Substance is a fancy(ish) restaurant, in the fancy-schmancy 16ème. One knows the arrondisement is fancy-shmancy, because when you emerge from the Metro and start walking towards your destination, you might see this...
This was a birthday dinner and a Monday night, so options were somewhat limited by that, but we tried to make the most of it. And we were mostly successful.
5-course discovery menu. 79 € Food and wine pairing. € 45. 7-course carte blanche menu. 95 € Food and wine pairing. € 55.
Perigord Black Truffle Supplement (6g). 18 € *
Carpaccio de St Jacques, cerfeuil, compoté d’oignon oursins et vinaigrette au foin. 21€.
Foie gras poêlé, consommé thaï, champignons marinés, et capucines. 19€.
Gnocchis poêlés, cresson fermenté, condiment jaune d’œuf fumé, jus à la Morteau.16€.
Œuf mollet croustillant, artichauts grillés, vinaigrette sésame et combava. 18€.
Encornets sautés, beurre noir au citron d’Iran, graines caramélisées, courge rôtie et marinée. 38€.
Pluma iberique, gremolata citron caviar, carottes fanes, condiment gingembre et harissa. 39€.
Tourte de gibiers à plumes, foie gras et choux fleur violet, kale et condiment coing (2pers). 96€.
Bar en croûte de graines, poireaux brulés, pommes de terre confites, haddock, jus herbassé. 42€.
Légumes de nos maraîchers, risotto de petit épeautre et citrons confits. 24€.
Assiette du Chef. 14€
Soufflé au chocolat Sao Tome, crumble cacao amer et crème glacée au sapin (2 pers.). 24€
Vacherin noix de coco, kiwi d’Ardèche et sorbet oseille.14€
Poires, sarrasin, crème crue et sorbet Earl Grey 15€
Choux, crème à la noisette du Piémont, clémentine Corse et sorbet Kalamansi.16€
Place is packed at 8:30 on a Monday. Service is, how shall I say, in the weeds? Fortunately, we had started down the block for our apéritifs. Another great old bar, where the matron and her 2 (rather obese) Yorkies were running the show. Pouring rain, all good.
First amuses were a couple of croquettes (ok), and then this smoked potato with roe which was great...
I had the St. Jacques (might I actually think the local scallops I get are sweeter?), while Sig Eater opted for the gnocchis.
The Morteau jus on these was great, as were the little pieces of piggie, but I didn't love the texture of the gnocchi - which were a little gummy. The saucing on that scallop was nice. As can be seen, lovely plating all around.
For her plat, a nice piece of bar...
Those leeks were great too, and I probably could have eaten about 500 of those pommes.
Me - Pluma iberique made me happy...that skin...
Are we rushing here again when we return? Probably not, but for a Monday night birthday dinner, it was fun and fine. But oy - that service!