wanted a little snack while we were deciding what to order. This fabulous terrine hit the spot - and good bread, too.

 

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It's winter in Paris, rainy and chilly, so Significant Eater wanted soup.  Potimarron velouté with crispy pork bits was just what the doc ordered.

 

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Pour moi, that tongue did its job.

 

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It was tough deciding what mains to have. We went hearty and heavy. Madame with this veau...

 

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Insanely delicious? Yes - and that kneffe! I ordered the duck...

 

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And guess what? That skin - perfect. Inside - not cooked enough, but I suppose I could've specified.

 

Camembert au lait cru followed. And that followed by the Citron dessert.

 

Yes, worthy of a (many) repeat visit (s).



#175 Orik

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Posted Today, 01:41 PM

All food, no bullshit. Would last three seconds in NYC.
sandwiches that are large and filling and do not contain tuna or prawns

#176 joethefoodie

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Posted Today, 01:54 PM

All food, no bullshit. Would last three seconds in NYC.

 

Right. Exactly. 



#177 voyager

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Posted Today, 02:45 PM

All food, no bullshit. Would last three seconds in NYC.

Probably not,    But that waiter could take down anyone in NYC, or Paris.    Without a word.   


It's not my circus,

not my monkeys.


#178 joethefoodie

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Posted Today, 11:11 PM

 

All food, no bullshit. Would last three seconds in NYC.

Probably not,    But that waiter could take down anyone in NYC, or Paris.    Without a word.   

 

 

The whole restaurant was his - never missed a fucking beat. Chef and maybe a cook delivered a few dishes from the kitchen, but...